My new OB / Racer in the making
01-21-2010, 12:28 AM
#91
Race Director
01-21-2010, 10:32 AM
#93
If you are worried about all the "chrome" bling unbecoming of a 928.... you can also get the springs in race blue 
The ones on my track car are actual hypercoils (not as cheap as Adam's set but both front and rear springs with associated aluminum cones/bits were around $200 delivered from the same place).
The ones on my track car are actual hypercoils (not as cheap as Adam's set but both front and rear springs with associated aluminum cones/bits were around $200 delivered from the same place).
01-21-2010, 01:31 PM
#94
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
One thing that I noticed when assembling my springs with the stock hardware (which I may have to do over again). I had to invert the lower adjustment collars because the the ridge that centers the lower perch was too wide for the 2.5" spring. I didn't really think too much about the bottom of the spring wandering around. Ken Osage saw that I was doing the same thing on the fronts and suggested that I have the ridge bevelled to center the spring, so I'm looking into having it done. You think the spring would chatter pretty hard against the shock body without it? I can't tell if your adjustment collars have a centering ridge on them Tom, do they?
BTW, pretty meaty spacers there dude.
BTW, pretty meaty spacers there dude.
01-21-2010, 02:55 PM
#95
I encountered that same problem, however, about 1/2 hour each on the grinding wheel and i was able to make the stock adj. rings "just" fit into the spring to hold it. If Ken can get his uncle to take off just a bit, probably the easiest/nicest looking way to go...
01-22-2010, 10:57 PM
#96
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Thread Starter
So here is Ken Osage's solution to using stock adjustment collars with the 2.5" springs.
Machine the collar so the spring fits over the ridge, and add a set screw. I found some nylon studs that are smaller than the I.D. of the set screw hole and am going to cut a piece to sandwich between the set screw and the threads on the shock body so that the set screw doesn't damage them.
Front shocks will be going in this weekend. Then its time to set the ride height, pull out the plasma cutter and do the Red front fender split.
Machine the collar so the spring fits over the ridge, and add a set screw. I found some nylon studs that are smaller than the I.D. of the set screw hole and am going to cut a piece to sandwich between the set screw and the threads on the shock body so that the set screw doesn't damage them.
Front shocks will be going in this weekend. Then its time to set the ride height, pull out the plasma cutter and do the Red front fender split.
04-03-2010, 09:06 PM
#97
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So what's new? How is she running? Did you ever get her to a dyno? I have been waiting for a update!
I was also wondering how that euro swap is coming along too. Dyno etc?
Stephen
I was also wondering how that euro swap is coming along too. Dyno etc?
Stephen
04-04-2010, 07:30 PM
#98
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Thread Starter
Hey Stephen,
Sorry, no major updates. Had to replace the CV boots in preparation of our next track day in May. Still haven't gotten her to the dyno yet. Still have the stock motor. Maurice's car wth the transplanted Euro needs some additional looking after, it still had an odd symptom with the clutch engagement and may need a new T-stat as it overheated last time he took it out.
On the CV joints, it was a definite pain. I don't recall the S4's being this much of the PIA. When the boots are fitted, the surface area of the boot that the band goes on is conical, so tightening causes the bands to migrate toward the other end of the axle and off the end of the boot. Also, the tightening bolts that came with the kits are too short, so I had to get longer bolts so that I could close the clamp, and then cut off the ends after they were fully tightened. The only problem is, when tightening the clamp, sometimes the side of the clamp with the bolt head would draw in, other times the other end of the clamp would pull in. Made it difficult to keep the clamp section of the clamp exactly spaced between two of the CV bolt holes so that you could bolt the axle up.
Guess I need to add the cost of four CV boot kits to my tally. 4 @ $15 = $60.
Sorry, no major updates. Had to replace the CV boots in preparation of our next track day in May. Still haven't gotten her to the dyno yet. Still have the stock motor. Maurice's car wth the transplanted Euro needs some additional looking after, it still had an odd symptom with the clutch engagement and may need a new T-stat as it overheated last time he took it out.
On the CV joints, it was a definite pain. I don't recall the S4's being this much of the PIA. When the boots are fitted, the surface area of the boot that the band goes on is conical, so tightening causes the bands to migrate toward the other end of the axle and off the end of the boot. Also, the tightening bolts that came with the kits are too short, so I had to get longer bolts so that I could close the clamp, and then cut off the ends after they were fully tightened. The only problem is, when tightening the clamp, sometimes the side of the clamp with the bolt head would draw in, other times the other end of the clamp would pull in. Made it difficult to keep the clamp section of the clamp exactly spaced between two of the CV bolt holes so that you could bolt the axle up.
