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been getting a tail lamp warning , after i went through both tail lamps and added deoxit and some fresh bulbs its still doing it.
So off with the rear PU, push out the ground wire pins on both of the light harnesses,
sure enough one of the brown wires has pulled free,
soldered it back,
NOTE this is a pretty common issue on the early cars and its usually the right side.
I repaired the 2 studs on the lower right light housing and cleaned everything , and added anti seize to the bumper studs.
Well I have been doing debugging work,
I got another fuel sender the first part had no continuity it had broken wires .
I fixed the gauges working, after fiddling with the connections having super glue on them,
Some funky operations due to a worn ignition switch, new part installed.
RnR the rear PU to fix the R lamp housing and the ground wires,
this got rid of the brake warning every time stepping on the brakes.
screwed around with and replaced the resistor pack to get the HVAC system working,
since the original fan had a seized lower bushing, it overheated and damaged the resistor pack,
so this was an unseen failed part, now fixed with a good used part from 928 INTL thanks Mark !
I added new door speakers so the stereo would work,they sound good and are a hair thicker than the old versions.
Then after a few cycles of L door panel removal I fixed the locking L door issue when opening from the inside by ,
replacing the left inner door latch with an updated part,
and adding a new outer door catch,
now no more door looks when pulling the opening handle.
Also got some touch up paint and fixed many of the paint issues, also need to pay a visit to the PDR guy
last thing is a buff and wax that happens after an alignment and miles are put on it
Next onto the alignment rack and inspection sticker.
Alignment is done now the car tracks straight and feels planted.
Got a few small dents in the LR quarter panel for the PDR guy,
just waiting for them to get the car in,
NOTE we had a hail storm here in the local area , it didnt do any damage to the cars at my house,
the black car was also covered,
but many cars to the west of us were damaged and the PDR guys have been busy for months.
Also readjusted the sunroof one of the corners was low,
and with the liner out an opportunity to lubricate the rear tracks, now it runs good,
reglued the inner edges of the sliding roof liner so it wont jamb
I did a wheel swap it looks pretty darn good 17 inch turbo twist Milles
Definitely heavier than the forged BBS 18 inchers though.
Still Fixing the last few bugs, its a really cool machine,
its not super fast like a Euro,
but as the RPMs build the car seems to gather speed rapidly,
the brakes are starting to bed in and feel good the suspension is as well.
Still only have under 200 miles since its back on the road, just been busy working on other things.
Stan, That car looks very nice! Considering all the work you’ve documented, and all the work you didn’t document, I would expect it to be nothing short of awesome! Very nicely done!
In my ongoing debugging process I found a few more issues,
I had to replace the starter as it would not crank once it got hot, fresh Bosch reman unit installed fixed it.
then biggest one was a LR wheel bearing that made noise only when coasting.
It sounded like a dragging E brake or something hitting the rotor.
Anyway I finally decided to take it apart as nothing was amiss on inspecting the LR hub/ brakes assembly
I removed the hub from the car this is actually a pretty easy thing to do then cleaned it up prior to heating with the Mapp gas torch
My handy HF press was used to press out the flange with some creative stacking to get the flange out.
Once that was out I found the issue a section of the inner bearing race had rusted as well as one ball.
Heating the hub to 250 F the old bearing fell out,
new one was a small battle on the install even though it was frozen,
once the new bearing got past half way it too fell into place.
All is good. nice and quiet on running.
I also replaced both rear fuel regulators,
as one time the car seemed like it had flooded, after a smell test
one of the vacuum lines smelled like fuel. so those are also done.
Some hanky panky with the trip odometer where it would count up to 100 miles then stop.
Odometer operation was still working as I did replace the gear,
so the pod comes out again I sanded down the stop rod for the reset wheels ,
it had some corrosion on it and lubricated the odometer number wheels.
bench testing proves it working so back together.
Cleaned up hub prior to heating , and after old bearing removal. See the rusted area, cut a slice in the race then hit with a chisel and hammer it comes right off
08-28-2021, 10:38 AM
