Project 87-
#106
Team Owner
do you have the 3 spacers on the PP to hold it open this will give you more room otherwise it sounds like you have mismatched parts
#107
Rennlist Member
Check out the WSM section 30 - 6b (REMOVING AND INSTALLING SINGLE-DISK CLUTCH '87 MODELS ONWARD) you need these in the PP to create the space to get the fork on the ball
#108
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Jersey_Sam
Rob, i use Marvel mystery oil. after using multiple chemicals/oils, Marvel works the best. Use it on earlier porsche (65-69) with 50 years of rust and it frees everything up.
Not sure if you can find that stuff in Japan, but i hope you do.
Still at it, huh? good job. almost there.
Not sure if you can find that stuff in Japan, but i hope you do.
Still at it, huh? good job. almost there.
#109
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Michael Benno
+1 on Stan says.
Check out the WSM section 30 - 6b (REMOVING AND INSTALLING SINGLE-DISK CLUTCH '87 MODELS ONWARD) you need these in the PP to create the space to get the fork on the ball
Check out the WSM section 30 - 6b (REMOVING AND INSTALLING SINGLE-DISK CLUTCH '87 MODELS ONWARD) you need these in the PP to create the space to get the fork on the ball
I asked my friendly neighborhood Porsche shop and they don't have those shims so I'll have to make them myself.
#111
Team Owner
you may have to use a press to force the PP open enough to place the shims,
I put a dab of contact cement on the shims so they wont fall out if the PP should become unloaded.
Then put the PP onto the flywheel with the bolts loose,
then fit the arm to the bushing.
I put the bushing on the ball first,
I use a dremel to open it up some so its easier to press onto the ball,
then the release arm will press onto the bushing.
I dont recall seeing a threaded fastener ( stud) to secure the bell housing to the TT,
I thought they were all bolts.
NOTE it also appears you did not do a mockup of the stub shaft to set the tip into pilot bearing depth.
I put the guide tube and the stub shaft into the pilot bearing,
then attach the guide tube ,
then press the stub all the way forward,
then pull it out 3 MM.
then make a mark on the aft side of the stub shaft. where it comes out the back of the guide tube.
NOTE this will make it easy for you set the stub depth into the pilot bearing with the clutch pack installed.
so the tip of the stub shaft is centered in the pilot bearing.
NOTE you dont want the stub to be bottomed into the pilot bearing,
as this could damage the bearing with a side load and cause the bearing the fail.,
as the driveshaft also expands and contracts as loads are added then removed to the shaft.
I put a dab of contact cement on the shims so they wont fall out if the PP should become unloaded.
Then put the PP onto the flywheel with the bolts loose,
then fit the arm to the bushing.
I put the bushing on the ball first,
I use a dremel to open it up some so its easier to press onto the ball,
then the release arm will press onto the bushing.
I dont recall seeing a threaded fastener ( stud) to secure the bell housing to the TT,
I thought they were all bolts.
NOTE it also appears you did not do a mockup of the stub shaft to set the tip into pilot bearing depth.
I put the guide tube and the stub shaft into the pilot bearing,
then attach the guide tube ,
then press the stub all the way forward,
then pull it out 3 MM.
then make a mark on the aft side of the stub shaft. where it comes out the back of the guide tube.
NOTE this will make it easy for you set the stub depth into the pilot bearing with the clutch pack installed.
so the tip of the stub shaft is centered in the pilot bearing.
NOTE you dont want the stub to be bottomed into the pilot bearing,
as this could damage the bearing with a side load and cause the bearing the fail.,
as the driveshaft also expands and contracts as loads are added then removed to the shaft.
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 03-31-2024 at 10:15 AM.
#112
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info. So basically I'll have to pull the assembly again put the PP on a hydraulic press to install the shims. Then I'll be able to install everything smoothly?
#114
Rennlist Member
I used a ratcheting tie-down strap to help. one end s-hook in the divot on the bottom of the release fork and the other end of the strap on the rear cross member.
this will allow you to compress the pp enough to insert each shim.
i found i had pull tension on the strap enough to insert the shim and then release a little to let the pp grip the shim. Then turn the engine/pp to the next position.
let me know if this makes sense otherwise i can find you a picture from my archive
this will allow you to compress the pp enough to insert each shim.
i found i had pull tension on the strap enough to insert the shim and then release a little to let the pp grip the shim. Then turn the engine/pp to the next position.
let me know if this makes sense otherwise i can find you a picture from my archive
#115
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Pic would be great. First find a ratchet strap.
I'm working on my back with about 1inch of clearance between my face and the floor pan. Is that enough space to work.
I'm working on my back with about 1inch of clearance between my face and the floor pan. Is that enough space to work.
#116
Rennlist Member
#117
Team Owner
the car should be up about 24 inches or more from the belly to the ground.
#118
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thank you sooooo much. The ratchet strap worked. Looped it around the top and bottom of the arm and the rear subframe. Next rebuild the slave cylinder and put it back together.
The following users liked this post:
Michael Benno (04-02-2024)
#119
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Ran into another issue. Can't find the notch for the rear pinch bolt on the torque tube shaft? I know the shaft didn't move nor did the coupler on the shaft since it was only slid back and forth. Further there is only 1 access hole. So WTF? The front and rear bolts are the same.
#120
Team Owner
so you probably pushed the driveshaft back when you were sliding back the front coupler,
its common for the driveshaft to be able to slide in the support bearings esp if they are the originals
its common for the driveshaft to be able to slide in the support bearings esp if they are the originals