Finally selling my 928 GTS project car
11-06-2009 | 11:08 PM
#106
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Beverly Hills, CA
Ryan,
I mean no offence by this, but you really have no idea what you are talking about. I was not aware that there are alot of shops down there that do this type of work incorrectly. However, when welding two pieces together, when done properly the orginonal metal maintains 100% of its strength, the welded part gets slightly more. From the sounds of where this was done I would not be concerned about the crumple zone. I say that as it will crumple into the engine transfering the impact through to the rear before the area the weld was performed on would really be affected.
But if you HONESTLY believe that it is unsafe to drive a car that has been welded together, then I recommend that you start walking! ALL cars are welded together. Most of the 928 is SPOT welded together. This is a far far weaker weld than something that has been MIG or TIG welded together.
I do think it would be a good idea to have it put on a frame machine to see if it is straight, there is no question about that. But to say that the car is garbage and that it should never be driven again without knowing ANY of the real details such as where and how it was done is simply just ignorant in my books.
Now I think that you should also go and see a ton of restored race cars. Most have been crashed, put into a wall at very high speeds. And all of them that have had this happen have had a section of the car cut out, and a donor section from a new car welded in. All the racing bodies permit deem this to be acceptable, but perhaps you would care to get in touch with them and set them straight on this matter.
You might not approve of a car that has had this repair, and that is your decision to not buy a car because it has had something like this done. BUT for you to come down on this car like the hand of god demanding that it be parted and is unsafe to drive without ANY proof is a little childish IMO.
I hope that the OP gets the most for his car, but I fear that most are correct in their assesment, present state it is worth more in parts than whole. Whole I would say $5-8k is about right.
I mean no offence by this, but you really have no idea what you are talking about. I was not aware that there are alot of shops down there that do this type of work incorrectly. However, when welding two pieces together, when done properly the orginonal metal maintains 100% of its strength, the welded part gets slightly more. From the sounds of where this was done I would not be concerned about the crumple zone. I say that as it will crumple into the engine transfering the impact through to the rear before the area the weld was performed on would really be affected.
But if you HONESTLY believe that it is unsafe to drive a car that has been welded together, then I recommend that you start walking! ALL cars are welded together. Most of the 928 is SPOT welded together. This is a far far weaker weld than something that has been MIG or TIG welded together.
I do think it would be a good idea to have it put on a frame machine to see if it is straight, there is no question about that. But to say that the car is garbage and that it should never be driven again without knowing ANY of the real details such as where and how it was done is simply just ignorant in my books.
Now I think that you should also go and see a ton of restored race cars. Most have been crashed, put into a wall at very high speeds. And all of them that have had this happen have had a section of the car cut out, and a donor section from a new car welded in. All the racing bodies permit deem this to be acceptable, but perhaps you would care to get in touch with them and set them straight on this matter.
You might not approve of a car that has had this repair, and that is your decision to not buy a car because it has had something like this done. BUT for you to come down on this car like the hand of god demanding that it be parted and is unsafe to drive without ANY proof is a little childish IMO.
I hope that the OP gets the most for his car, but I fear that most are correct in their assesment, present state it is worth more in parts than whole. Whole I would say $5-8k is about right.
What your talking about is how a professional repairs a car
A shell is made up of probably 100 different small steel panels all bonded together
BUT when people crash a car and they cut a clip off. The just take a saw to the damn thing, then cut the same spot out of the donor car and weld the thing up in one big seam. The people that do this kinda BS work, DO NOT pull apart each piece of steel with spot weld cutters, and then reassemble it and weld it all back together as the factory did. People do this on $100,000 muscle cars to save panels and crap. They do not do this kind of work on hack jobs which is what i imagine this car is.
So please i know what your talking about, i know how a shell is constructed, but hack jobs are there for a reason. TO MAKE MONEY! And they way you make money, is not spending allot, not allot of time, not allot on tools and not allot on parts.
11-07-2009 | 04:17 PM
#107
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 598
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From: Philadelphia, PA , USA The Great Fighting City of Brotherly Love
One ride should reveal much about this girl. I think $20k is cool if the car runs good and is tight- shows no ill manners at the grip threshold. Good Luck James.... I'll see the car asap.
Also, frame measurements should be taken to compare with the OE specs.... to see how close/far we are on accurate suspension points.
Also, frame measurements should be taken to compare with the OE specs.... to see how close/far we are on accurate suspension points.
11-07-2009 | 10:35 PM
#110
Rocket Pilot
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From: gettysburg pa.
James I will honor my original offer if you should decide to accept it. That is as long as you are sure the LH/EZK weren't compromised as I know we had talked on the phone about it and you said your mechanic had soldered the chip/s in. If you help and are willing to hand me the wrenches I will get her going for you, and maybe even donate my fee back to you as a goodwill gesture. I wouldn't be able to get to it for at least 3-4 weeks though as I am buried and almost out of shop space. Let me know James.
Kevin
Kevin
11-07-2009 | 10:50 PM
#111
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From: Tampa, Florida
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11-08-2009 | 12:26 AM
#114
Under the Lift
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From: Buckeye, AZ
11-08-2009 | 08:50 AM
#115
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Joined: Mar 2006
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I had the computers tested 2x. Once by Jim R and once by tim murphy when i had him install the chips for me. I went out yesterday and installed a new battery and the car wont start it just cranks. bypassed the ig mon sys relay with a 3 way wire. I went from runningon 4 cyl. to car not starting at all. Kevin, i appreciate your offer but, just so you know. the s/c is completely installed. its the running on 4 cyl and now the no start issue thsat i need to deal with.
11-08-2009 | 09:17 AM
#116
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Johnson City, TN
Keep the faith, you'll work it out.
Believe me, I understand the job thing, too, it really clouds the whole picture when working through stuff. What was minor stuff one day gets a whole lot bigger and more urgent the next.
Don't these later cars have some kind of LED signals to narrow down source of 4 cyl operation?
Believe me, I understand the job thing, too, it really clouds the whole picture when working through stuff. What was minor stuff one day gets a whole lot bigger and more urgent the next.
Don't these later cars have some kind of LED signals to narrow down source of 4 cyl operation?
11-08-2009 | 09:24 AM
#117
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yes but the car has to be running to see the light in the relay. last time it was green and i had no spark from the drivers side coil. I swapped the ignition modules in the front of the car but that didnt change anything. that was a month ago. I also swapped coils and that didnt change anything either. Now i need to figure out why the car wont start at all. any suggestions?
11-08-2009 | 07:49 PM
#120
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 9,337
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From: Austin, TX
Well done...now a touch of tuning that maybe someone here can help with and your car will be worth MUCH more than it was NOT RUNNING!
Glad to hear that... btw, I am with you on the no job front... there are a BUNCH of us here looking for work these days.
Glad to hear that... btw, I am with you on the no job front... there are a BUNCH of us here looking for work these days.