Console reconfiguration (Part II)
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Console reconfiguration (Part II)
Rather than piggyback on the last two threads over this, I am starting a fresh one.
I took the time this weekend to concentrate on getting things rolling with the console. I had stripped it down previously and now after measuring and such, I had to get in and start to make adjustments. I ended up taking out the passenger seat because it is easier to get in and out as well as needing to route wiring for certain components. I also found that the wire harness for the seat power controls was shredded from the seat track (wtf). I am leaving all of the wires and such that I will not use just in case someone down the road (in another life) may want to get the car back to stock...besides, removing this wiring does no good as it is really not in the way of anything. I had to remove the footwell actuator pod to fit the AVIC-D2 where I wanted. I have to devise an arm to work with the existing set up to relocate the actuator underneath or from the side/in back. I forget if there is an actuator that I can replace it with, that is normally NOT extended. That of course would make life really easy, but not a big issue
I had removed the "choke" otherwise known as the radio noise suppressor which is mounted to a plate. There is also a relay that is mounted on the same plate, but I can't figure out what this is for.
Moving these allowed for fitment of the HVAC and "Acknowledgement" bar. I will have to figure out where to relocate these items. BTW, I had mentioned in another thread, I had refurbished my HVAC unit with LED lighting and made a new fiber optics cable to feed the Fan **** which is now lit. I have 3 separate LED's in the HVAC unit to light it well. I had also installed an LED behind the "AC" button in the "Acknowledgement" bar. BIG DIFFERENCE in lighting. VERY COOL! I also installed LED's in all of the interior lights. The cluster and pod switches are next.
So as expected, I had to cut the original mounting tabs to fit the components where I wanted them. It worked out perfect as you can see in the pictures! Now I just have to make my permanent mounting surfaces and a support for the back of the AVIC-D2.
As for the area where the ash tray was, I will make a panel to hold the two rear AC ***** and a power point (phone charger, mobile devices....) After all are mounted and wired up and working properly, I will deal with a trim piece to match...which should be pretty easy to do.
I had removed the power amp as it is no longer needed. I need that space anyway as this area is where my Satellite receiver and IPOD interface unit will live. It looks like I will have to connect "through" with the input and output wires of the power amp that feed the speakers, so that should prove to be an interesting harness when it is done. I looked up the adjacent control unit in PET and can't find what this (as well as the console relay) is used for. (haven't gone to the WSM yet) Anyone want to give me an answer as to what they are for?
As for the antenna situation, if I had to use 3 antennas, I could hide the SIRIUS and GPS inside the rear hatch glass next to the 3rd brake light which would be a decent yet inconspicuous area. However, I have made contact with a company in China that is producing combination antenna's. I am in the process of negotiating with them at the moment for a possible large buy of these units. I of course need to evaluate a unit or two before I buy. They will send me 3-5 units to test before any commitments are made. This is great as I not only need one, but have found that there is a huge demand for these things in the US. This particular unit is for AM/FM, GPS and SIRIUS/XM. If anyone is interested in trying out one of the units, please PM me because I need testing done in a few different applications (they are not free!). As far as I can tell, it should replace the stock roof mast. Not sure if color matching to the car will affect it's strength.
So at this point, it appears that all will work out quite nicely as planned in achieving a contemporary yet stock (in the idea of how Porsche might have done it) look. I am pretty excited about how it is turning out. I just wish I had more time to work on this.
Comments of all kinds are always welcomed.
I took the time this weekend to concentrate on getting things rolling with the console. I had stripped it down previously and now after measuring and such, I had to get in and start to make adjustments. I ended up taking out the passenger seat because it is easier to get in and out as well as needing to route wiring for certain components. I also found that the wire harness for the seat power controls was shredded from the seat track (wtf). I am leaving all of the wires and such that I will not use just in case someone down the road (in another life) may want to get the car back to stock...besides, removing this wiring does no good as it is really not in the way of anything. I had to remove the footwell actuator pod to fit the AVIC-D2 where I wanted. I have to devise an arm to work with the existing set up to relocate the actuator underneath or from the side/in back. I forget if there is an actuator that I can replace it with, that is normally NOT extended. That of course would make life really easy, but not a big issue
I had removed the "choke" otherwise known as the radio noise suppressor which is mounted to a plate. There is also a relay that is mounted on the same plate, but I can't figure out what this is for.
