Vlocity

I have an 85 S that while still driven on the street has taken on more of a DE roll over the past few years. I have upgraded the suspension with Eibach's, adjustable koni shocks, heavy sway bar and poly bushings. Bettered the brakes by going to the S-4 brakes and front spindles and Pagid Black pads. Roll bar, Momo seats and 5 point harness. 11 inch rims with 315s in the rear an 9.5 with 275 in the front. I've converted the car from an automatic to a 5 speed with LSD. I finally then added power with an intercooled twinscrew...I only mention all of this to reflect that the car is turning some pretty quick laps in DE trim and as I improve as a driver I am reaching other limits including the oiling system. At Mid Ohio I have a best lap of 1:47.7 and can run 148s all day long on my old Kuhmo Victoracers. Last weekend I was at Putnam Park near Indianapolis and was able to run down the two GT3's and two ZO6's in my B run group. I was turning steady 1:25 and one of the instructors had me at a 1:23 early in the morning while the temps were low.

However.....I started to notice oil fluctuation in turn 4 ( left had sweeper) and turns 5 & 6 which are right turns....but I don't think the pan had refilled or pump caught up. Most of the time the drop was to 3 bar.....but enough to scare the crap out of me.

I already have a GT baffle, but I think it's time for an accusump.

I have searched the archives....but some of the post are pretty old and I would just like to get the groups advice on what to do and use. In addition to this I am thinking about putting in a seperate engine oil cooler and bypassing the radiator oil cooler. My main reason for this would be to reduce the load on the radiator since the water temp is between the last white line and red while on track in 90 degree ambient temps. The boosted motor has put a real strain on the stock system.

Some basic thoughts are use the 3 qt accusump with a sandwich adapter ... but I don't know what size adapter to order ?

I also plan on using an electric control valve and would quess that I want the valve that works in the 55-60 dump/reload range.

Is there any advantage in going from a 10 to 12 hose size?

Thanks for the your replys....


Ken

SwayBar

Next time you have your oil pan off, I recommend installing the Ishihara-Johnson crankscraper system. Once I did that, my Accusump barely got warm at Road America; just something to consider.

In case you don't have Accusump's instruction manual, and goto page 2:

http://www.accusump.com/accusump.pdf/instructions.pdf

You don't necessarily need a sandwich adapter as you can plumb right into your oil-in port at the block which is how mine is setup.

A greater volume of oil is delivered quicker.

Vlocity

Swaybar:

I have followed the posts on the Ishihara-Johnson setup and thought that over the winter I would pull the pan, do the rod bearings and look seriously into that system. But to get me through the next 1 or 2 DE's until then I thought that the Accusump would be a logical step.

So where is the oil in port and what size fitting is that?

Are you using the 55/60 valve?

Thanks,

Ken

IcemanG17

Accusump is a good next step......dry sump is ideal, but rare and pricey......However some racers (Kibort) run completely stock oil setups which basically no problems......a 3 qt accusump should be good enough to help.....& maybe an external oil cooler to go with it.....

SwayBar

I'm not sure which one it is, I can check tomorrow. But the plumbing for the Accusump and external oil cooler use the stock metal oil lines which connect to the engine, as well as the stock oil line fittings.

The Accusump uses a 'T' fitting which one end of the T connects to the oil-in port of the engine, and the other end of the T connects to the output of the oil cooler, and the bottom of the T is where the Accusump is plumbed in. There is also a one-way valve on the end of the T which connects to the output of the oil cooler.

As for fittings, I do not know any of the sizes.

I'm not sure since I do not know what that is.

Vlocity

Swaybar:

Thanks for the reply. So you are using a T connector in the return line with a check vlave so that when the accusump dumps the oil is directed toward the engine with no reversion toward the cooler.
Did you just cut the rubber line and clamp it? The other question then would be if the output line from the radiator is the top line or botoom line. I guess I can check that easily enough with a pyrometer and see which one has the lower temperature, but if you could check....that would be great.

