borland

Great to watch the work of a master mechanic. Looks like you already renewed the steering rack bushings.

What are the "links" your using at the engine lift lugs? Instead of the 4x4's, did you consider using square tubing structural steel pieces from Home Depot?

On my 90' S4, besides the firewall clearances, watching the O2 sensor for clearance with the body is important when lifting the engine. I did the motor mounts, only to go back in 6 months later to do the pan gasket. Both times, I supported the engine from below at the clutch housing with separate jack stands and appropriate sized spacers; so I lifted the engine by lowering the body onto these jackstands, jacking from the rear lift points.

dr bob

The common tubing at my local Home Depot is largest 1.5" with 0.063 wall steel box. Not close to enough to hold the weight of the engine over the 3' span between the fenders, unlessmaybe you stacked a couple pieces at each end of the motor.

.......

For those playing along at home, seriously consider using the larger-footprint 6T stands when working at that height. The small footprint stands I have need less than 100lbs lateral force to start rolling off the stands at full extension. There's no forgiveness if the car lands on you. The bigger stands are cheap to buy.

Bill Ball

Very nice job! Excellent documentation.

Oh, I don't think you need the motor lift at the rear - you could have left the hood supports alone and just lifted the motor at the front, using the bracket on the water pump as the lift point. That's how I have seen in done in pro shops and how I have done it. The rear is well enough supported as it is.

borland

Yes Bill, that's the way we've seen it done, but since he's using both side lifting lugs, the weight is not equally distributed across the two 4x4 beems, but closer to the lug sides of the beams, so as I suggested he could get by with smaller cross beams, such as the square tubing, or as Dr. Bob seems to think something stronger.

Lets hope while he's under the car, a gust of wind doesn't come up while those extended jack stands are there. 6-ton stands would look better.

85fortheDrive

Dwayne:

You missed one step that I made sure I did. The step where the steering rack drops down and cracks me in the chin and I say, "You mother--"

Wait, no. That was after the new mounts were in. Whew, you can relax, you haven't gotten to it yet.

Keep up the great work. The photos are great. What year is your 928? A 2005?

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Dwayne,
You are a stud! I've done these things but you are the man!

Bill Ball

BTDT

Dwayne

OK....checking in and done for the night. Didn't finish but didn't really expect to. I got back to it after posting the pics around 4:00pm and worked for about 3 hours modifying the motor mounts - I went to buy a bench grinder and then had to set it up. I ground off the pin and shortened the bottom studs. Oh yeh, I also cleaned some more bolts, nuts and I cleaned the underside of the crossmember during this time.
At 7:30pm I started the reassembly and worked on it for about 2.5 hours. The good new is the crossmember and new mounts are in! The better news is the INFAMOUS crossmember support didn't give much of a fight so got those bolts in without too much effort. I figure I've got a few hours to go to complete. One thing that's slowing me down is I decided to take one of the lower control arms off to ease installation of the crossmember. It's putting up a fight trying to go back together with the lower shock mount. I'm sure I will prevail!
Thanks for the comments and the tips - I'm going to respond to a couple then hit the hay!

Dwayne

I bought it from Home Depot. It looks like a link in a chain but has a nut on one side that you can open and then connect it to the lift point. It's about 2" or 3" long and is rated at 2200 pounds. Let me know if you would like a close up pic and I'll post one.
I didn't really consider the steel option because I don't have many tools for working with it. Wood seemed to be the least expensive and easiest to work with. I would like to fabricate my own steel ones in the futre, though.

Dwayne

There's a bracket on the water pump?? If it's the one I think you are talking about, I've seen it in other pictures posted here for lifting the engine. I thought to myself "Cool, I can do this with one support bar!" So before I started, I went out to see if I could find it on our '84. I couldn't find it so figured it was only available on newer 928s and went with the 2 support approach since the lift points are on opposites sides of the engine and at opposite ends of the engine. Do all 928's have this center lift point at the water pump??

Dwayne

6-Ton Stands! Cool!! That sounds good to me - didn't know they made such a thing - I just bought the largest thing I could find a our local auto parts store and Wal-Mart. I wonder where I could find some of these heavy duty stands??

bernard farquart

Anywhere, you are in Ca, so Kragen, for one.

Landseer

Northern Tool, also, Harbor Freight here in the east.

Dwayne

I tried Kragen here but didn't find anything bigger than 3T - maybe they were out. I'll try again later or Harbor Freight sounds good - I'll be going to Lancaster in a few weeks and can stop by and check it out. THANKS for the leads!

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Great job Dwayne. BTW looking at your avatar, assuming that's you pulling your engine, wouldn't it have been easy to change MM's with the engine out? I've never pulled my engine so I don't know.