BC

http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/...uctions/470561

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...er=asc&start=0

WTF? This is the first I have heard of it. Seating the rings is important, but WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant.

Since I will be starting the 4.5L in weird or untested conditions, I may still use oil. Ethanol, new tune, etc.

LT Texan

That's what Larry Widmer at Energy Dynamics does it. (IIRC).

Mrmerlin

oil the bore , and a few drops on the rings and skirt, by the time you get to turn the key all of the oil will have drained down into the sump

RyanPerrella

oil the cylinder surface and i would coat the piston skirts and piston pin in oil as well.

BC

I guess I should say that I was not asking what I should do. I was making a post about what others ARE doing outside of our little clique.

I was attempting to elicit responses regarding this (to me) very unusual information. If I was starting this car up on a known-tune with normal gas, and RIGHT away, I would probably do it/try it.

Mike B

I agree...Not that I'm a chemist but I believe WD-40 is more of a degreaser than a lubricant. Oil is tried and true and what I use.

largecar379

WD-40 is a water displacement compound--not a lubricant.

pistons/rings should be dipped in oil, or coated with "Lubriplate", not just a few drops of oil applied. be very liberal with your assembly. Same thing goes for new/old cams/lifters and oil pumps.

break-in and first start-ups are critical to piston/ring seating and wear.

it may smoke like heck when you firsts start it, but your engine will thanks you for it.





--Russ

SharkSkin

WD-40 is mineral spirits(Stoddard Solvent) and mineral oil. The mineral spirits would be long gone by the time you tried to start the engine. I doubt the mineral oil is an adequate startup lube, but it's better than nothing. Probably fine for an iron bore. Certainly fewer parts to sweep up off the driveway afterward with an MGB.

BTW, MGB="More Garbage from Britain"

Nightfly

Last engine I built was in 1980; used STP. Everyone else I knew did also. No problems with it. Might be old-fashioned, but it worked.

mark kibort

Just a little bit of redline assembly lube on the skirts. liberal amounts of oil around the rings.



mk

hacker-pschorr

The stuff in the blue bottle? Thick oil with high concentration of ZDDP, sounds like a good method.

I know a couple of engine builders who swear by that stuff, they add a bottle with every oil change.

BC

Did you read the articles I posted?

largecar379

probably, but I've slept a little bit since then......just a little bit.








--Russ

oz928s4

Not sure what the stuff is you refer to but you need to take care not to glaze the bores on start up. Those oil conditioners are not what I would recommend for assembly...maybe on the bearings... bigs and mains but not up top in the ring or piston area.
Just my 2 cents worth.

atb

I think some of the east coast crew has used the WD 40 method for lubricating cylinders on initial start up.
When I was in highschool (early '80s) all of the engine builders were using STP on all the crank/rod bearings for assembly.
Could be old school, but I submerge the piston inverted in oil until the ring package is under and about half the wrist pin. I should also note that there is usually days to weeks before the engine is started and so that a majority of the oil would have drained to the sump by the time I turn the key.