WD-40 for piston/ring installation in bore
#1
WD-40 for piston/ring installation in bore
http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/...uctions/470561
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...er=asc&start=0
WTF? This is the first I have heard of it. Seating the rings is important, but WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant.
Since I will be starting the 4.5L in weird or untested conditions, I may still use oil. Ethanol, new tune, etc.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...er=asc&start=0
WTF? This is the first I have heard of it. Seating the rings is important, but WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant.
Since I will be starting the 4.5L in weird or untested conditions, I may still use oil. Ethanol, new tune, etc.
#5
I guess I should say that I was not asking what I should do. I was making a post about what others ARE doing outside of our little clique.
I was attempting to elicit responses regarding this (to me) very unusual information. If I was starting this car up on a known-tune with normal gas, and RIGHT away, I would probably do it/try it.
I was attempting to elicit responses regarding this (to me) very unusual information. If I was starting this car up on a known-tune with normal gas, and RIGHT away, I would probably do it/try it.
#6
#7
WD-40 is a water displacement compound--not a lubricant.
pistons/rings should be dipped in oil, or coated with "Lubriplate", not just a few drops of oil applied. be very liberal with your assembly. Same thing goes for new/old cams/lifters and oil pumps.
break-in and first start-ups are critical to piston/ring seating and wear.
it may smoke like heck when you firsts start it, but your engine will thanks you for it.
--Russ
pistons/rings should be dipped in oil, or coated with "Lubriplate", not just a few drops of oil applied. be very liberal with your assembly. Same thing goes for new/old cams/lifters and oil pumps.
break-in and first start-ups are critical to piston/ring seating and wear.
it may smoke like heck when you firsts start it, but your engine will thanks you for it.
--Russ
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#8
WD-40 is mineral spirits(Stoddard Solvent) and mineral oil. The mineral spirits would be long gone by the time you tried to start the engine. I doubt the mineral oil is an adequate startup lube, but it's better than nothing. Probably fine for an iron bore. Certainly fewer parts to sweep up off the driveway afterward with an MGB.
BTW, MGB="More Garbage from Britain"
BTW, MGB="More Garbage from Britain"
#10
Just a little bit of redline assembly lube on the skirts. liberal amounts of oil around the rings.
mk
mk
I guess I should say that I was not asking what I should do. I was making a post about what others ARE doing outside of our little clique.
I was attempting to elicit responses regarding this (to me) very unusual information. If I was starting this car up on a known-tune with normal gas, and RIGHT away, I would probably do it/try it.
I was attempting to elicit responses regarding this (to me) very unusual information. If I was starting this car up on a known-tune with normal gas, and RIGHT away, I would probably do it/try it.
#11
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I know a couple of engine builders who swear by that stuff, they add a bottle with every oil change.
#12
WD-40 is a water displacement compound--not a lubricant.
pistons/rings should be dipped in oil, or coated with "Lubriplate", not just a few drops of oil applied. be very liberal with your assembly. Same thing goes for new/old cams/lifters and oil pumps.
break-in and first start-ups are critical to piston/ring seating and wear.
it may smoke like heck when you firsts start it, but your engine will thanks you for it.
--Russ
pistons/rings should be dipped in oil, or coated with "Lubriplate", not just a few drops of oil applied. be very liberal with your assembly. Same thing goes for new/old cams/lifters and oil pumps.
break-in and first start-ups are critical to piston/ring seating and wear.
it may smoke like heck when you firsts start it, but your engine will thanks you for it.
--Russ
Did you read the articles I posted?
#14
Just my 2 cents worth.
#15
I think some of the east coast crew has used the WD 40 method for lubricating cylinders on initial start up.
When I was in highschool (early '80s) all of the engine builders were using STP on all the crank/rod bearings for assembly.
Could be old school, but I submerge the piston inverted in oil until the ring package is under and about half the wrist pin. I should also note that there is usually days to weeks before the engine is started and so that a majority of the oil would have drained to the sump by the time I turn the key.
When I was in highschool (early '80s) all of the engine builders were using STP on all the crank/rod bearings for assembly.
Could be old school, but I submerge the piston inverted in oil until the ring package is under and about half the wrist pin. I should also note that there is usually days to weeks before the engine is started and so that a majority of the oil would have drained to the sump by the time I turn the key.