But I thought it was locked at the rear.

 

I think we should recheck a few things,
First on a 5 speed you have 3 pinch bolts .
a front bolt and a rear front bolt, both of these are in the front coupler clamp.

And then a rear pinch bolt this is in the clamp that anchors the driveshaft to the input shaft of the trans axle

So first you need to remove the rear pinch bolt at the trans axle and verify that the driveshaft is centered in the cutout.
once that done then you can install the pinchbolt torque to 66 ft lbs use a drop of blue loctite on the bolt threads.
then you move the front ,
position the stub shaft so you can see the line that you drew when you did the mockup at the rear of the guide tube ,
that indicates the stub is not bottomed out in the pilot bearing.
slide the coupler forward over the stub till it lines up to the cutout on the stub then it should be lined up at the rear coupler bolt

 

Thanks. I did pull the rear pinch bolt and it was properly aligned. It didn't require much force to remove it. I'll play with it some more this week. I need my jack stands to work on another car.

 

I wonder if the driveshaft has been replaced with a incorrect part

 

It went together properly a few times before this. I'll try sliding it forward.

 

But I remember the clearance between the stub axle and the main shaft remained unchanged to the eye and finger.

 

get a brighter flashlight maybe you cant see the cutout because its dark

 

Its was my mistake. The clearance between the stub and main shaft was wrong. Turns out the stub wasn't even touching the pilot bearing. I found out after dropping everything out again. I thought the PB wasn't seated flush. Now it's all lined up but I ran out of time. Neighbors hate clanging after 8pm. It's so easy when the shims are installed!!!
Now I know.

 

make sure to mock up the stub shaft with the guide tube as I previously outlined,
it would have prevented this from happening

 

I did and marked the stub but it rubbed off and for some reason I thought it was set much further back than it really was. Further complicated because it wouldn't move forward any further which made me think the PB wasn't seated. Anyway all it good and aligned now. Just pray for no rain today and tomorrow. Hate working on my back with cold rain water mixed with car fluids running down my arms and dripping in my face.

 

Clutch assembly torqued to specs.
Slave cylinder had rust and bore score. I cleaned and sanded and replaced the seals.
Exhaust back on now bleeding it.
I've had much luck bleeding the 944s but this is not fun especially considering the limited space to open the door. I have to bring in the power bleeder.

 

I keep getting about 2 inches of pressure with the power bleeder. I'll try the caliper/reverse bleed method next.

 

if you have replaced the flex/ and hard line combo that goes to the slave with a longer flex line bleeding is a snap.
the flex line should go from the sway bar connection to the slave.

To bleed the system
with the slave attached ,open the bleeder till most of the air comes out ,
then remove the slave from the bell housing ,
let it hang down so the line banjo is uppermost then press the slave pushrod all the way in slowly and hold it for about 30 seconds.
repeat this process 3 times,
then reinstall the slave you should have a good pedal.

 

No new flex line. What worked was unbolting the slave. 15psi, watch the bubbles come out pumped the pedal a few times, got a constant stream from the bleeder, depressurized and hard pedal with 1/2 of play at the top. Think that's perfect. Next get the reverse lights working. Power everywhere except at the lights.

 

All back together and running smoothly. However just as I originally thought the TT bearings are also noisy.
Clutch in quiet. No clutch noise