Back Widow's blown #6 rod bearing :>(
#16
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Stupid question, but is that how the pan looked when it came out? Mine has some screen thing across the deep part of the pan and a plastic deal in the bottom but I've never seen mention of it anyplace else.
![](http://www.stephensphotos.com/data/media/25/_MG_6783.jpg)
![](http://www.stephensphotos.com/data/media/25/_MG_6783.jpg)
![](http://www.stephensphotos.com/data/media/25/_MG_6798.jpg)
#17
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On the subject of the clutch...
the disc may have been new. But, I'd bet the pressure plate is the original. 20 years of sitting there pressing on a clutch disc will make you tired if you're a pressure plate.
(i.e there's a big difference in clamping force between an out-of-the-box PP and a 20 year-old PP.)
the disc may have been new. But, I'd bet the pressure plate is the original. 20 years of sitting there pressing on a clutch disc will make you tired if you're a pressure plate.
(i.e there's a big difference in clamping force between an out-of-the-box PP and a 20 year-old PP.)
#18
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This is why the oil fill can has it's own screen.
I converted my 81 to the sump with a screen and removed the one in your picture.
#21
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Sorry to hear of the issue, but like others have said, at least you caught it before the engine greaded. Now you've got options to fix it up right and have a dependable motor.
#22
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I think Greg can chime in here, but is this not an anomaly that there is only one o of the 2/6 bad? This is SUPER localized.
But I have nothing else to say other than....
Happy wife, happy life.
But I have nothing else to say other than....
Happy wife, happy life.
#23
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Here it is...the damage is official.....Black Widows engine is OUT and the news is in and NOT GOOD....
#6 rod bearing was down to copper quite a bit....#2 was worn, but still "silver"....the REALLY bad news is the crank is worn down-scarred pretty bad on #6....a quick check with a dial caliper (not accurate enough) revealed it is slightly under spec (min spec is like 51.971 to 51.990)....#2 was fine at 51.980....so is the crank a goner.....I don't know.....maybe some +1 tolerance rod bearings will work, once the crank is down to a uniform size?
Anyone have a good crank for sale cheap?
More bad news....my "new" clutch sure looks SMOKED for being a grand total of 1000 miles old or so.... so a new one is in the works (great more $$$$$)....
Enough talk, heres the pics and time for me to![cherrsagai](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/drink.gif)
![cherrsagai](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/drink.gif)
Hmm lets see how I'll tell the wife....."honey the race car, which you HATE with a passion I've never seen & yes you told me NOT to buy, is broken (shocker I know) & it will cost thousands of $$$ to fix it....................pause why I recover from groin kick............yes dear I will "try" to sell sharky....
#6 rod bearing was down to copper quite a bit....#2 was worn, but still "silver"....the REALLY bad news is the crank is worn down-scarred pretty bad on #6....a quick check with a dial caliper (not accurate enough) revealed it is slightly under spec (min spec is like 51.971 to 51.990)....#2 was fine at 51.980....so is the crank a goner.....I don't know.....maybe some +1 tolerance rod bearings will work, once the crank is down to a uniform size?
Anyone have a good crank for sale cheap?
More bad news....my "new" clutch sure looks SMOKED for being a grand total of 1000 miles old or so.... so a new one is in the works (great more $$$$$)....
Enough talk, heres the pics and time for me to
![cherrsagai](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/drink.gif)
![cherrsagai](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/drink.gif)
Hmm lets see how I'll tell the wife....."honey the race car, which you HATE with a passion I've never seen & yes you told me NOT to buy, is broken (shocker I know) & it will cost thousands of $$$ to fix it....................pause why I recover from groin kick............yes dear I will "try" to sell sharky....
#24
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I would think that since both #2 and #6 are oiled from the second main bearing and there is no oil supplied by the center main bearing (note that #1 and #5 rod bearings get oiled from two main bearings) that this makes some sense. #6 is slightly farther from the marginal oil supply than #2. Cross drilling also sends oil from the center main bearing, requiring a "modified" center main bearing.
#25
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Brian:
That clutch has been slipping....that causes the heat.
A GTS pressure plate has more "clamping" pressure than the early pressure plates. I think I have a good used one, BTW.
That clutch has been slipping....that causes the heat.
A GTS pressure plate has more "clamping" pressure than the early pressure plates. I think I have a good used one, BTW.
#26
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Brian, Im really sorry to hear the results, but at least we know now
Are you convinced that it happened with your use, or could have this started with the previous owner?
