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Well I spent the day with "Richard" Wolff and we pulled the engine from the 84 lemons racer.....& we found the #6 was GONE...just a smidge of bearing shell left....#2 wasn't much better but both half's were there....#6 was SO loose you could wiggle it BY HAND....watch the video....its amazing that engine ran at all....
Sorry to hear about the distruction but as I said I will donate a 4.7 to the project. Maybe if we can get it to hold some oil it will last the weekend.
So ITB should increase the top rpm power, but isn't that going to break motors faster. Wouldn't a rev limiter be more useful? or a giant accusump type thing?
A LeMons rebuild is a bit different from your normal rebuild. Find another engine with a hole through the side, scavenge the bearings from it, install the best ones, button it up and go! But I do recommend fixing the leaks while you're in there.
A LeMons rebuild is a bit different from your normal rebuild. Find another engine with a hole through the side, scavenge the bearings from it, install the best ones, button it up and go! But I do recommend fixing the leaks while you're in there.
It's not tha teasy, you can't just scavange the bearings. They spun and both the crank and con rods have to be re sized. Material has deposited in both so they are over sized now. Alos, if you find a block with a hole, it likely had a spun bearing too that caused the rod to fail so this makes it useless for this.
The pic of the Sawzall in the background says it all about Lemons racing.
I would take some crocus cloth to the crank, find a decent used bearing, grind the rod cap a bit and size the rod end. It's the cheapest way to go, if the crank journal isn't completely hashed. You can even shave a bit of bearing off the end to make up for clearance. More labor, less materials.
..........I would take some crocus cloth to the crank, find a decent used bearing, grind the rod cap a bit and size the rod end. It's the cheapest way to go, if the crank journal isn't completely hashed. You can even shave a bit of bearing off the end to make up for clearance. More labor, less materials.
I'm sorry but that would never hold up. The bearing clearances have to be tight and uniform or else oil pressure will go and then bye bye bearing. Either they are all replaced with some good used parts (crank & con rod) or they need to be sent to a machine shop for a proper re grind.
I'm sorry but that would never hold up. The bearing clearances have to be tight and uniform or else oil pressure will go and then bye bye bearing. Either they are all replaced with some good used parts (crank & con rod) or they need to be sent to a machine shop for a proper re grind.
Actually, I've done it before on a Fiat engine. If you have plastigauge and access to a rod sizer it's pretty easy. The point is moot because the crank is toast anyway.
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