Moving these allowed for fitment of the HVAC and "Acknowledgement" bar. I will have to figure out where to relocate these items. BTW, I had mentioned in another thread, I had refurbished my HVAC unit with LED lighting and made a new fiber optics cable to feed the Fan **** which is now lit. I have 3 separate LED's in the HVAC unit to light it well. I had also installed an LED behind the "AC" button in the "Acknowledgement" bar. BIG DIFFERENCE in lighting. VERY COOL! I also installed LED's in all of the interior lights. The cluster and pod switches are next.
So as expected, I had to cut the original mounting tabs to fit the components where I wanted them. It worked out perfect as you can see in the pictures! Now I just have to make my permanent mounting surfaces and a support for the back of the AVIC-D2.
As for the area where the ash tray was, I will make a panel to hold the two rear AC ***** and a power point (phone charger, mobile devices....) After all are mounted and wired up and working properly, I will deal with a trim piece to match...which should be pretty easy to do.
I had removed the power amp as it is no longer needed. I need that space anyway as this area is where my Satellite receiver and IPOD interface unit will live. It looks like I will have to connect "through" with the input and output wires of the power amp that feed the speakers, so that should prove to be an interesting harness when it is done. I looked up the adjacent control unit in PET and can't find what this (as well as the console relay) is used for. (haven't gone to the WSM yet) Anyone want to give me an answer as to what they are for?
As for the antenna situation, if I had to use 3 antennas, I could hide the SIRIUS and GPS inside the rear hatch glass next to the 3rd brake light which would be a decent yet inconspicuous area. However, I have made contact with a company in China that is producing combination antenna's. I am in the process of negotiating with them at the moment for a possible large buy of these units. I of course need to evaluate a unit or two before I buy. They will send me 3-5 units to test before any commitments are made. This is great as I not only need one, but have found that there is a huge demand for these things in the US. This particular unit is for AM/FM, GPS and SIRIUS/XM. If anyone is interested in trying out one of the units, please PM me because I need testing done in a few different applications (they are not free!). As far as I can tell, it should replace the stock roof mast. Not sure if color matching to the car will affect it's strength.
So at this point, it appears that all will work out quite nicely as planned in achieving a contemporary yet stock (in the idea of how Porsche might have done it) look. I am pretty excited about how it is turning out. I just wish I had more time to work on this.
Comments of all kinds are always welcomed.
#2
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It will be interesting to hear how it works out, the mounting angle as it may or may not impact screen visibility and disc reading. Looks like it's well on the way to being a very sweet setup if it all works out!
#3
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That controller next to the booster amp is the radiator fan speed and flap controller. The console relay is the seat belt warning.
Have you driven the car at night with the display installed to see how it reflects back at you in the windshield?
One recent trip back from San Diego, I noticed, while going thru the LA trafffic, a number of very small NAV displays mounted on the A-pillar. They must be getting inexpensive to see so many on one trip.
Have you driven the car at night with the display installed to see how it reflects back at you in the windshield?
One recent trip back from San Diego, I noticed, while going thru the LA trafffic, a number of very small NAV displays mounted on the A-pillar. They must be getting inexpensive to see so many on one trip.
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Keith - thats looking good - I like the flush mount look... Assume you are planning a narrow trim surround for all these when you are done...?
The general layout looks really practical... As noted its the fan controller pre-final stage under the sill cover and chime relay (belts, lights, key etc in console).
Moving the chime relay should be easy - the fan controller will be harder - many more connections and you'd have to move it further...
Alan
The general layout looks really practical... As noted its the fan controller pre-final stage under the sill cover and chime relay (belts, lights, key etc in console).
Moving the chime relay should be easy - the fan controller will be harder - many more connections and you'd have to move it further...
Alan
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This looks great, Keith!!!
I notice your console has the same alignment problem with the dash as mine. - mine always tends to sit a tad higher on the right and lower on the left.
