mark kibort

I tracked down the two wires with the diodes attached to the seat belt warning delay control unit. I guess that is up in the top of the pod? Im only looking at the wiring diagram, but its strange that the two wires grey/red , grey/black are tapped into. they are then tied together after the diodes and then one wire goes to the alpine alarm set up. anyway, because they are taps, it should be easy to just gut the attaching wires. the others two red and black off the ignition are taps and interrupts, so that is straight forward as well.

I also found out there was a strange wire that was manually re-routed on the holbert car. found out that it was tied into the kick-down circuit, and that has no bearing on the manual cars, right? (as i verified this with a continuity test on the kickdown relay, which I have never run anyway, so it should be fine).


anyone have a factory diagnostic plug I can have ? I found the wire bundle for this all taped up and disconnected, for tuning with shark tuner. Ill just have to wire it together.



Also,

mark kibort

put another day into the potental racer.

Got the headers on. I forgot how hard those nasty things are to put on. recommend the shorty rachet 13mm wrenches next time. for sure, loosen the engine mount bolts and lift engine about 1".
Got the alternator console on with power steerng pump on. mounted the exhaust system as well.
attached the clutch line, and installed the slave. Installed all the brake lines and brake calipers.
Here is the issue I ran into:

I wanted to get all the old nasty fluid out of the system before I attached them to the brake lines, so I connected the rear lines and left the front lines wide open. I put on a power bleader and forced out the fluid . it started coming out of only the passenger side first, not the driver side. when it got blue from the new fluid, I closed that side off and tried to do the driver side. It was not coming out. I pushed the pedal but nothing came out. when I pushed really hard, it squirted out. then pumped the brakes and got all the gold dirty fluid out util it got blue. for some reason though, with the power bleader attached, it didnt force the fluid out unless the brake pedal was depressed.
clutch was similar . the power bleeder did dribble the fluid out until it turned blue and then of course, the pedal just falls to the floor. an hour later, there was 1/4pedal, but it didnt have any chance of being a real pedal. master cylinder issues for brakes, master for clutch? ABS clogged?
thoughts?

thanks,

Mark

Whats next? get the car started. install ECUs, fuel lines , pump, filter, radiator and hoses. Then, finish the gutting, get the cage in and pain. Sounds simple, right? yeah, right. what a mess!

chewy8000

We use alot of gearwrench tools on our race cars for tricky spots. They make some pretty interesting stuff for those hard to reach places.

Jadz928

You really should replace the original MC if you plan to race it.

mark kibort

It sure seems funky, as now the pressure bleeder pushes fluid out the passenger side, and pushing the pedal pushes it out the passneger side as well. the driver side, nothing happens. in fact, now pushing the brakes doesnt even stop the tire when my son spins it. Something is clogged. before, at least it would stop the tire, and even not fully release the brakes on the driver side. of course there is air still in the lines by removing and replacing the lines as they attach to the hard lines. Hopefully, its the master cylinder. the clutch slave and master are separate circuits, right? they are not working too well, but now the pedal comes all the way back, but the clutch pedal feels real spongy, but clutch action is happening.

anyway, attached all the grounds to the fuse panel. almost forgot that the main positive terminal goes to the starter too, so connected that. connected the battery, and the dash lit up!!!!!! wooo Hoooo! I even hit the starter for a second and it works fine. sounds good! Now, I need to hook up the computers fuel lines and pump and see if this baby runs.

mk


mk

Jadz928

Right. Alright man, you got dash!

SharkSkin

This issue is completely unrelated to the master cylinder, as I mentioned in the other thread that you started specifically for this topic.

mark kibort

I thought it was the master. Ill have to re-read your post. I even printed it out.

Thanks for the help.

so, you think its more of a line or ABS controller issue?

Ill go back to the other thread and discuss there, if thats ok.

Thanks again,

Mk

mark kibort

Ok, I got the fuel system on, jumped the fuel pump relay to pressurize the system after first seeing fuel flow out of the main lines at the fuel rail, and after a full draining of the fuel tank and a filter change.

