The Twin Screw Thread
#1081
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by BrianG
Louie, it is doable, if not very easy, but what else could it be, other than the Regulator??
Pinching the outflow line maintains pressure, so it's getting past the regulator alright... the question is "is this a problem"?
Pinching the outflow line maintains pressure, so it's getting past the regulator alright... the question is "is this a problem"?
#1082
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We have determined that it is the regulator that causes the pressure leak-down. By pinching off the out-flow line from it, pressure is maintained.
The question is...... Does this matter?
The question is...... Does this matter?
#1083
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"The fuel pressure regulator is Dave Roberts' adjustable unit. After a few cycles of pumping the system will retain pressure at 45 lb for about 30 seconds and then bleed down to 20 lb and sit there. If I manually restrict the regulator outflow the system stays pressurized...."
Hi Brian,
If it will hold that 20psi for more than 1/2 hour, then I would think that would be OK to prevent fuel vapouirisation...
Hi Brian,
If it will hold that 20psi for more than 1/2 hour, then I would think that would be OK to prevent fuel vapouirisation...
#1084
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Hi Guys, as some of you already know I just acquired an 89 SG two weeks ago.
As soon as I turn the keys the fuel pump turns goes on. When I turn the car off the fuel pump stays on (even when the key is off the switch) and it turns off when the door is opened. I enclosed a pic of the fuse panel just in case. Is there a reason to have the fuel pump working directly? If not I would like to change it back to stock.
Also, what is the best way to fine tune the SG. I am running #30 injectors and RMB. The pulley is 6.5 lbs but the boost gauge shows 6 lbs. The ARM1 is at led 5-6 when the car is cold and idling. When warm it bounced from led 3 to 8 rapidly. On full throttle it goes to led 10. When I let the throttle off is goes to Led 1 for a little while. Is it normal to bounce between led 3-7 when engine is warm?
Since I am running #30 inj, should I upgrade to a BEGI or FMU? I have plans to upgrade to 8 lbs if someone has a pulley forsale? Where can I get a pulley to fit the eaton sg?
Thank you
As soon as I turn the keys the fuel pump turns goes on. When I turn the car off the fuel pump stays on (even when the key is off the switch) and it turns off when the door is opened. I enclosed a pic of the fuse panel just in case. Is there a reason to have the fuel pump working directly? If not I would like to change it back to stock.
Also, what is the best way to fine tune the SG. I am running #30 injectors and RMB. The pulley is 6.5 lbs but the boost gauge shows 6 lbs. The ARM1 is at led 5-6 when the car is cold and idling. When warm it bounced from led 3 to 8 rapidly. On full throttle it goes to led 10. When I let the throttle off is goes to Led 1 for a little while. Is it normal to bounce between led 3-7 when engine is warm?
Since I am running #30 inj, should I upgrade to a BEGI or FMU? I have plans to upgrade to 8 lbs if someone has a pulley forsale? Where can I get a pulley to fit the eaton sg?
Thank you
#1087
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Not a good one. You want the pump to turn off when the engine does, especially important if you are in an accident.
Originally Posted by Giovanni
Hi Guys, as some of you already know I just acquired an 89 SG two weeks ago.
As soon as I turn the keys the fuel pump turns goes on. When I turn the car off the fuel pump stays on (even when the key is off the switch) and it turns off when the door is opened. I enclosed a pic of the fuse panel just in case. Is there a reason to have the fuel pump working directly? If not I would like to change it back to stock.
Thank you
As soon as I turn the keys the fuel pump turns goes on. When I turn the car off the fuel pump stays on (even when the key is off the switch) and it turns off when the door is opened. I enclosed a pic of the fuse panel just in case. Is there a reason to have the fuel pump working directly? If not I would like to change it back to stock.
Thank you
#1088
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by Giovanni
Hi Guys, as some of you already know I just acquired an 89 SG two weeks ago.
As soon as I turn the keys the fuel pump turns goes on. When I turn the car off the fuel pump stays on (even when the key is off the switch) and it turns off when the door is opened. I enclosed a pic of the fuse panel just in case. Is there a reason to have the fuel pump working directly? If not I would like to change it back to stock.
