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Holber race car gets a new engine. Progress Report

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Old 08-06-2008, 05:09 PM
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mark kibort
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Naw, thats what i got the HP for! Push me and all the comfey weight around. Heck, if my times improve a lot, i might even invest in an old softy Cool-Suit!
I dont want my feet to cook, nor the fuse panel that is right above the headers. could cause some early cooked failures.

Mk

Originally Posted by FUSE69
Hi Mark,

I hope you're going to scrape off all that insulation from the firewall while the engine is pulled!

Tass928 posted on the 'weight savings' thread that all that junk is 10lbs!!

Best of luck with the build up
Old 08-06-2008, 05:16 PM
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mark kibort
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no port matching. However, It did look like the heads have been off. looks like aftermarket valve springs and a 2 way valve cut. (not 3 way, as maybe they didnt have the tool to match the last level) No port work was done. Ill get some measurements, but they look very stock.

So, before i oil'er up and bag'er, should i pull a piston for giggles? maybe #2 and take a look at the rod bearings?

New motor is the 6.4 liter and it will be fitted with the stock stuff, no mods. (no money= no mods)

The heads are ready from the shop, its 24 hours since i dropped them of and im going to pick them up! Ill post some pics.

should have the new motor finished this weekend.


mk

Originally Posted by Tom. M
Crack that girdle open..lets see some oiling pathways..and the crank oil pathway would be nice to see. So..amsoil is a high detergent oil...?

Either way...the Holbert motor was likely hand built under very tight tolerances..be interesting to get a few measurements off the bore/ring end gap/ etc..... Can you see any port matching/machining (intake or exhaust)?..

What is the final build of the new motor going to be? 6.4L with big valve heads?
Old 08-06-2008, 06:08 PM
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Maybe you should invest in a rear view camera so we can all get a good look at your opponent's faces during the next race.
Old 08-06-2008, 06:35 PM
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Fabio421
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
(no money= no mods)

mk
What!? No money? Where have you squandered all of that E-ram and American Gladiator residual money? I'm at a loss for words.

Jest kidding. Be carefull with the new engine. I look forward to seeing the upcoming video.
Old 08-06-2008, 08:22 PM
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mark kibort
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you mean like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdQtidVjgxA

No one knows unless they are cruising this list. sometimes the the SCCA ITE competitors visit here, but its been a while. Im not going to say a thing until after this thing lasts a practice or so!

mk




Originally Posted by whitefox
Maybe you should invest in a rear view camera so we can all get a good look at your opponent's faces during the next race.
Old 08-06-2008, 08:28 PM
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mark kibort
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BIG QUESTION! Torquing the Head Bolts. (not studs and nuts)

The manual says 20nm and then 90 degrees and 90 degrees angle torque. However, the manual for the early cars with nuts and studs, says 20nm, and then 90, 90 and then another 90 degrees!

My machine shop says that doesnt sound right, and says he thinks it should be the opposite.
Does anyone know for sure??

The heads are probably going on tonight and after that the engine will be completed over the weekend.

By the way, the heads look great. they fixed the 4 valves that were leaking and cleaned the rest as well as decking the surface .003" (not much) and yes, it is shinney new looking and the surface quality is RA30. (i.e. better than the recomended 50RA that the Cometic instructions and this list has advised )

mk



mk
Old 08-06-2008, 08:35 PM
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Thats a damn good question.
Old 08-06-2008, 08:36 PM
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Are you using the cometics? You should get some hylomar.
Old 08-06-2008, 08:37 PM
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mark kibort
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where do you get it?? is it like a spray adheasive that a speed shop will have?

thanks

mk

Originally Posted by BrendanC
Are you using the cometics? You should get some hylomar.
Old 08-06-2008, 08:41 PM
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For the levels you are running the two 90 deg turns should be fine, IMO,

The problem which you will run into is that if you overtorque them you will probably crack your heads internally and that is something you DONT want to do.
Old 08-06-2008, 08:44 PM
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great video; good luck and kick *** with the new motor!
Old 08-06-2008, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
where do you get it?? is it like a spray adheasive that a speed shop will have?

thanks

mk
You have to order it online. Look for Hylomar blue spray can.
Old 08-06-2008, 08:51 PM
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I am looking at alldata and the 5.0l is 20 then 90and90. For the early stud/nuts I see 20nm/50nm/85nm -leave preload for 30min then loosen all nuts 1/4 turn and then final tighten all to 85nm.
Old 08-06-2008, 08:55 PM
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Well, thats confusing.
Old 08-06-2008, 08:59 PM
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There is one in between. a later stud and nut version that used the angle torquing and shows 90 90 and then another 90!

anyone that has done this care to comment. an extra 90 is a LOT of extra force that I wouldnt want to be without!

mk

Originally Posted by soupcan928
I am looking at alldata and the 5.0l is 20 then 90and90. For the early stud/nuts I see 20nm/50nm/85nm -leave preload for 30min then loosen all nuts 1/4 turn and then final tighten all to 85nm.


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