M. Requin

Are you going to redline your newly rebuilt engine on startup? Not likely. Engine oil (or your favorite formula - assembly lube, redline, stp, J&B- oh wait, that's MY favorite lubricant - whatever, liberally applied as Mark and Russ have noted, is about all you can do. Some things you can control and some you can't. You CAN control throttle opening, for example...

SolReaver

I use a mix of STP and engine oil with a dash of MMO. (old school, I guess) what doesn't go on the engine parts goes in the engine at startup. a spoonful down the spark plugs as well before startup. WD-40 does leave a "film" but I would want a little more. Do you intend to pressurize the oil galleries before starting?

RyanPerrella

if you insist on ZDDP, just use Brad Penn motor oil

Air cooled 911 guys get hard on's talking about that stuff .....

dr bob

WD40 doesn't hang on to anything for very long. I prep the bores with a shot of marine preservative from CRC, and coat the whole insides of the block with the stuff if it's an iron block. Good for a year or more of corrosion protection. The pistons are soaked in engine oil as Adam suggests. Bearings have assembly lube. White lithium grease is an acceptable substitute except for cams. which get the assembly lube recommended by the cam supplier. Or they get some EP moly or Redline CV extreme pressure grease. It's important to pre-fill and pressurize the oil system with the engine in the car prior to first startup. This is especially critical for cars with external coolers and/or filters whwre a lot of oil is needed before pressure builds. An external pump is perfect for this. Used to keep a Y-block Ford pump for this duty since it has a hose fitting thread already on it. Dunk it in a bucket of oil, spin with an electric drill, pre-fill through a cooler or filter fitting. The 928 oil pump doesn't lend itself to prefilling once the timing belt is installed.

My last new car made it all the way home from the dealer with original oil in it before the swap to synthetic. A couple stabs at the throttle after the engine was up to temp, and the rings were as seated as they would ever be. Then synthetic the rest of its life. Bores and bearings looked new at 125k inspection, no ridge at all in the iron block. I don't think you get any real value back from your cars until at least 250k miles on them.

hacker-pschorr

This stuff:

Is that really a big concern with these engines? I really have no idea.
Isn't the "fix" for a glazed bore honing the cylinder? I've also read over the years glazing can be cause by a bad hone.

Honing these blocks is not common (or usually necessary), I cannot remember ever hearing about a glazed 944 / 928 engine.

I'm not saying it isn't possible, just tossing this out there.