Mrmerlin

I could use some assistance , on my 1982,
I found an issue with the drivers door latching assembly.
I close the door , drive the car ,
then go to open the door,
and sometimes instead of the door opening,
the lock **** goes down and the door then locks while the door cable is being pulled.
this activates the the other door lock as well.

I got another latch inside assembly and have been messing with this part as well,
both of the latches seem to demonstrate the same issues.
the motors appear to be properly adjusted,
the white door lock control link is good, so is the door lock
the door handle cable has been adjusted tighter and looser ,
the latches are dripping wet in lubricant,
The only thing I notice is the outer door latch could be causing the bind when the bolts are tightened,
If I leave them loose then this issue is reduced,
BUT leaving them loose will damage the door as the collars will slide about in the door openings.
The outer latches are the later versions,
NOTE this car has electric door latch motors.

Anyway I am open to anyone thats found this issue and fixed it, providing some guidance.
Thanks,
Stan

The Forgotten On

My 81 does the same thing on the driver's side. Door lock motors were adjusted to spec as well per the WSM.

It'll usually do it after I open and close the door twice.

I personally attribute it to the whole assembly wearing and causing some minor binding so I'm replacing it with a NOS part.

Kiln_Red

Stan, have you tried adjusting the striker or shimming out the outer latch. I've run in to this before and, in my case, my latch/striker alignment was causing the screwy locking commands.

gbgastowers

Petza914

Stan, if you weren't such a stickler for originality, you could fix this with a $30 kit from Amazon and have key fob remote locking and unlocking.

The resistance supplied by the linear actuators would likely perevent the lock from moving in the wrong direction when you pull the interior handle which would solve the issue.

Hope you get it sorted

Mrmerlin

Thanks for all the info ,
I went ahead and ordered the updated inner latch assembly as well as the outer latch assembly,
and the metal rod attachment clip.

Pete thanks for the pictures if your interested you could procure these clips to tighten up the actuator rod assembly ,
the clips are what holds the lock **** rod into the latch. it looks like they might work for your assembly as well
here is the part number
993 531 563 00
Pete also after looking at your posted picture,
I would suggest that you put some silicone sealant on the wires coming out of the door edge lamps,
make sure to clean the connectors first as the boot can fill with water and corrode the connections,
this can happen every time the car gets washed

Hey_Allen

Slightly off topic, but do you possibly have any pictures of how you attached that actuator to the lock mechanism?
I have a 78 which doesn't seem to have any lock automation, and I'm thinking to add remote locks to reduce wear on the lock cylinders.

I've already had to replace the driver's door lock due to a broken cylinder linkage, and would love to prevent another.

Petza914

My last picture to Stan actually showed it. The end of the metal rod that comes with the aftermarket actuator goes through that hole in the door lock assembly. Pushing it up unlocks it and and pulling it down to rotate it clockwise (from inside the car) locks it. It's that long metal rod and hole it's hooked through.



Here's a view of the lower actuator in the door and the two screws in the 2nd photo show where it was mounted. As you can see from the "extra" holes, getting it in exactly the right place so the range of motion of the actuator can both lock and unlock the door is critical.

Hey_Allen

Thanks for the further explanation.
I'll have to take a look in the mechanism of my car's door lock and see if I can do the same.

Mrmerlin

Well I fixed the door latch ,
the updated inner latch part is clearly different, it has some kind of weighted arm that the original didnt have, and now the lock works as advertised.
Sorry no pictures of the part I used. I put in a right side door latch picture for reference.
Also the outer door latching assembly though possibly not needed is also updated. and I am glad I got it as the original looked like it may have been bent
You will also need the locking **** rod clip IIRC its part 7 on PET, this little collar presses into one of three holes it locks the rod intro the lever arm,
I used the top hole in the latch.
and the white locking link is also updated, I didnt replace this but I will get a few of these ordered.


This is a picture of the updated right side door latch, notice the small clip in the top hole for the lock ****