New Product: Complete Oil Pan Spacer Kit
#94
I'm just jealous he can pull the motor out and flip it over and work un-obstructed. Pulling the oil pan while laying under the car is near the top of my list of "don't want to do again.."
and that his motor is spotless...
and that his motor is spotless...
#96
Developer
Thread Starter
we also had to "groove" the oil pan and grind down the mini starter to make it fit on the lemons racer and the widow...
Why are the bore holes so large? They appear to be much larger in diameter than the studs. Is that for a sleeve that limits compression of the cork gasket?
Keep in mind the spacer does not have to be tight up against the stud. There is no benefit in that.
#98
Rennlist Member
people always mock what they dont understand, so no surprise there.
Now, back to the who-Invented the pan spacer discussion.
By the way, do we really have a windage problem? Anyone have a borascope / window in the crankcase, video of the crank at speed, to verify the theory?
I should add, my prefence to amsoil and subscribing to the theory that I have a bunch of oil flinging around my engine bottom end that might help longevity, is only a theory proven only by the life and performance of my engines over the past 15 years (and lack of funds to try anything new)
Last edited by mark kibort; 02-08-2010 at 06:49 PM.
#99
Drifting
#100
Team Owner
Carl instead of gluing the spacer to the pan with JB weld I would suggest that you use Hondabond, semi permeable sealing compound, if the pan gets damaged then the spacer can be removed easily, the JB weld may be more permanent .
Jb weld may also wind up sealing the studs to the pan.
When its fitted wet.
Plus if any JB weld cracks off into the pan it may get sucked into the oil pump.
I would also suggest to use a silicone pan gasket, it is a better design
Jb weld may also wind up sealing the studs to the pan.
When its fitted wet.
Plus if any JB weld cracks off into the pan it may get sucked into the oil pump.
I would also suggest to use a silicone pan gasket, it is a better design
#101
Rennlist Member
thats what I was thinking too. But, i wonder if there are thngs that the header will be closer to, that might be a heat issue. I was just looking under mine today. .5" would put the pan below the swaybar, which itself, has some nasty hits. (but in the 10+ years of racing, no damage, just scrapes)
#102
Developer
Thread Starter
Sure. Hondabond or Yamabond would also do a good job.
...only depending on the application. As I posted earlier, the silicone gasket is too pliable and has to wide of a cross-section for boosted applications under extreme use (racing).
NA motors in street driving or DE days? Sure, the silicone gasket is a good choice. We sell it.
I would also suggest to use a silicone pan gasket, it is a better design
NA motors in street driving or DE days? Sure, the silicone gasket is a good choice. We sell it.
#103
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Mark--
Add skid rails with replaceable HDHMWLPE strips on it. It's what the big guys do when they adjust the car too low.
Add skid rails with replaceable HDHMWLPE strips on it. It's what the big guys do when they adjust the car too low.
#105
Rennlist Member