I notice your console has the same alignment problem with the dash as mine. - mine always tends to sit a tad higher on the right and lower on the left.
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Keith,
Looking good. Nice progress there. The flush look is working better than I imagined. I'd love to be working on this too, but alas I have other more pressing projects right now. I hope to be developing mine rght on your heels. Keep the updates coming!
Looking good. Nice progress there. The flush look is working better than I imagined. I'd love to be working on this too, but alas I have other more pressing projects right now. I hope to be developing mine rght on your heels. Keep the updates coming!
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the mounting angle as it may or may not impact screen visibility and disc reading.
controller next to the booster amp is the radiator fan speed and flap controller. The console relay is the seat belt warning.
I like the flush mount look... Assume you are planning a narrow trim surround for all these when you are done...?
The general layout looks really practical...
Moving the chime relay should be easy - the fan controller will be harder - many more connections and you'd have to move it further...
The general layout looks really practical...
Moving the chime relay should be easy - the fan controller will be harder - many more connections and you'd have to move it further...
I notice your console has the same alignment problem with the dash as mine. - mine always tends to sit a tad higher on the right and lower on the left.
BTW, the trim piece on the AVIC-D2 is temporary, I just stuck it on there to give it all a more finished look.
As I had said in another post, If you look at the rear AC unit, it is flush mounted and I want to continue that same look on the console. I want to have the same black matt finish plastic on the entire console. Seems weird that they did do the rear AC this way, but no the console.
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Originally Posted by S4-on-your-back-door
LOOKS GREAT thats the same way I mounted my double din GPS just havent installed it yet
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Originally Posted by Nicole
This looks great, Keith!!!
I notice your console has the same alignment problem with the dash as mine. - mine always tends to sit a tad higher on the right and lower on the left.
I notice your console has the same alignment problem with the dash as mine. - mine always tends to sit a tad higher on the right and lower on the left.
Minne does the same also. Hmmm
Looks good keith!
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In further thinking and design, I wanted to bounce an idea out there that has been partially addressed before.
The rear AC is something that not many of us use. When and if we do, it might be once or twice a year. Removing the whole thing is not an option.
Alan had a good idea about relocating the controls to the driver side P-brake panel with a combination pot. I would like to keep the controls on the console.
Being that I have the room in the acknowledgement bar, is it/would it be possible to find some mini pots, switches or something to fit into these vacant areas to control the rear AC? I can start a search for this, but thought I would throw it out here first. Even something like the thumb disks used for the dimmer and delay switches on the pod...this was mentioned by someone before as well.
Take a look at the pics and see if you may know of something that can be used. This sure would save some space and minimize the big ol' ***** that get used once in a lifetime. By all accounts, this SHOULD be a pretty easy modification....no? It would save me from having to make a panel just for these controls. Without them, the console would look so much cleaner!
The rear AC is something that not many of us use. When and if we do, it might be once or twice a year. Removing the whole thing is not an option.
Alan had a good idea about relocating the controls to the driver side P-brake panel with a combination pot. I would like to keep the controls on the console.
Being that I have the room in the acknowledgement bar, is it/would it be possible to find some mini pots, switches or something to fit into these vacant areas to control the rear AC? I can start a search for this, but thought I would throw it out here first. Even something like the thumb disks used for the dimmer and delay switches on the pod...this was mentioned by someone before as well.
Take a look at the pics and see if you may know of something that can be used. This sure would save some space and minimize the big ol' ***** that get used once in a lifetime. By all accounts, this SHOULD be a pretty easy modification....no? It would save me from having to make a panel just for these controls. Without them, the console would look so much cleaner!
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That picture is worth a thousand words right there, Keith! There has to be a way for us to fit those in there. Is it a case of finding switches that fit, or just the *****? How big are those switch housings? Will they slip into the acknowledgement bar?
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Well Keith a few options:
(BTW I was not proposing you put the AC controls @ the handbrake - only to use that style dual ****)
1) Buy a sub-miniature rotary pot and sub-miniature rotary switch (1 pole 4 throw) both with mini *****. It would work like stock but would be fairly obviously aftermarket.