Guess I need to add the cost of four CV boot kits to my tally. 4 @ $15 = $60.
04-04-2010, 07:45 PM
#100
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Thread Starter
I've been thinking about paint schemes for the beast.
I really like the signal green with black accents on the 997. The black front lid (probably skip the black on the roof) and the black rims with green stripe are a cool look. Add the black Porsche band on the rocker panels like the 911, and I think we have a winner. I really like the solid color look of the '74 IROC series 911's, and would like to go with a similar look.
Comments?
I really like the signal green with black accents on the 997. The black front lid (probably skip the black on the roof) and the black rims with green stripe are a cool look. Add the black Porsche band on the rocker panels like the 911, and I think we have a winner. I really like the solid color look of the '74 IROC series 911's, and would like to go with a similar look.
Comments?
04-04-2010, 09:41 PM
#101
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ATB I think that would look really cool! Your paint scheme. Honestly I feel these cars look nice in most colors! I was at my mechanics this weekend changing the trans axle fluid to synthetic, putting in a new fuel pump accumulator( $200 ouch) and putting in a new hood liner and Porsche logo, an electric fan from a prowler and some fuel lines. I also scored a real german liscense and a bracket for it. Looks really cool on the front bumper. Not sure how old it is but I think it adds a nice dimension to the car.
When she was jacked up he said I needed new boots too. Sound like this is one of those times when I am glad I don't do my own work!
I bought some euro cams and I will be putting those in a couple weeks along with all the gaskets and a new timing belt. I will leave the wp alone if it spins freely which I have a feeling it will. I have a baseline dyno so it will be interesting to see what just the addition of cams do throughout the rpm range.
If I loose any down low and what I gain at the top.
1979 928 rocks!
Stephen
When she was jacked up he said I needed new boots too. Sound like this is one of those times when I am glad I don't do my own work!
I bought some euro cams and I will be putting those in a couple weeks along with all the gaskets and a new timing belt. I will leave the wp alone if it spins freely which I have a feeling it will. I have a baseline dyno so it will be interesting to see what just the addition of cams do throughout the rpm range.
If I loose any down low and what I gain at the top.
1979 928 rocks!
Stephen
04-04-2010, 11:09 PM
#102
I've been thinking about paint schemes for the beast.
I really like the signal green with black accents on the 997. The black front lid (probably skip the black on the roof) and the black rims with green stripe are a cool look. Add the black Porsche band on the rocker panels like the 911, and I think we have a winner. I really like the solid color look of the '74 IROC series 911's, and would like to go with a similar look.
Comments?
I really like the signal green with black accents on the 997. The black front lid (probably skip the black on the roof) and the black rims with green stripe are a cool look. Add the black Porsche band on the rocker panels like the 911, and I think we have a winner. I really like the solid color look of the '74 IROC series 911's, and would like to go with a similar look.
Comments?
Last edited by Tom. M; 12-14-2012 at 05:12 PM.
05-06-2010, 09:34 PM
#104
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Thread Starter
KIBORTIZED!
Sorry for the crappy pics, I'll try to take some in better lighting when I'm done.
Here's the OB track car with Kibort-ized front fenders. Those are 18x10 up front with the crappy offset, at least now they fit. I'm only going to be running 8's for now, but I'm looking to get another pair of 10's so I can rotate them around.
Here's the OB track car with Kibort-ized front fenders. Those are 18x10 up front with the crappy offset, at least now they fit. I'm only going to be running 8's for now, but I'm looking to get another pair of 10's so I can rotate them around.
05-07-2010, 01:49 AM
#105
Rennlist Member
Ha ha ha! Man, that is way over board compared to what I did. 
those must be some pretty serous offsets! remeber with mine, my bolt were still used in the stock hole location, just off a half of a bolt hole, but the key was at the bottom attachement point. You know how it mounts with a through bolt from the bottom of the fender to the mount? welll, you take the fender, and put the mount on TOP of that mount point( not the bottom), as that flexes the wheel arch of the fender out amazingly far.
I have that left to do on mine, not that my race wheel and newish (donated) hoosiers are mounted on the fixed up Kinesis rims.
more pics of the racer.
those must be some pretty serous offsets! remeber with mine, my bolt were still used in the stock hole location, just off a half of a bolt hole, but the key was at the bottom attachement point. You know how it mounts with a through bolt from the bottom of the fender to the mount? welll, you take the fender, and put the mount on TOP of that mount point( not the bottom), as that flexes the wheel arch of the fender out amazingly far.I have that left to do on mine, not that my race wheel and newish (donated) hoosiers are mounted on the fixed up Kinesis rims.
more pics of the racer.