My new OB / Racer in the making
#136
I figured about $800 for the MSII box, WB02, temp sensors, injector leads, and wiring harness.
Should be cool, can't wait to get that big metering plate out of the intake stream.
Should be cool, can't wait to get that big metering plate out of the intake stream.
#137
Hey - I may have some stuff for you.
I have a relay box - early design, and injector leads for the round injector plugs. Also a relay cable.
Could you use those? I am going to use MSIII so I have no use for those.
I have a relay box - early design, and injector leads for the round injector plugs. Also a relay cable.
Could you use those? I am going to use MSIII so I have no use for those.
#138
BC, thanks for the offer. I didn't respond yet because I had a bid on these and wasn't sure how I would make out. I think what you are describing are Bosch EV6 injector leads. I won't need the relay box as I'm using the stock fuse box.
So, for $20 I am the proud new owner of an LS1 injection harness. I'll need to pull it apart and remove the two extra leads, but man is it nice to fondle the wiring and not have it be all hard and crusty. I wanted to stick with the EV1 style (rectangular) leads, cause I've got a set of stock S4 19lb.r's that I could pop in temporarily.
I'm going to test the reach this weekend, the leads are a little shorter in hand then they looked in the pic.
Pretty cool though.
So, for $20 I am the proud new owner of an LS1 injection harness. I'll need to pull it apart and remove the two extra leads, but man is it nice to fondle the wiring and not have it be all hard and crusty. I wanted to stick with the EV1 style (rectangular) leads, cause I've got a set of stock S4 19lb.r's that I could pop in temporarily.
I'm going to test the reach this weekend, the leads are a little shorter in hand then they looked in the pic.
Pretty cool though.
#139
So, here's some of the latest purchases / projects.
The stock 4.5L finally gave up the ghost. Haven't torn it down to see what happened, but it appears that it had spun a rod bearing in that it turns free for about 300 degrees of crankshaft rotation, and then get very difficult to turn for the last 60 degrees or so, also it will turn through.
John Davis had on old 4.7L long block sitting around, that he was nice enough to donate/long term loan it to the cause. I didn't want to mess with it too much, but after Brian's successes with the Estate racer running a pan spacer and the oil pan baffle unique to the the OB cars ('78/'79), I decided to swap the pan from the blown 4.5L to the 4.7 with a pan spacer. Mike Simard is out of the pan spacer business, but did have a couple extra left in his inventory, this one ran $235 which including shipping. I went ahead and sourced my own studs and lock nuts for about another $25,
Here's the spacer installed with the studs. I anchored the studs in with light duty loctite, before installing the pan spacer. The spacer comes with an extension for the pick up tube. I used extra long mount bolts for the pick up pedestals, and it turned out the two stacked nuts worked out to the same 3/8" height as the pan spacer. Loctited it all down. You need to be careful if you use nuts as spacers in this fashion, because it's easy to think that you are torquing the pedestal down on to the block, when in fact the two nuts are just locking together.
I should note that you need to run one of the aftermarket mini starters when using the pan spacer.
Mark at 928Intl set me up with a used one for $100.
The stock 4.5L finally gave up the ghost. Haven't torn it down to see what happened, but it appears that it had spun a rod bearing in that it turns free for about 300 degrees of crankshaft rotation, and then get very difficult to turn for the last 60 degrees or so, also it will turn through.
John Davis had on old 4.7L long block sitting around, that he was nice enough to donate/long term loan it to the cause. I didn't want to mess with it too much, but after Brian's successes with the Estate racer running a pan spacer and the oil pan baffle unique to the the OB cars ('78/'79), I decided to swap the pan from the blown 4.5L to the 4.7 with a pan spacer. Mike Simard is out of the pan spacer business, but did have a couple extra left in his inventory, this one ran $235 which including shipping. I went ahead and sourced my own studs and lock nuts for about another $25,
Here's the spacer installed with the studs. I anchored the studs in with light duty loctite, before installing the pan spacer. The spacer comes with an extension for the pick up tube. I used extra long mount bolts for the pick up pedestals, and it turned out the two stacked nuts worked out to the same 3/8" height as the pan spacer. Loctited it all down. You need to be careful if you use nuts as spacers in this fashion, because it's easy to think that you are torquing the pedestal down on to the block, when in fact the two nuts are just locking together.
