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The carbon fiber filament is not true carbon fiber - it just has pieces of carbon fiber in it. You're still dealing with limited strength of the filament material, and especially between layers. Nylon filament is quite strong, but it's also hard to print. There's some other higher strength filaments out there too.
The best way to get a feel for the current limitations of home 3D printing is to just start playing around with one. They're quite affordable now and the bugs are mostly worked out.
I find 3D printing to be great for prototyping - it's very cool to sketch something up on the computer and have it exist a few hours later. Revise and reprint until you have an optimized design.
I'm converting a 1987 944S to electric and had planned to use 3d printing to build the battery packs. I expect there's a great deal of trial and error involved, but I'm not in a hurry. If it takes me 6 months to a year to figure out how to do it right, that's how long it takes.
I have found some interesting patterns available. Clips, plugs, harnesses, etc, most of which will come in handy at one point or another.
However, I do need door handles and I think it would be cool to 3D print them out of one material and the seals out of another. Even if they only lasted a few years, once the pattern is done it's easy enough to replicate more. I've been thinking of investing in a 3d scanner and scanning in various parts for replication. I think that might be the easiest way to get the dimensions accurate. I don't have a lot of CAD experience, but I have a great deal of experience making parts work together that weren't really meant to
Which brings up another question - can a 3D print file also be used to machine something out of a solid billet?
they may already exist and i haven't found them, but id be interested in some male bosch injector (junior timer) plug blanks.
basically, if your female harness plug isn't being used for whatever reason you could plug in a non-conducting male end to keep any dust out and protect the female electrical contacts.
they may already exist and i haven't found them, but id be interested in some male bosch injector (junior timer) plug blanks.
basically, if your female harness plug isn't being used for whatever reason you could plug in a non-conducting male end to keep any dust out and protect the female electrical contacts.
they may already exist and i haven't found them, but id be interested in some male bosch injector (junior timer) plug blanks.
basically, if your female harness plug isn't being used for whatever reason you could plug in a non-conducting male end to keep any dust out and protect the female electrical contacts.
If I ever have the spare time, I'll see if I can model something that works. In the meantime, you can just buy the male sides (cheap) and fill the ends with RTV or the like.
for a 16v conversion?
i imagine it's what you were doing, but Raceboy was able to swap the 16v outer gear onto an early 8v eccentric pulley to do just that.
here's an idea though, what about having a machine shop modify a 16V tensioner pulley by milling the hole into a slot (just like the balance shaft eccentric idler pulley)?
plenty of meat there.
I've been printing face shields for my local hospital but can't keep up with demand. Would anyone be willing to print some? It's an easy print, no support, any plastic, etc. These are going to immediate use by people who seriously need them.... PM me if you can make a few.
Someone was asking for the STL files to the ISV and Aux Water-pump rings. I also included the bellhousing plugs - RAR file attached.
Print with Ninjaflex or similar polyurethane. The ISV and WP rings print with an outer support ring, and the easiest way to remove it afterwards is to grip it with pliers and `peel' it off (it will tear perfectly between layers).
I've had three FDM printers over the last 10 years or so (with the Lulzbot Taz 6 being the best without question). After debating a long time, I finally got an SLA resin printer -- a Form 3 by Formlabs. Just did my first few prints -- a 944 seat latch posted on thingiverse, and a mercedes sun visor clip I designed myself. These are not even printed in the highest resolution and they look like they came out of a mold. Holy Toledo! And they have resins that are good for up to 460F degrees! Suddenly, under-hood parts and intricate things like electrical connectors seem well within reach... !!
I've had three FDM printers over the last 10 years or so (with the Lulzbot Taz 6 being the best without question). After debating a long time, I finally got an SLA resin printer -- a Form 3 by Formlabs. Just did my first few prints -- a 944 seat latch posted on thingiverse, and a mercedes sun visor clip I designed myself. These are not even printed in the highest resolution and they look like they came out of a mold. Holy Toledo! And they have resins that are good for up to 460F degrees! Suddenly, under-hood parts and intricate things like electrical connectors seem well within reach... !!
I've wanted a Form printer for a while now...
How do you find working with resin? Fumes, clean-up, curing, etc?
01-19-2020, 05:07 PM
