Project 87-
01-18-2024, 09:15 PM
#61
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hi. Thanks for your support and input. I didn't have another LH to swap.
I tried one of those cheap universal fuel level senders that worked and fit after drilling a hole in it for the return line. However I couldn't figure out how to get the low fuel warning light off, which is necessary to pass the inspection.
I tried one of those cheap universal fuel level senders that worked and fit after drilling a hole in it for the return line. However I couldn't figure out how to get the low fuel warning light off, which is necessary to pass the inspection.
01-19-2024, 05:42 AM
#62
Instructor
fuel level sender
NOTE on an old sender make sure to inspect the return line as it could be full of rust this will be rinsed into the bottom of the tank once the part is put back into service.
I recommend that this part be replaced if any corrosion is found in the tube.
NOTE if using the 944 sender it has two ports one for the return from the engine and the other a vent port.
The vent port is usually capped with a rubber plug.
NOTE make sure to properly cap off the return port with a clamped hose.
Please understand that the sender is sometimes supplied with a rubber dust cap over this return port,
this is not a safe cap off for this port.
NOTE when the tank is full the sender is fully submerged. if the rubber cap should be pushed off,
a full tank will drain about 2.5 gallons of fuel out, this could cause a garage to burn down.
I recommend that this part be replaced if any corrosion is found in the tube.
NOTE if using the 944 sender it has two ports one for the return from the engine and the other a vent port.
The vent port is usually capped with a rubber plug.
NOTE make sure to properly cap off the return port with a clamped hose.
Please understand that the sender is sometimes supplied with a rubber dust cap over this return port,
this is not a safe cap off for this port.
NOTE when the tank is full the sender is fully submerged. if the rubber cap should be pushed off,
a full tank will drain about 2.5 gallons of fuel out, this could cause a garage to burn down.
Last edited by Jersey_Sam; 01-19-2024 at 05:54 AM. Reason: editing
01-19-2024, 07:42 PM
#64
Team Owner
^^^^ DOH just buy a new one, dont be a dork ?
01-23-2024, 02:22 AM
#65
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Cheap dork I am. They are about $300 here. Used there unavailable. If it were my car, new everything. But it's not...yet.
ECUs came back and it would not start. First no FP. Fuse blown, replaced ok. Still no start. Check for power at the injectors yes. Still won't start. Then I noticed the throttle linkage was tight. Loosened it to close the throttle plate and boom it started. Took a while for the exhaust to clear. Sounds like marbles. Guess the TT is lol for some attention
ECUs came back and it would not start. First no FP. Fuse blown, replaced ok. Still no start. Check for power at the injectors yes. Still won't start. Then I noticed the throttle linkage was tight. Loosened it to close the throttle plate and boom it started. Took a while for the exhaust to clear. Sounds like marbles. Guess the TT is lol for some attention
The following 2 users liked this post by rufrob:
928cs (01-23-2024),
slownrusty (01-23-2024)
01-23-2024, 10:07 AM
#68
Team Owner
yes, Great it runs .
I suggest you shut it off and finish the intake refresh,
disconnect the battery.
At this point you could damage your fresh computers with the shorting knock sensors and possibly shorted hall sensor.
if this is an auto make sure to check the flex plate as it sounds like it could be loaded/dragging,
if a 5 speed then the TT bearings might be making noise.
Make sure to check the charging voltage it should be 13.5 to 14.2 V if its higher,
then replace the voltage regulator use only Bosch parts.
NOTE working on a budget is fine ,
but cutting corners with cheaper parts is a recipe for failure with this machine.
I suggest to fix the car properly or let someone else do it .
Otherwise you will be retracing your efforts,
poor workmanship has ruined many 928s
I suggest you shut it off and finish the intake refresh,
disconnect the battery.
At this point you could damage your fresh computers with the shorting knock sensors and possibly shorted hall sensor.
if this is an auto make sure to check the flex plate as it sounds like it could be loaded/dragging,
if a 5 speed then the TT bearings might be making noise.
Make sure to check the charging voltage it should be 13.5 to 14.2 V if its higher,
then replace the voltage regulator use only Bosch parts.
NOTE working on a budget is fine ,
but cutting corners with cheaper parts is a recipe for failure with this machine.