I should note that you need to run one of the aftermarket mini starters when using the pan spacer.
Mark at 928Intl set me up with a used one for $100.
Last edited by atb; 07-04-2011 at 08:15 PM.
#140
The clover leaf insert in the sump of the OB pan was broken apart, it was very brittle due to overheating.
Replacement was purchased from 928 Intl for $40. Roger at 928sRus says he can get them new from Germany as well, they are very reasonably priced.
Here's the replacement insert in place:
Looks much betther than what came out:
The second part of the baffle system is the screen that covers the sump, here it is in place.
Replacement was purchased from 928 Intl for $40. Roger at 928sRus says he can get them new from Germany as well, they are very reasonably priced.
Here's the replacement insert in place:
Looks much betther than what came out:
The second part of the baffle system is the screen that covers the sump, here it is in place.
#141
My original plan was to just bolt up the CIS to the 4.7 with the long term goal to switch to electronic fuel injection using the MegaSquirt II system some time later. I've already posted pics of the used Ford EDIS system I'll be using. Here's a pic of the first shipment from DIYAutotune which contains new GM air and water temp sensors, a 12' MS wiring harness, the 36-1 trigger wheel, and an Innovate MTX-L wide band controller with built in gauge. I haven't ordered the MS-II box yet, I needed to get clarification on ordering it with the PWM idle circuit pre-loaded into the box, it doesn't come with it. Matt Cramer at DIYA was quick to respond and quoted an extra $22 to have the circuit pre-soldered in. I'm doing this based on Colin's suggestion so I will be able to use a VW two lead idle control valve, rather than using a more complicated stepper circuit with a GM idle control valve.
It very tempting to put the system in now, especially with the engine out and everything so accessible, but I keep telling myself my focus for this summer is to get the cage in track car, and finish the rear quarters on my S4 (I've got Louie's flares still in black primer)
Everthing here ran $365.50.
It very tempting to put the system in now, especially with the engine out and everything so accessible, but I keep telling myself my focus for this summer is to get the cage in track car, and finish the rear quarters on my S4 (I've got Louie's flares still in black primer)
Everthing here ran $365.50.
#142
Its coming along nicely....... 1 hangup I found with OB pan-spacer is the oil dipstick might not line up correctly.........since you must run a early one......however with the proper application of force the dipstick will tear a small hole in the mesh screen and work just fine....
While I have had great results without and accusump or oil cooler, I do think they are good ideas.....and are in my future plans....
While I have had great results without and accusump or oil cooler, I do think they are good ideas.....and are in my future plans....
#144
So the motor reassembly has been coming along nicely. Took some time today to go to the local pick apart and get a twin fan set up out of a Ford Contour. This idea was from jcg928s thread about using this mod. I guess these are a popular replacement fan set up for hotrodders, and found a chevy site that states that these fans pull 3400 cfm. Very easy to remove. There is one 10mm nut on each side holding the shroud to the bulhead. The fan harness has quick release terminals (like the injection harness above) to disconnect the wiring from the fan motors. Part of the harness plugs into the AC compressor, which is easily accessible, and then a couple of other terminal plugs on the driver side. One more 10mm bolt holding a ground wire on the passenger side bulkhead, and then pull the fan set straight up. Simple. In the other thread I described it as easy as pulling a piece of toast out of a toaster. So much easier than the stock S4 set up. So my track car will permanently have some Ford DNA.
There were no V6 models at the junk yard, but this car had a 16v DOHC Inline 4 which had the same twin fan set up as the V6. I believe this one was a 1998. There were several other Contours that appeared to have SOHC inline 4's with just a single fan. I think these may have been earlier models, but don't know for sure. This twin fan is more compact than the twin fan set up on the V6 Taurus' that were close by.
Below is a pic of the donor car, and the fan set up laying on top of the 928 radiator. You can see that the width is just about perfect. I'll take pics of the installation after I get it cleaned and the wiring harness stripped.
Cost was $38.10.