That clutch is not going to make it. I had a stock S4 clutch with the holbert car, and it would slip on occasion. I just barely could hold on to a speed shift with 290rwhp. add that to the fact that you clutch was very old, spells dual disc clutch conversion. The good news is that it wont cost much more to do the conversion. Did you see my clutch discs from my clutch when it was slipping with the stroker? the discs still had the original serial numbers with ink still in tact. 7 years of racing and NO clutch disc wear!
The pan looks clean, so it wasnt a sludge problem like scot had with the "mystery" 4.7 euro, but we wont know what really was the cause. detonation of that single cylinder, and that could explain the single failure. Did you see any oil pressure issues in the first track day? any thing below 5 bar at all times would indicate that something was "up" before hand.
Keep in mind folks, 7 full racing seasons! 105 racing days, countless higher g loading at all sorts of different tracks, yet no bearing wear on #2-6. All amzoil oil run, and safe fuel mixtures and probably no detonation. Maybe that could be the difference.
Obviously you are gong to do things to avoid the realistic chance of things happening again, but there has got to be a reason why I have been so fortunate with the 84, the 85 5 liter, the Holbert 5 liter and the new stroker. along with scots 3 motors that saw full seasons of racing too. Blackstone oil sample testing never showed any change in in the clean qualities of the oil in 3-4 tests.
Again, bummed you are getting off to a rough start! Stay with it, you will be back in no time!
Now, Im going to cut my filter up right now to see what my stroker motor has been doing, as Ive been beating it up pretty good lately! Knock knock!!!! (and sending the oil sample out to Blackstone to be sure!)
mk
Are you convinced that it happened with your use, or could have this started with the previous owner?
That clutch is not going to make it. I had a stock S4 clutch with the holbert car, and it would slip on occasion. I just barely could hold on to a speed shift with 290rwhp. add that to the fact that you clutch was very old, spells dual disc clutch conversion. The good news is that it wont cost much more to do the conversion. Did you see my clutch discs from my clutch when it was slipping with the stroker? the discs still had the original serial numbers with ink still in tact. 7 years of racing and NO clutch disc wear!
The pan looks clean, so it wasnt a sludge problem like scot had with the "mystery" 4.7 euro, but we wont know what really was the cause. detonation of that single cylinder, and that could explain the single failure. Did you see any oil pressure issues in the first track day? any thing below 5 bar at all times would indicate that something was "up" before hand.
Keep in mind folks, 7 full racing seasons! 105 racing days, countless higher g loading at all sorts of different tracks, yet no bearing wear on #2-6. All amzoil oil run, and safe fuel mixtures and probably no detonation. Maybe that could be the difference.
Obviously you are gong to do things to avoid the realistic chance of things happening again, but there has got to be a reason why I have been so fortunate with the 84, the 85 5 liter, the Holbert 5 liter and the new stroker. along with scots 3 motors that saw full seasons of racing too. Blackstone oil sample testing never showed any change in in the clean qualities of the oil in 3-4 tests.
Again, bummed you are getting off to a rough start! Stay with it, you will be back in no time!
Now, Im going to cut my filter up right now to see what my stroker motor has been doing, as Ive been beating it up pretty good lately! Knock knock!!!! (and sending the oil sample out to Blackstone to be sure!)
mk
Last edited by mark kibort; 04-09-2009 at 03:46 AM.
#27
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Brian-
Sorry to hear about the engine! If the crank polishing doesn't work out, I've got the crank from my 91GT motor that Abby has first right of refusal on right now, but if he passes I'd sell it for $500. This of course, contingent on my making sure it mics 'in spec'. I'd also be happy to ferry it up to Taylor machine and back if you want to get it drilled ....
Sorry to hear about the engine! If the crank polishing doesn't work out, I've got the crank from my 91GT motor that Abby has first right of refusal on right now, but if he passes I'd sell it for $500. This of course, contingent on my making sure it mics 'in spec'. I'd also be happy to ferry it up to Taylor machine and back if you want to get it drilled ....
That brings up an interesting question. Has anyone had a crank done since Jay passed on?
Jay had a friend that cam in "after hours" and did the cranks. Jay tried to "save" up a couple of jobs to make this worthwhile. I wonder if this can still be done?
I'll call Barbara and ask. I've got a few extra cranks that I'd have drilled and just "put" on the shelf, in case someone needs one. That might make this happen. I'll let you know.
#28
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GB,
I contacted them after Jay, and they did state that they would be willing to still do the modifications.
Turn around time was NOT quick though.
I contacted them after Jay, and they did state that they would be willing to still do the modifications.
Turn around time was NOT quick though.
#30
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