mark kibort

thanks. Yes, doing things during the breaks and when the wife is out doing things. the front fenders are the easiest part with the 9.5s and 10s with the 8 and 7.5 backspacing. all you need is a forceful baseball bat roll with 275s. this part is what im the most proud of , as it would easily be as good a technique to be used on a valuable perfect show car, GTS or anyother 928.

mark kibort

ha ha. nope, those are the "MK" light covers. (as anderson called them) not much damage on them from the wreck. they were shot out like frisbees at the time of impact. fog lights are real. glad I never installed the good lenses I bought from someone on this list( i forgot) But, now they have come in handy!

It feels just like my old car now. all the power, more for some reason and it tracks perfectly and all Ive done is correct the toe by my alignment technique at home. the camber is near stock though, so that will have to be changed, but rear toe is near 0 and that seems to make it run faster and handle better. got to install the swaybars though, havent dont that yet.

actually, 305s on the 11s has been on the 8" backspacing, plus the 1/2" spacing. up front 70.5" wide at the tire edge and at the rear, near 73.5 in the rear.

the baseball bat in the rear is the key, and keeping the bad vertical as someone powers the car back and forward. still more to go and some fine tuning at the body shop when paint time comes.

I just got back from a real drive on the highway. its real fast and drives great. brakes perfect, power good, no leaks, no mroe oil in the water, and visa versa, as the radiator issue is fixed. took the rest of all the insulation out this morning as well, so it is ready for the cage now!

Cage time!!!

blau928

Hey MK,

I will need your help with your special "rolling technique" I have Toyo 305's now, but want to fit 335's back there.. I think the "mini flares you did are great.!

Cheers,

mark kibort

you should have seen them when I stopped at a point that 305s would have fit without rubbing! they looked perfect with the spacers, but they rubbed. but, without the spacers, they didnt and the flare was subtle and smooth, with no problems. when I started to make the move to go 1" wider, thats when it got a little like, "pre-body work". but, its certainly good looking enough for a rough race car, and when we paint it, it will look great.

Let me know when you are around and we can move the fenders out a bit. all you really need is about 1/4" for the 335s if they are on 11s. more if the both are on 12s

mk

blau928

I will definitely let you know once I get all the other stuff installed.. I have 12's in the back, and 9.5's in the front.. Once I get all the brake setups sorted, I will mount the wheels etc and get you to help me roll the fenders etc..

Thanks..!

mark kibort

UPDATE: Been working doing some minor projects every weekend.
I got the car on the Hunter machine today and got it aligned, just like the holbert car was, but with closer to 0 toe in the rear. camber is the same , 2.0 rear and 1.6 degrees rear to front.
sway bar is mounted and ride hight is set. 142mm rear and 112mm front

I bought a few gallons of distilled water, put some soap and locally rinced the overflow bottle and then when it was clear, drained the entire system and refilled with distilled water (for the 3rd time) it almost looks perfect, but still has a few oil specs floating around. I might have to do it one more time before I add water weter and a little antifreeze.

sunroof delete has started and Ill see if I can get most of it removed so I dont have to do a complete roof removal. I have a few ideas there. Im having a great time driving it around with it having a large sunroof that is perminantely open.

I used the 15ohm resistor trick to fake out the 3rd brake light so that warning wont come on when I hit the brakes. I measured about .72amps running through it, so that seems to be enough to keep the warning away. it looks like a big, ceramic 50watt type, so it will work as a fix.

the car is running great. very solid, and the chassis feels much better. from the ride hight settings vs where they were with the holbert car, i think the holbert car chassis was a little tweaked from the start.

Cage is going in at the end of the month.

MK

S4ordie

Mark sounds like great progress. Got any pics?

mark kibort

Its amazing to think about how this project starteed out. If it wasnt for Ed and Mark Anderson, I would probably just have an engine and drivetrain sitting on the floor of my garage right now. (and the help with all the guys at 928intl that Sharktoberfest weekend!)

yes, Ill have some pictures up this week. with all the major stuff done, sans cage and paint, my car is back!


mk

Aspkiller

When I put my sunroof back in after removing the inner roof skin, I bolted it in, rather than welding it. Any time the car isn't subject to racing rules it can be driven open, letting fresh air in and hot air out. Like you said, it's a great way to go. It's also another way to get out of the car when it's in the trailer. But, be careful sitting on the roof as it's easy to dent without the inner reinforcements.

mark kibort

Thanks. I also did a version of this with my 84 racer 10 years ago, and bolted the semi stripped sunroof into the remaining structure with L brackets. However, the stock sunroof, weighs about 20 lbs. its really heavy. a cut out piece of the non-sunroof roof weighs only a couple of lbs. and all that structure will be removed as well. the trick is finding a piece of steel or CF to cover the hole, and find out what the racing rules are for a sunroof cover. can it be just screwed in place, or does it have to be welded? do you need a cross bar in the cage on the roof to make up for their being a hole there?

Ill have to check.

mk

Aspkiller

My car carries an SCCA logbook with the sunroof having two 3/8" prongs (for lack of a better term) welded to the sunroof panel that insert into the forward portion of the main roof and rests on two perches on the sides. it then bolts from the top, down into a nut welded into a post on a piece of my cage that connects the main hoop and the forward windshield hoop. Pretty easy to take in and out and it doesn't rattle around. It won't keep rain completely out, but then I don't leave the car out. Still fine for wet track days.

We believe it also conforms to all of NASA's rules. No idea about PCA as they don't much care for chevy motors.

IcemanG17

the lemons racer has a stock sunroof roof...with everything removed and an aluminum panel riveted in place....works just fine....I'm sure removing the whole roof and installing a new skin is the lightest way to go....

mark kibort

Here is what it looks like, in gutted, but not painted and caged. Its almost ready to race!

mark kibort

Cage going in today at Impact Engineering.

http://impact-engineering.com/

on the way to work, (yes, took the car to work today) I did the 60-100 test, because every time I do it, the tests give back some AMAZING times. today, near 4 seconds flat. .5 to .7 seconds than my normal time 4.5 to 4.7seconds) with the holbert car set up. (old stock 5 liter times were in the 5.7sec range). Im wondering if the knock sensor is now working due to the engine removal and install process, or if the electrical system its mated to is better, as well as the only major difference as being newer ignition coils. In any event, I was able to turn a 5.2 60-100mph in 4th gear too!!! (usually, I do the tests in 3rd, to near 6000rpm at 100mph). Im almost temped to do a dyno run just to see!

mk

IcemanG17

Its WEIGHT.......it will be interesting to see the times with the cage in....did you weigh the car before the cage...that way you can get 100% accurate weight of how much the cage weighs....

Lemons is a touch under 2800 empty...but thats with an auto, blowerfan and wipers