Oil Pan Stud Kit ?
#16
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Dave, four of the short bolts (or studs) go over the cross-member for clearance, the fifth short bolt/stud goes in the left-rear corner over the starter. The oil pan has recesses in those locations.
We used Roger's stud kit, and I cut a few mm off the five studs that were going into those locations-- I didn't want to take the chance that they would bottom on the crossmember. Most of the studs screw into blind holes and bottomed at an appropriate height, I set the others to the same height (minus 3mm for the short ones). I put them in with red loctite. I'm sorry I didn't measure them but here's the pic's with and without gasket.
I tightened the pan by feel, I didn't trust the torque spec because this is a different sort of gasket-- as Roger said, you only want a small amount of compression. So I snugged them all up until the pan was firmly against the gasket, i.e. took up the "slack". Then went around twice (if I recall correctly) taking up 1/4 turn on each nut (until they "felt right").
P.S. This is Sue's GT, the S4 still needs MM/OPG.
We used Roger's stud kit, and I cut a few mm off the five studs that were going into those locations-- I didn't want to take the chance that they would bottom on the crossmember. Most of the studs screw into blind holes and bottomed at an appropriate height, I set the others to the same height (minus 3mm for the short ones). I put them in with red loctite. I'm sorry I didn't measure them but here's the pic's with and without gasket.
I tightened the pan by feel, I didn't trust the torque spec because this is a different sort of gasket-- as Roger said, you only want a small amount of compression. So I snugged them all up until the pan was firmly against the gasket, i.e. took up the "slack". Then went around twice (if I recall correctly) taking up 1/4 turn on each nut (until they "felt right").
P.S. This is Sue's GT, the S4 still needs MM/OPG.
#17
Well I used the split ones, round of course! I used Roger's method of hand tightening each one by feel, going around the pan a few times. Very light torque trying not to over tighten them and squeezing the gasket out.
Cheers,
Constantine
Cheers,
Constantine
#18
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Jim,
That second picture is pure 928 ****.
May I use it for customers please?
Roger
That second picture is pure 928 ****.
May I use it for customers please?
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#19
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What the real gasket needs is phenolic spacers to control the compression of the gasket and allow the bolts/nuts to reach a torque level that will not allow the bolts/nuts to back off.
just my .02$
just my .02$
#21
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The spacers go around the studs or bolts, all you have to do is make the holes a little bigger for the spacers to fit, and they may be big enough all ready.
I will try to find a gasket like this tomorrow and send you a picture Roger, most of the silicone gaskets are made like that now for other applications, some are even composite with a steel inner liner.
#23
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Phenolic might not be the best, but Rog if you make stainless sleeves which fit into each of the bolt holes to hold the pan the perfect distance away from the block so as to allow the bolts to be tightened further without squeezing the gasket.
Well beyond squeezing without deforming it, but still letting it seal.
Well beyond squeezing without deforming it, but still letting it seal.
#24
The 944 one comes with those spacers in the bolt holes, thought it was pretty nifty and wondered why the 928 doesn't have them.
As for the torque specs, I tried on a couple and it just was not worth the pain. Snug to fit, going over them a couple of times to ensure they are snug works well enough.
As for the torque specs, I tried on a couple and it just was not worth the pain. Snug to fit, going over them a couple of times to ensure they are snug works well enough.
#25
Maybe the 944 ones can be used for our 928s, no need to reinvent the wheel.
I'm with Sean and Roger, snug to fit by hand understanding that too much torque is not needed for this application.
Cheers,
Constantine
I'm with Sean and Roger, snug to fit by hand understanding that too much torque is not needed for this application.
Cheers,
Constantine
#26
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Phenolic might not be the best, but Rog if you make stainless sleeves which fit into each of the bolt holes to hold the pan the perfect distance away from the block so as to allow the bolts to be tightened further without squeezing the gasket.
Well beyond squeezing without deforming it, but still letting it seal.
Well beyond squeezing without deforming it, but still letting it seal.
#27
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Unless the spacers are somehow bonded to the gasket, I think you're going to find that issues will arise with installation. For example, if one of the spacers pinches the gasket, it's going to throw everything off. It may not be an issue for most, but IMHO it will cause some issues. YMMV.
#28
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There may be another solution, I have been planning to drive over to see Chris (RealGaskets is an hour away) concerning some other items and will discuss my idea with him.
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#29
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Unless the spacers are somehow bonded to the gasket, I think you're going to find that issues will arise with installation. For example, if one of the spacers pinches the gasket, it's going to throw everything off. It may not be an issue for most, but IMHO it will cause some issues. YMMV.
Man that would be a bitch trying to get them to stay upside down under a car.
#30
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Unless the spacers are somehow bonded to the gasket, I think you're going to find that issues will arise with installation. For example, if one of the spacers pinches the gasket, it's going to throw everything off. It may not be an issue for most, but IMHO it will cause some issues. YMMV.
Any spacer would have to 'fixed'; like the solution Porsche has with the 32v valve cover.