2) Hide the pot - set it to max cool and forget it - the rear AC only goes on (flow) if the fan is above 0. Use a switch that looks good - you should be able to fit a 3 way rocker at least (off/low/high) - you'd be missing one speed but does it really matter? Alternatively have 2 push button switches on/off & high/low...
3) Same as 3 but just have an on/off push button or rocker switch - maybe just off/full fan - probably covers 95% ofthe use anyway
Alan
(BTW I was not proposing you put the AC controls @ the handbrake - only to use that style dual ****)
1) Buy a sub-miniature rotary pot and sub-miniature rotary switch (1 pole 4 throw) both with mini *****. It would work like stock but would be fairly obviously aftermarket.
2) Hide the pot - set it to max cool and forget it - the rear AC only goes on (flow) if the fan is above 0. Use a switch that looks good - you should be able to fit a 3 way rocker at least (off/low/high) - you'd be missing one speed but does it really matter? Alternatively have 2 push button switches on/off & high/low...
3) Same as 3 but just have an on/off push button or rocker switch - maybe just off/full fan - probably covers 95% ofthe use anyway
Alan
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Keith - another option - get the digital wiper relay so you can free up your wiper rate pot - use that for the flow control & and insert a miniature rotary switch and mini-**** into the switch 'blank' right next to it... controls to hand - stock ('ish) look and yet still mostly hidden and all the orignial control features... you have to extend the wires up to the pod - but thats not so hard...?
You'd need to check the pot equivalency and that it has 3 terminals (I seem to recall it does).
Alan
You'd need to check the pot equivalency and that it has 3 terminals (I seem to recall it does).
Alan
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Andrew, the pots won't fit, otherwise you would hav seen the finished product from me already! The pots are about the diameter of a quarter. The space inside the bar is approximately 11mm maybe 12mm tops vertically. The circuit card you see is set up for other switches. Of course I wouldn't use them, but it must be taken into consideration that any drilling needs to be done rather carefully to avoid the metallic strips. I'm not sure if this circuit loops around, but there is no reason to destroy it.
Alan, nice out of the box thinking. I guess I was stuck on reproducing what is, on a smaller scale. The front AC works so well, that I never need the rear anyway...and NO ONE is going to sit back there. An ON/OFF switch would probably be sufficient, as use of the rear AC would just be to quickly help cool the interior down for a minute or two...even a 3 position rocker. Rockers would fit perfect in the bar...so would the thumb disk! Tell me more about the digital delay...even though I am happy with the analog version. It wouldn't be an issue to find a thumb disk for the flow control. There is a really cool electronics store in a business center not too far from me where I got my LED stuff. Lot's of nerds and geeks over there to help me on my quest.
Yep, decision has been made...and I just might use one switch to turn it on and off and not worry about temp control. SuuuuuweeeeeEEET!
ADDED: Now I have a void to fill! I guess I could just fit the ashtray back in, but why? I might be able to make a fitted panel/door that pops up for a power point and who knows what else!...maybe a slot to slip the IPOD into instead of locating it in the armrest of the console. hmmmmmm.......
Alan, nice out of the box thinking. I guess I was stuck on reproducing what is, on a smaller scale. The front AC works so well, that I never need the rear anyway...and NO ONE is going to sit back there. An ON/OFF switch would probably be sufficient, as use of the rear AC would just be to quickly help cool the interior down for a minute or two...even a 3 position rocker. Rockers would fit perfect in the bar...so would the thumb disk! Tell me more about the digital delay...even though I am happy with the analog version. It wouldn't be an issue to find a thumb disk for the flow control. There is a really cool electronics store in a business center not too far from me where I got my LED stuff. Lot's of nerds and geeks over there to help me on my quest.
Yep, decision has been made...and I just might use one switch to turn it on and off and not worry about temp control. SuuuuuweeeeeEEET!
ADDED: Now I have a void to fill! I guess I could just fit the ashtray back in, but why? I might be able to make a fitted panel/door that pops up for a power point and who knows what else!...maybe a slot to slip the IPOD into instead of locating it in the armrest of the console. hmmmmmm.......