There were no V6 models at the junk yard, but this car had a 16v DOHC Inline 4 which had the same twin fan set up as the V6. I believe this one was a 1998. There were several other Contours that appeared to have SOHC inline 4's with just a single fan. I think these may have been earlier models, but don't know for sure. This twin fan is more compact than the twin fan set up on the V6 Taurus' that were close by.
Below is a pic of the donor car, and the fan set up laying on top of the 928 radiator. You can see that the width is just about perfect. I'll take pics of the installation after I get it cleaned and the wiring harness stripped.
Cost was $38.10.
#145
Got the 4.7L dropped in today. I installed the 4.5L cams into this motor, pan spacer, new main seals, and inspected the rod bearings. Glad she's in, wasn't so bad doing this as a one man operation as I thought it would be. Old style motor mounts are more forgiving than the newer style.
To make things extra fun, before I started this morning my car was facing the rear wall of the shop with two non-running 928's between the main door and my car. Put one car on the lift, and pushed out the middle car and my car. Turned my car around in the parking lot and pushed it backward into the garage against the back wall with the engine bay facing front so I could get the cherry picker to it. Went to push the middle car back into the shop ( I should mention that there was no key to this car, so I was lucky that I could push it out without having to steer around anything) but man it just had too much drag to get it back inside. There's a slight up hill to enter the garage door and she just wasn't going to go. Fine, doesn't look like rain, deal with it later. Spent the morning getting the 4.7L on the engine mounts, and had to leave. Several tries and lots of cursing and I managed to push the red beast back in, but unfortunately without a key it isn't going to make it back to its original parking spot.
I need to invest in a fork lift.
To make things extra fun, before I started this morning my car was facing the rear wall of the shop with two non-running 928's between the main door and my car. Put one car on the lift, and pushed out the middle car and my car. Turned my car around in the parking lot and pushed it backward into the garage against the back wall with the engine bay facing front so I could get the cherry picker to it. Went to push the middle car back into the shop ( I should mention that there was no key to this car, so I was lucky that I could push it out without having to steer around anything) but man it just had too much drag to get it back inside. There's a slight up hill to enter the garage door and she just wasn't going to go. Fine, doesn't look like rain, deal with it later. Spent the morning getting the 4.7L on the engine mounts, and had to leave. Several tries and lots of cursing and I managed to push the red beast back in, but unfortunately without a key it isn't going to make it back to its original parking spot.
I need to invest in a fork lift.
#147
Adam,
When moving an inop car take a breaker bar and 19mm deep socket. Put that on one of the lug nuts (tightening direction) and turn the wheels with this. It makes moving the car MUCH easier.
When moving an inop car take a breaker bar and 19mm deep socket. Put that on one of the lug nuts (tightening direction) and turn the wheels with this. It makes moving the car MUCH easier.
#149
The shop was all abuzz with activity today. Tom and Mark Jacobson and his son Matt were doing his Devek header install, and John Davis was helping me with my rig. Most recently, I had a really bad shudder on clutch engagement making the car undrivable. I bought a new intermediate plate courtesy of 928 Intl (thanks Mark) and with the help of John Davis we got the DD back in. Didn't have a chance to road test it yet, but engagement just rolling it back and forth in the shop was like buttah. I've been having some issues with the T-stat control on the Contour fans so I don't fully trust them. They come on, but don't stay on. I don't want to overheat the borrowed 4.5L I have in the car now, (destroyed enough engines in this beast) so I need to figure out how to wire the fans to the stock Temp Sensor on the rad. If anyone can jot down a quick wiring diagram, it would be greatly appreciated. Once the fans are under control, and if clutch passes a road test, I can get the car caged. (finally!) Also have a 928MS front bar and a 928SP rear bar on the way courtesy of 928 Intl. Woot!
