You want overboard,I'll show you overboard!

 

As long as we're sharing pics, here's a new bumper.

 

SWEET! Is that all fiberglass?

 

No it's a factory cover that was added on to. It came on a parts car so I'm not sure how he did it but the bottom is plywood.

 

How much do you want for it? Or has it long since been sold?

 

Can't quite picture this Mark, got a pic?
Maybe it's different on the older body style compared to the S4's?

 

It was for sale at Sharktoberfest for $250 with no takers. Mr Fan picked it up last week and had it painted for his yellow monster.

 

No takes @ $250... that's crazy - I would have been all over that for my RS4 track project... you snooze you lose as the saying goes.

 

I see what he is talking about now. Remember when the bottom bolt on the fender just drops out ..just unscrew and it came off the bottom... well just push the bottom of the fender back towards that same point except make sure the fender is pushed up over the mounting tab and then replace the screw (instead of going through the fender into the mounting tab..it now goes through the mounting tab first and then into the fender. This I guess makes the wheel arch bulge outward..and then you only have to pull the upper part over enough that notches in the bolt holes will work....

But I like your fender setup better

 

Wow I like that bumper! Mark you should start making those!

 

The latest addtions:

Replaced rear glass with plexi -







Cost? about $137 in materials and lots of time.

Here's a redeaux on the kibortized front fender. I re-did the lower rear mount per Mark's instruction, which allowed me to use the majority of the top mounting bolts in their stock location. Much better.

 

WANT!!!

 

Here is the fender mod.

the fender has to be detached from the body. after the soft glue is broken up, it moves around really easily. half a bolt holeoutward on the top hood area bolts. hardly can tell when you do this. Then, the bottom of the fender as it attaches to the body, has a bolt that normally goes through the fender and then into a threaded hole . you LIFT the fender tab up and over this attachment point and drive the bolt through the fender and DOWN in to the threaded area. this does what is shown on the picture. you then can bulge out the fender even more by twisting it open. the last part is then drilling a hole through the inside of the fender near the door that matches up to the middle height hole that normally bolts the fender to the chassis, infront of the door. what you end up with , is a ton of room on the fender, AND it actually lifts the arch up a bit, also helping with the fit of the larger holes. this is in its final form, but I did tack down the S4 body runner work, at the bottom and might even add a plate to make it look a little better down low. I also cut the inside of the fender to make a vent hole for the wheel well air to escape along the side door path. you can see the faint trace of the cut out if you look carefully.

the wheels in the picture are 10s with 8" backspacing, and there is a bunch of room. with the 10s adn 315s up front , they fit perfect , but the backspacing is 8.5". (sligtly different rim) the hope is that these rims will also fit the 315s as they are only 5" moved to the outside . might be tight.

 

Also, on the side lexan or plastic windows, I used stand offs so that the window is flush with the body and then also used the stock metal window frame and drilled holes in it to frame the window so it looked kind of stock looking.

 

On the big rear hatch lexan you might want to consider some support structure. Mine needed it.