davek9

Hello all, I am finally getting to work on my ’85 and attending to some of my “to do” list.

I’m currently in the process of replacing the MM’s and the Oil pan gasket and under cross member clean up.

Wanting to try the Oil Pan Stud kit, as I had struggled getting a few of the bolts seated past the new silicon gasket when doing this job on Paul’s ’91 last year.

Some of the bolt holes are threaded right through, so there is no stop for the Stud’s.
I used Blue thread locker and did as I don’t want to “screw” around with them (pun intended) should I remove and use the Red?

I have them all set at approx 24 mm, is this good, how far should they extend?

Looking for some “been there done that advice” and or suggestions.

Thanks in advance,

Dave K9

ROG100

Dave,
You need to allow enough thread to take the SOPG and the sump plus the nut and a couple of threads at least. Sounds like you have done this already.
Roger

blown 87

Roger, how do you account for the changing of the torque values with a nylock nut since it changes after the first use?

the flyin' scotsman

The OEM bolt has an overall length of 32mm with the threaded portion being 26mm.

The studs are 40mm overall with the nut & washer approx. 8mm leaving a threaded portion of 32mm.

If you have Rogers studs you can use a allan socket to adjust the stud length one you have the pan secured by a few corner nuts.

Black Sea RD

When I changed the old stock oil pan gasket with the new silicone one from Roger, nice piece by the way, I used new bolts all sized the same as the shortest old bolt. I then used lock washers instead of plain flat washers to help hold some tension on the bolts so they would not back out as the old ones regularly did. No fussing with measuring the length of studs and having to rely on loctite to keep them at the correct height.

I have the stud kit and will sell it to anyone who wants it at a reduced price then when I bought it.

Cheers,
Constantine

blown 87

Are the lock washers you are using the split type or the wavy washers?

SharkSkin

I'm not sure -- I used Carl's kit which consists of proper studs instead of set screws -- they have a non-threaded portion that bottoms against the block and they just work.

Having said that, 24mm should be just fine if the threaded portion of the bolt is 26mm on most of them as Malcolm says -- some are shorter though. You might want to double-check that the ones that sit directly above the crossmember have enough clearance so that they will not hit the crossmember when the motor twists around on the mounts. Allow some extra room since the mounts will collapse over time.

I recommend that when you install the pan, hang it from a couple of nuts on each side near the front and rear, each threaded on a couple of turns, then get all of the nuts started across the front of the pan before proceeding.

the flyin' scotsman

The OP bolt I measured is from front near the crank balancer...........there are shorter ones I just dont have them out yet..............tomorrow, weather permitting.

PET list 25 bolts 28mm long and 5 bolts 25mm long.

ROG100

Greg,
Personnaly I do not torque them with aTorque wrench I use feel.
Needs very little - two fingers on the end of the wrench - do not squash the gasket.
I do not plan on taking them off again 8>)
Roger

Black Sea RD

Why? Which one should I say I used?

Ted928

This is great advice. I learned it the hard way.

Davek9 - I see you pulled the starter. Was your metal clutch line in the way of removing the upper bolt? My WS manual shows the line going under the starter but mine went over and was in the way.
If you removed it, it can be hard to bleed. Unbolt the slave so you can tilt the end up and crack the nipple to let the air bubble out.

blown 87

I always plan to take things off.......................

But I was just screwing with you on the torque issue, I am going to measure the torque it takes to move the nylocks and then add the torque value of what the gasket says.

Now is where we get to where the **** part comes in, I plan to measure the amount of compression on the gasket with the stock bolts and compare that with what I came out with doing it with the studs and nylocks.

Got a fancy Snap-On dial type inch pound torque wrench just for that.

Yes, this goes back to what we were talking about this morning.

BC

Must... Resist... Powdercoat...suspension....crossmember.....

blown 87

I like the round ones

I used the wavy ones the last time I did it with bolts, but the torque figure was so little that a few backed out any way, and I should have used locktite.
I dont know how many times I went around that gasket to get a even torque.

ROG100

Constantine send them back and I will give you a refund.
No problem,
Roger