#150
Running Tally as of Nov. 4, 2013:
Car $ 500
GT2 wing $ 100
Track Rims $ 300
Tires $ Trade
Colin Jensan Short Shifter $ 100
S4 front brake adapter $195
S4 rear calipers $ 75
S4 front calipers $200
Turn brake rotors $ 63.80
New 993 Front Rotors $ 208.50
Stainless brake lines $ Trade
Caliper bolts $TBD
Aftermarket springs $106.19
Sparco Race Seat $250
CV Boot Kits (4) $ 60
WP Shoulder Bolt
Alignment $ 84
Plexi rear glass $137
Sparco Sliders $ 70
Sparco Side Mounts $ 79
Sparco Hub Adapter $ 75
Edis 8 Ignition (Used) $ 75
GM Injection Harness $ 20
Used Mini Start $100
Pan Spacer $235
Used Pan Insert $ 40
First DIYA Shipment $ 365.50
-GM CLT & air sensor
-Innovate MTX-L
-12' wiring harness
-36-1 trigger wheel
Ford Contour Rad Fan $ 38.10
18x10 et65 rims, tires, and refinish $530.00
Intermediate Plate $500.00
Cage Installation $3196.71
928MS Front Sway Bar (Used) $300.00
928SP Rear Sway Bar (Used) $200.00
GZ vacuum pump / pulley $ 366.04
Used Bilstein / Eibach Susp. $850.00
Custom Rear Shock mount $250.00
Pontiac GP headlights $54.00
Clutch Master Cylinder $95.00
Blue Hose $22.00
Rebuilt cmc hose $28.00
PKlutch $39.00
S4 Brake Booster/MC $665.00
Wilwood Adj. Bias Valve 42.00
Odyssey Battery $105.20
Mount and Terminals 29.96
Total: $ 10680.00
Good Buddy donations:
Steering wheel - Ken Osage
Center console/fan switch/fuel pump switch - Ken Osage
Battery Kill switch - Ken Osage
Steel ball joints - John Davis
Interior Door mechanism - John Davis
Radiator - Tom Middleton
Battery Positive lead - Ken Osage
Trouble shooting electrical so all lights work - Ken Osage
Used rear S4 rotors - John Davis
Adapter and Caliper Bolts - Ken Osage
4.7 Long Block (RIP - Sorry John, I owe you a 4.7L) - John Davis
4.5 Long Block - Ken Osage
Car $ 500
GT2 wing $ 100
Track Rims $ 300
Tires $ Trade
Colin Jensan Short Shifter $ 100
S4 front brake adapter $195
S4 rear calipers $ 75
S4 front calipers $200
Turn brake rotors $ 63.80
New 993 Front Rotors $ 208.50
Stainless brake lines $ Trade
Caliper bolts $TBD
Aftermarket springs $106.19
Sparco Race Seat $250
CV Boot Kits (4) $ 60
WP Shoulder Bolt
Alignment $ 84
Plexi rear glass $137
Sparco Sliders $ 70
Sparco Side Mounts $ 79
Sparco Hub Adapter $ 75
Edis 8 Ignition (Used) $ 75
GM Injection Harness $ 20
Used Mini Start $100
Pan Spacer $235
Used Pan Insert $ 40
First DIYA Shipment $ 365.50
-GM CLT & air sensor
-Innovate MTX-L
-12' wiring harness
-36-1 trigger wheel
Ford Contour Rad Fan $ 38.10
18x10 et65 rims, tires, and refinish $530.00
Intermediate Plate $500.00
Cage Installation $3196.71
928MS Front Sway Bar (Used) $300.00
928SP Rear Sway Bar (Used) $200.00
GZ vacuum pump / pulley $ 366.04
Used Bilstein / Eibach Susp. $850.00
Custom Rear Shock mount $250.00
Pontiac GP headlights $54.00
Clutch Master Cylinder $95.00
Blue Hose $22.00
Rebuilt cmc hose $28.00
PKlutch $39.00
S4 Brake Booster/MC $665.00
Wilwood Adj. Bias Valve 42.00
Odyssey Battery $105.20
Mount and Terminals 29.96
Total: $ 10680.00
Good Buddy donations:
Steering wheel - Ken Osage
Center console/fan switch/fuel pump switch - Ken Osage
Battery Kill switch - Ken Osage
Steel ball joints - John Davis
Interior Door mechanism - John Davis
Radiator - Tom Middleton
Battery Positive lead - Ken Osage
Trouble shooting electrical so all lights work - Ken Osage
Used rear S4 rotors - John Davis
Adapter and Caliper Bolts - Ken Osage
4.7 Long Block (RIP - Sorry John, I owe you a 4.7L) - John Davis
4.5 Long Block - Ken Osage
Last edited by atb; 11-04-2013 at 04:32 PM.