Mrmerlin

do you have the 3 spacers on the PP to hold it open this will give you more room otherwise it sounds like you have mismatched parts

Michael Benno

+1 on Stan says.

Check out the WSM section 30 - 6b (REMOVING AND INSTALLING SINGLE-DISK CLUTCH '87 MODELS ONWARD) you need these in the PP to create the space to get the fork on the ball

rufrob

No Marvel Mystery oil here. I used a bench vice and small tool to slowly compress the piston with some carburetor/intake cleaner and they all except for 1 started moving. The 1 I hit with a hammer anchor which collapsed the lifter. Stills pleased. Put the valve train loosely together was satisfying.

rufrob

Thanks. I thought/hoped I could get around it because it came out without the shims without much effort. The difference is TOB. Not much articulation.
I asked my friendly neighborhood Porsche shop and they don't have those shims so I'll have to make them myself.

rufrob

Ok. I made some shims according to the specs in the WSM. However the space to put them is about half of what the shims are.

Mrmerlin

you may have to use a press to force the PP open enough to place the shims,
I put a dab of contact cement on the shims so they wont fall out if the PP should become unloaded.
Then put the PP onto the flywheel with the bolts loose,
then fit the arm to the bushing.

I put the bushing on the ball first,
I use a dremel to open it up some so its easier to press onto the ball,
then the release arm will press onto the bushing.

I dont recall seeing a threaded fastener ( stud) to secure the bell housing to the TT,
I thought they were all bolts.

NOTE it also appears you did not do a mockup of the stub shaft to set the tip into pilot bearing depth.

I put the guide tube and the stub shaft into the pilot bearing,
then attach the guide tube ,
then press the stub all the way forward,
then pull it out 3 MM.
then make a mark on the aft side of the stub shaft. where it comes out the back of the guide tube.

NOTE this will make it easy for you set the stub depth into the pilot bearing with the clutch pack installed.
so the tip of the stub shaft is centered in the pilot bearing.

NOTE you dont want the stub to be bottomed into the pilot bearing,
as this could damage the bearing with a side load and cause the bearing the fail.,
as the driveshaft also expands and contracts as loads are added then removed to the shaft.

rufrob

Thanks for the info. So basically I'll have to pull the assembly again put the PP on a hydraulic press to install the shims. Then I'll be able to install everything smoothly?

rufrob

Or can I hammer a strong screwdriver in and leverage the shims in?

Michael Benno

I used a ratcheting tie-down strap to help. one end s-hook in the divot on the bottom of the release fork and the other end of the strap on the rear cross member.

this will allow you to compress the pp enough to insert each shim.

i found i had pull tension on the strap enough to insert the shim and then release a little to let the pp grip the shim. Then turn the engine/pp to the next position.

let me know if this makes sense otherwise i can find you a picture from my archive

rufrob

Pic would be great. First find a ratchet strap.
I'm working on my back with about 1inch of clearance between my face and the floor pan. Is that enough space to work.

Michael Benno

I've been there and done that, and I agree it's no fun. It's definitely worth the extra effort if you can get the car higher, especially with clutch work.I checked through all my photos and was not able to find anything showing the tie-down strap. I recommend you go and pick one up. I used these. I find it extremely helpful with clutch work for both removal and installation.

Mrmerlin

the car should be up about 24 inches or more from the belly to the ground.

rufrob

Thank you sooooo much. The ratchet strap worked. Looped it around the top and bottom of the arm and the rear subframe. Next rebuild the slave cylinder and put it back together.

rufrob

Ran into another issue. Can't find the notch for the rear pinch bolt on the torque tube shaft? I know the shaft didn't move nor did the coupler on the shaft since it was only slid back and forth. Further there is only 1 access hole. So WTF? The front and rear bolts are the same.

Mrmerlin

so you probably pushed the driveshaft back when you were sliding back the front coupler,
its common for the driveshaft to be able to slide in the support bearings esp if they are the originals