Bill Ball

Some pics from Friday. I didn't get to participate much that day and none on Saturday or Sunday, so I'm glad to hear Mark K is home with a new racer. I saw him and a few others plugging away through the daunting task on completing the swap on Saturday. Man, that's a whole lot of work.

Anyway, here are some pics of getting the crippled hulk onto the lift with the aid of a forklift, trying to extract the motor which required a lot of heavy pounding and pry-barring, finally dropping the entire drivetrain as a unit, separating the motor and hauling the empty tub out into the yard.

You can see form these pics, Mark A did a whole lot of the work, flying around the room wielding an airgun, prybar, forklift or whatever was needed, and you can gather from Mark K's comments that this pace continued Saturday and Sunday despite all the other things going on at Sharktoberfest that required his attention. BIG KUDOS TO MARK ANDERSON AGAIN! This is just another of many examples of his unmatched generosity.

rawky

So how much of the Original Holbert car is in this new racer?

mark kibort

Thanks Bill! Great shots. I was so wrapped up in the project I only took one the final day as I was leaving ! Even the trailer effort was a stumbling block.
How do you think we got the car up on the trailer. it was only mark and me and no brakes at all on the car. We used a tiny winch mark had, and a long post hole bar to secure it on the trailer. It couldnt budge it by itself, but with the handy forklift, we were able to pull it up the ramps until the winch could do the rest. Dont know how Im going to get it off the trailer, but thats a project for later tonight.

mk

the flyin' scotsman

Great job folks............hopefully the Kibort racer will rise once again from the ashes.


In the past I've used a synch block (pulley) chained to the front of the trailer then with a truck with winch mounted on the front bumper and parked at 90 degress to the front of the trailer feed the winch cable to the block then onto the car. Slowly loosen the cable and the car will roll off.

DR

Mark,

Thanks for sending me my present! You freaked Jeannie out when we got a package with RA# 666 on it! Too funny!!

BTW, when you get the time if you could send me a brief "History" of the races you ran etc when using that. I plan to make a nice display plaque for it. Also if you can send me your favorite high rez pic of the Holbert car on the track it would help a lot.

Thanks again and best of luck with the new racer, it looks like Mark and the gang have you off to a great start!!! If you plan to run my brace on the new racer let me know and I will send you another one.. that is still in one piece.. Oh, and of course the same price as the last one

mark kibort

Thanks Dave! Actually, I could use another one too! It was a great product and for all the racing that car has done, it looked the same as the day I got it, right up until that little bump 7 years later! Anyway, I would absolutely love to run another one!

Ill send you a couple pics. Want one of the trophy pictures too?

Ill put some things together and sent it out.

Tell jeannie, sorry!

Take care,

Mark

FlyingDog

This is some pretty inspiring stuff. My project has been on hold for months and I have been strongly considering selling it. Maybe I'll need to rethink that now that I'm living the single life again.

Mark Anderson

Well it has been a very long week for me. Cleaning up for Sharktoberfest is always a well needed but large task. I was happy to particiapate in Marks project and lend a hand where I have some experience. I'm pretty sure Dr. Rob Edwards won't be putting a scalpel in my hands anytime soon but I am at home taking apart a 928.
Again it was my pleasure to assist and work with so many good people in the group.

IcemanG17

Great to see MK is that much closer to getting back on track...... I look forward to racing with him next year.....(assuming my 928 runs)

mark kibort

I started out today, to just roll the fenders to get the tires and wheels on the car, to save some room in the garage. I ended up doing the full flaring, even with the .5" spacers. they will need some body shop work, but the bulk is done . Without the spacers, I made them fit pretty well, but then had to take the extra steps to get the same track width as before.

I also ran into a snag. I just had to end up with a chassis that was outfited with a security system James Bond coudn't break into. Was this guy keeping the crown jewels inside?

Anyway, I see a few interups on wires that probably kill the engine or ignition. the yellow the red wire with interrups? just reconnect them? (actually the red wire looks like a tap and the yellows look like an interrupt.)
what about that white wire with diodes connecting to the 2 wire bundle leading up the console pod? are those just taps? (cut the diodes and wires off and be on my way?)
what are the two boxes under the footwell ? ABS? and cruise control? which is which and what can be removed.
what about that little magnetic thing with a black wire on it that was on the floor? part of the alpine security system, yes, but what does it do?
what is the little alpine sensor or square thing behind the clutch and brake pedal? its pretty firmly attached and we didnt see anything around there on the inside when the engine was out and were were scowering the engine bay.

after i couldnt figure these things out, I wrestled the dash out and thats a big start when getting all that street junk out of the car. anyone need anything in this area? AC stuff, thermostate stuff, glove box, etc?

mk

mark kibort

Here are a few shots of the Phoenix with the 275s and 305s on the car after some fender massaging.

all you need is a baseball bat, a jack, some gloves and 275s with spacers to do the task, and then the 305s to finish the job.

Mrmerlin

Under the dead pedal are the boxes for the " I " warning system, the box thats just above the hood release is for the ABS.
The little black boxes attached to the floor and the firewall may be either motion or sound sensors for the alarm.
I would wait on disconnecting these wires till you get the car running, you might just wind up .disconnecting something that will stop the car from running and once thats done it will be hard to figure out where the power cut is BTDT.
IIRC the tach must send/recieve a signal to the LH and if this wire is damaged then the car will look like LH failure

mark kibort

Thanks!

I think ive narrowed down the entire bundle to just a few. wires that actually are connected still. some have been cut, but those would have terminated in the doors.(large diameter red wires).

the red wire in the picture clearly looks to have been cut with 2 yellow wires spliced in (thats why i said "interrupt"). the other red, just has a wire tapped into it. probably an ignition "On" source.

the only mystery here are the two wires tapped into two separate wires, with the two diodes (looks like) they are spliced together after the diodes and run to the alpine security control boxes.

One of those boxes is the radar controller too. this guy had everything on it.

If that one pic is that of a motion sensor, it sure is nailed down to the firewall. I cant budge it, so maybe its bolted on the engine side, but I dont remember seeing anything there with the engine out.

Thanks again,

Mk


the

bcdavis

With alarm systems, if you start at the brain box, you can usually just track down each and every wire and disconnect it. When you trace it back to the stock wiring, you should be able to see where they tapped into it.

mark kibort

Im also wondering about the factory alarm system. could there be some gotchas there?

as far as the Alpine system goes. I feel pretty confident about the connections at the ignition. the ones near the outside of the pod have me a little puzzled, but they do look like taps, so I should be able to disconnect.

Thanks,

Mk