I'd prefer not to use a sandwich adapter since my car is pretty low and that would place the filter an inch and half closer to the ground. I've learned that some people used a 944 filter instead of the 928 to minimize the height difference, but that is also a loss in filter capacity.

As for the valve there are several available combinations 20/25, 30/35 and 55/60, The low number is the pressure at which the accusump activates and dumps to the engine and the second is the pressure at which the accusump recharges the canister. The 55/60 looks to be the best option since it would maintain closer pressure to our 5 bar (75psi) normal operating conditions. I was seeing about 3 bar on the guage when I would take a quick glance after the turn apex over the weekend.

Thanks again for your advice....I am hoping some of the racers will still chime in.

Ken

SwayBar

That is correct.
There are no rubber lines being used, everything is braided steel.

From the Accusump which has the electric valve, it's output is directed to the bottom of the T, where at the bottom of the T is a 90 degree elbow which connects to the output of the Accusump.

Looking at the engine from the side, the top right of the T, via an adapter, is connected to the stock metal oil line and it's stock fitting, whose other end attaches to the block.

The top left of the T has the one-way valve attached to it, and the other end of the valve is attached to the output of the oil cooler.

I will check when I get home tonight.

I am not sure what valve I have. I am under the impression that the air pre-charge determines the pressure at which the oil is expelled. The Accusump and oil cooler were already on the car when I bought it, so maybe I'm not understanding correctly.

glork98

Something to be aware of is that the oil cooler lines are fed un-filtered oil. Going in there allows grit and bits into your accumulator.

Going to the outlet side of the oil filter has the benefits of having filitered oil going into the accumulator and better response. When pressure falls below the control pressure the oil goes directly into the supply passage. Also, those Porsche engineers tend to pick odd crap while the sandwich will have common AN fittings.

So you're thinking to use the electric valve with the presure sensor? I wish they had one with a different spread like 50 psi discharge and 65 psi charge. That'd keep the presure to 3bar and not charge until over 4bar.

Vlocity

I wondered about that.....unfiltered oil would be unacceptable, it wouldn't take much to scuff the teflon lining in the accusump.

[OK...good advice. So is the sandwich adapter 20 mm thread?

I think that if the refill side was higher there might be places where the accusump might not have time to refill before there was demand again.

I think for now I'll just go with the accusmp and worry about an oil cooler over the winter.

Thanks.....

Ken

mark kibort

what oil are you using???? (mobil 1??)

I have no cooler, just the factory radiator version and no accusump. 6 seasons of racing, 90 race days, and oil pressure always at 5 bar, even at 1G+ sweepers at 80mph by using amzoil. if not the oil qualities, its the anti foaming that could be the reason for the luck ive had (knock knock)

the times I am running are with in a second or so of the Mid pack Speed Touring cars at a track near you . (used to be the top time, now they are getting real fast) So, think of times like 1:34-5ish at Mid Ohio. I wouldnt worry about the accusump and coolers. we run in 105F temps at thunderhill every summer. again, my car and Scots car (He has NO oil Cooler at all!!!!) all run in the sub 280F oil temps worst case during the races. 260-270F ish at cooler tracks.
mk

Abby Normal

Mark, what oil do you run?

mark kibort

ONLY Amzoil (or redline )

NEVER Mobil 1. I used to run Kendal 20-50 racing but changed it every race weekend when I first started racing, but even with my old 5 liter part euro, it was redline or amzoil. mobil 1, on a hot day would turn to water under race conditions.

mk

BC

Can someone draw a diagram of how they have routed their Accusump?

Vlocity

Brendan.....Here is a link to a typical installation using a sandwich adapter.

The easy thing is that there is just one line...in/out.

http://www.accusump.com/acc_tech_diagrams.htmlMark: I have been using Castrol Synthetic 5w 50. I wanted to have just one oil to run in my 928 and 911. I probably would try Amsoil if there was somewhere to buy it......but there isn't anyone who carries it within 50 miles of here.

Regards,

Ken

BC

Thanks Ken. I bought this from Carl:

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/sandwichplate.php

And the fittings look a bit small. I was planning on an UP converter.