Also, what is the best way to fine tune the SG. I am running #30 injectors and RMB. The pulley is 6.5 lbs but the boost gauge shows 6 lbs. The ARM1 is at led 5-6 when the car is cold and idling. When warm it bounced from led 3 to 8 rapidly. On full throttle it goes to led 10. When I let the throttle off is goes to Led 1 for a little while. Is it normal to bounce between led 3-7 when engine is warm?
Since I am running #30 inj, should I upgrade to a BEGI or FMU? I have plans to upgrade to 8 lbs if someone has a pulley forsale? Where can I get a pulley to fit the eaton sg?
Thank you
As soon as I turn the keys the fuel pump turns goes on. When I turn the car off the fuel pump stays on (even when the key is off the switch) and it turns off when the door is opened. I enclosed a pic of the fuse panel just in case. Is there a reason to have the fuel pump working directly? If not I would like to change it back to stock.
Also, what is the best way to fine tune the SG. I am running #30 injectors and RMB. The pulley is 6.5 lbs but the boost gauge shows 6 lbs. The ARM1 is at led 5-6 when the car is cold and idling. When warm it bounced from led 3 to 8 rapidly. On full throttle it goes to led 10. When I let the throttle off is goes to Led 1 for a little while. Is it normal to bounce between led 3-7 when engine is warm?
Since I am running #30 inj, should I upgrade to a BEGI or FMU? I have plans to upgrade to 8 lbs if someone has a pulley forsale? Where can I get a pulley to fit the eaton sg?
Thank you
I don't think it's a fuel pump, and I don't think you need to worry.
It's normal for the AFR meter to hunt while you're idling or driving. Under WOT it should not go all the way into the red on the high side (too rich). When you let up, it can go down low (lean), but it doesn't matter because the engine isn't under load. This, too, is normal.
You may need to do some tweaking to get the car leaner under WOT. I don't think Pete had a boost-adjustable rising-rate fuel pressure regulator, so your only choice would be to drop down to 24 lb. injectors.
I think a lot of us who have early Keel kits with stock chips would benefit from a SharkTuning session and custom chips...maybe along with a SuperMAF. Then the car should work fine with 30# injectors.
Is there any black "lint" around the supercharger or the intake manifold? The belt may be slipping, which would cause you to not get the full amount of boost. Is the idle stable? If you have any vacuum leaks, you might be leaking boost out of them.
But for the time being, nothing you say is any cause for alarm, IMO.
#1089
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Good point. Gio, what area of your Shark is the noise coming from?
Originally Posted by bd0nalds0n
Is there an intercooler? You may be hearing the *intercooler pump* running--and it's wired into the sunroof circuit--so it turns off when the doors open, just like the windows and sunroof continue to operate until you do the same.
I don't think it's a fuel pump, and I don't think you need to worry.
.
I don't think it's a fuel pump, and I don't think you need to worry.
.
#1090
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Gio,
Is your SC intercooled?? My IC pump is set up to run with key on and shuts off with key removed after the door is opened
Is your SC intercooled?? My IC pump is set up to run with key on and shuts off with key removed after the door is opened
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Originally Posted by Giovanni
Hi Guys, as some of you already know I just acquired an 89 SG two weeks ago.
As soon as I turn the keys the fuel pump turns goes on. When I turn the car off the fuel pump stays on (even when the key is off the switch) and it turns off when the door is opened. I enclosed a pic of the fuse panel just in case. Is there a reason to have the fuel pump working directly? If not I would like to change it back to stock.
Also, what is the best way to fine tune the SG. I am running #30 injectors and RMB. The pulley is 6.5 lbs but the boost gauge shows 6 lbs. The ARM1 is at led 5-6 when the car is cold and idling. When warm it bounced from led 3 to 8 rapidly. On full throttle it goes to led 10. When I let the throttle off is goes to Led 1 for a little while. Is it normal to bounce between led 3-7 when engine is warm?