Now, I installed the computers and double checked the wiring and gave the previously running engine from the wreck, ignition! nothing. It cranks over, but no pre start buz of the fuel pump, no spark.

am i forgetting a key ground? could one of the wire taps at the ignition from the alarm removal, keep the computers from firing up? at the ignition, the alarm stystem that I removed had only 2 wires tapped into the ignition key bundle. one was a tap. (so ignoring it should be ok) and the other, was a cut of one of the main red wires, and it branched it off into two wires. connecting them together, should bring back that connection. No other connections are see, unless they are in the fuse, relay backplane.
Is there a green wire that I am missing? (I think that was only on the 84s and earlier ) the wiring all looks clean, and the harness and computers worked before. any ideas?
do the computers need to be installed for proper grounding? I feel the ignition X relay clicking with the key being turned on. I dont feel the LH or fuel pump relay, clicking , even when he engine is tuned over.
no voltage at the coil, even when cranking (Pos. and Neg. ) ternminals. Igniters? something possible with the alarm wires Ive cut off the main system,although most all look like they donot.

Thanks,

Mark

danglerb

The "green wire" for the newer cars is the crank position sensor on top of the bellhousing.

mark kibort

I'm trying to figure out what little wire has been not connected. Its a little frustrating, as everything is connected as it should be. I pulled the engine out and it has been put in using all the same components, BUTnot the same fuse panel and pod. Any thoughs on where to start? what lights up the LH box and then gets the fuel pump to buss when you turn the key like I remember it doing when it all worked?
out come the wiring diagrams again and the fluke meter! Ahhhhh!!

mk

mark kibort

no power to the LH relay, but some to the ezk relay when switched from the ign key.

there is also two full bundles missing down at the lower wiring level. (all those big connectors down low with all the wires, named A - Y. L and R are missing. anyone know what they are for?

John Speake

Mark, you should have 12v battery volts on one side of the battery contacts of both the LH and EZk relays. When igntion is switched on, both those relay should energise.

The EZK relay is energised by one side of the coil being supplied with igntion switched 12v, the other side obviously is always connected to ground.

The coli of the LH relay has unswitched 12v on one side, and the other side is grounded by pin 21 of the LH ECU when igntion is switched on.

mark kibort

It looks like the the ezk gets switched on by the ignition, I have to see what pin, and then the LH is not getting switched on . the right side pin is hot for both with or without the ignition on, but the left side turns on with ign on the ezk, and nothing is turned on for the LH relay. from the drawings, the Ezk might be turned on by the low current circuit on the fuel pump, or visa versa. t then also runs the coils, igniters. the LH seems to be turned on by the computer, as one side gives the LH computer unswitched 12v , and a secondary either sinks or sourses 12v to the LH computer to turn it on. Im having a hard time understanding the current flow of the curcuits. I wonder where the issue could be? where does the ingnition come into play and is there a pin on the ECU LH that could be trace to see if it is getting interrupted by something left over from the alarm removal.

everyone says that the crank position sensor is key, but it is new and untouched since it ran, just before the engine pull. It just plugs into the harness which is being used again. the only variable here is the ignition system and the fuse panel.

thanks for the help.

mk

John Speake

I explained above that the EZK relay in energised just with igntion switched 12v, nothing complicated or anything to do with the fuel pump relay, which is energised by the LH ECU once it receives rpm pulses on pin 1.

Also see above for how the LH relay should be energised. If your LH relay is not energised when ignition is switched on, then first check there is 12v on one of the contacts and also on one side of the coil of the LH relay.

If that's OK, then check when the EZK relay is energised that you get 12v at pin 35 of the LH ECU.
This 12v supply comes from the EZK relay and is the main 12v feed that activates the LH ECU

Also check pins 5,6,& 17 of the LH ECU have a good ground connection

Let us know what you find.