I suggest to fix the car properly or let someone else do it .
Otherwise you will be retracing your efforts,
poor workmanship has ruined many 928s
01-23-2024, 05:37 PM
#69
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I get it. Trust me. I've had several 928s that have gone on to very happy lives after my ownership.
I really want to do the timing belt and water pump. The last time a customer said don't do it it failed a few months later.
I really want to do the timing belt and water pump. The last time a customer said don't do it it failed a few months later.
01-23-2024, 06:06 PM
#70
Team Owner
please post pictures of the timing belt run before you take the belt off,
this will make it easier to spot potential issues.
this will make it easier to spot potential issues.
01-27-2024, 09:31 PM
#72
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
At 45
Looks to be in good condition. Pump looks old and the idle bearing is noisy. But the tensioner boot is soft. All indicate it was done maybe in the last 5 years? What says the brain trust?
Massive cleaning next. The cams pulleys were removed so I can assume the cam seals were done. No oil leaks behind the timing covers.
Looks to be in good condition. Pump looks old and the idle bearing is noisy. But the tensioner boot is soft. All indicate it was done maybe in the last 5 years? What says the brain trust?
Massive cleaning next. The cams pulleys were removed so I can assume the cam seals were done. No oil leaks behind the timing covers.
01-28-2024, 12:10 AM
#73
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Finally got the mangled oil drain plug off. The oil smells terrible, rancid and like gas. Guess the open injectors washed the cylinders and dumped fuel into the oil.
01-28-2024, 10:47 AM
#74
Team Owner
the belt run looks like the belt is running in the correct locations.
It is dirty but looks more like its seen a few dry wet cycles thus the corrosion maybe from a salty area.
NOTE I would check the cam timing with a Porkentool
The oil pump gear looks aluminum the updated part is steel.
The alu gears crack.
Plug wires are done replace them with a new set of Beru, the good set is plug and play.
Definitely replace the tensioner roller and the idler roller as well as the bearings in the belt rollers under the crank.
get atleast one new thrust washer for the belt guide on the crank.
the rear guide washer is usually good till you damage it removing it, then you need two.
Replace the tensioner gasket and the boot and clamp.
Fit a new WP and gasket with new bolts.
replace the T stat and rear seal O ring and put on a new coolant cap and HCV and short hose.
Inspect all the hoses that connect to the water bridge look for holes inside the hoses from the retaining bungs,
Use Porsche hoses then you can keep the original clamps.
NOTE I usually replace all the hoses on the WB.
Inspect the PS hoses now is the time to refresh them, as well as swap in a new tank.
Remove the radiator and flush it out.
It is dirty but looks more like its seen a few dry wet cycles thus the corrosion maybe from a salty area.
NOTE I would check the cam timing with a Porkentool
The oil pump gear looks aluminum the updated part is steel.
The alu gears crack.
Plug wires are done replace them with a new set of Beru, the good set is plug and play.
Definitely replace the tensioner roller and the idler roller as well as the bearings in the belt rollers under the crank.
get atleast one new thrust washer for the belt guide on the crank.
the rear guide washer is usually good till you damage it removing it, then you need two.
Replace the tensioner gasket and the boot and clamp.
Fit a new WP and gasket with new bolts.
replace the T stat and rear seal O ring and put on a new coolant cap and HCV and short hose.
Inspect all the hoses that connect to the water bridge look for holes inside the hoses from the retaining bungs,
Use Porsche hoses then you can keep the original clamps.
NOTE I usually replace all the hoses on the WB.
Inspect the PS hoses now is the time to refresh them, as well as swap in a new tank.
Remove the radiator and flush it out.
The following users liked this post:
WestInc (02-01-2024)
02-01-2024, 07:50 PM
#75
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks. Replaced the knock and CPS sensors yesterday. Took a lot longer than I expected because, you guessed it, the CPS was seized. Took about 2 hours of wiggling, jiggling and
levering.
The new timing belt and parts should arrive today for work on Saturday.
Beginning to think this is better long term investment than my E34 M5.
levering.
The new timing belt and parts should arrive today for work on Saturday.
Beginning to think this is better long term investment than my E34 M5.
The following users liked this post:
Jersey_Sam (02-05-2024)