Since I am running #30 inj, should I upgrade to a BEGI or FMU? I have plans to upgrade to 8 lbs if someone has a pulley forsale? Where can I get a pulley to fit the eaton sg?
Thank you
As soon as I turn the keys the fuel pump turns goes on. When I turn the car off the fuel pump stays on (even when the key is off the switch) and it turns off when the door is opened. I enclosed a pic of the fuse panel just in case. Is there a reason to have the fuel pump working directly? If not I would like to change it back to stock.
Also, what is the best way to fine tune the SG. I am running #30 injectors and RMB. The pulley is 6.5 lbs but the boost gauge shows 6 lbs. The ARM1 is at led 5-6 when the car is cold and idling. When warm it bounced from led 3 to 8 rapidly. On full throttle it goes to led 10. When I let the throttle off is goes to Led 1 for a little while. Is it normal to bounce between led 3-7 when engine is warm?
Since I am running #30 inj, should I upgrade to a BEGI or FMU? I have plans to upgrade to 8 lbs if someone has a pulley forsale? Where can I get a pulley to fit the eaton sg?
Thank you
#1091
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"You may need to do some tweaking to get the car leaner under WOT. I don't think Pete had a boost-adjustable rising-rate fuel pressure regulator, so your only choice would be to drop down to 24 lb. injectors." Would it be most cost efficient to hook up a Begi instead? Is there a difference between the BEGI and AFR or RRAFR? What size is the stock injectors?
Yes, the car does have an intercooler. I will check tonight to make sure if its the fuel pump or the i/c pump.
Anyone wants to trade their 8.5 lbs pulley for my 6.5 lbs?
Yes, the car does have an intercooler. I will check tonight to make sure if its the fuel pump or the i/c pump.
Anyone wants to trade their 8.5 lbs pulley for my 6.5 lbs?
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#1092
Under the Lift
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Gio:
I think Darien hit the nail on the head with the IC pump. It's installed in the passenger wheel well.
Stock injectors are 19#. Somebody else can explain the BEGI versus RRFPR. The 85-6 FPR Andy uses in the kit seems to work fine for me at 5 PSI, although when I added an X-pipe I changed over the RRFPR to get more pressure at the top, intended to prevent going lean.
I think Darien hit the nail on the head with the IC pump. It's installed in the passenger wheel well.
Stock injectors are 19#. Somebody else can explain the BEGI versus RRFPR. The 85-6 FPR Andy uses in the kit seems to work fine for me at 5 PSI, although when I added an X-pipe I changed over the RRFPR to get more pressure at the top, intended to prevent going lean.
#1093
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Hi all,
I am running 6.5 lbs pulley, eaton sg/intercooler and #30 injectors. Should I add a BEGI to get optimum power? I plan on running 8-8.5 boost as soon as I can get a pulley (anyone has one for sale ). What is the difference between a BEGI and RRFPR? Does anyone has a BEGI for sale? I seen a few on ebay going for $125. Is that a good price?
I am running 6.5 lbs pulley, eaton sg/intercooler and #30 injectors. Should I add a BEGI to get optimum power? I plan on running 8-8.5 boost as soon as I can get a pulley (anyone has one for sale ). What is the difference between a BEGI and RRFPR? Does anyone has a BEGI for sale? I seen a few on ebay going for $125. Is that a good price?
#1094
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by Giovanni
Hi all,
I am running 6.5 lbs pulley, eaton sg/intercooler and #30 injectors. Should I add a BEGI to get optimum power? I plan on running 8-8.5 boost as soon as I can get a pulley (anyone has one for sale ). What is the difference between a BEGI and RRFPR? Does anyone has a BEGI for sale? I seen a few on ebay going for $125. Is that a good price?
I am running 6.5 lbs pulley, eaton sg/intercooler and #30 injectors. Should I add a BEGI to get optimum power? I plan on running 8-8.5 boost as soon as I can get a pulley (anyone has one for sale ). What is the difference between a BEGI and RRFPR? Does anyone has a BEGI for sale? I seen a few on ebay going for $125. Is that a good price?