3D Printing 924 & 944 Parts - Development and Discussion
#286
Hi Steven,
The carbon fiber filament is not true carbon fiber - it just has pieces of carbon fiber in it. You're still dealing with limited strength of the filament material, and especially between layers. Nylon filament is quite strong, but it's also hard to print. There's some other higher strength filaments out there too.
The best way to get a feel for the current limitations of home 3D printing is to just start playing around with one. They're quite affordable now and the bugs are mostly worked out.
I find 3D printing to be great for prototyping - it's very cool to sketch something up on the computer and have it exist a few hours later. Revise and reprint until you have an optimized design.
The carbon fiber filament is not true carbon fiber - it just has pieces of carbon fiber in it. You're still dealing with limited strength of the filament material, and especially between layers. Nylon filament is quite strong, but it's also hard to print. There's some other higher strength filaments out there too.
The best way to get a feel for the current limitations of home 3D printing is to just start playing around with one. They're quite affordable now and the bugs are mostly worked out.
I find 3D printing to be great for prototyping - it's very cool to sketch something up on the computer and have it exist a few hours later. Revise and reprint until you have an optimized design.
I have found some interesting patterns available. Clips, plugs, harnesses, etc, most of which will come in handy at one point or another.
However, I do need door handles and I think it would be cool to 3D print them out of one material and the seals out of another. Even if they only lasted a few years, once the pattern is done it's easy enough to replicate more. I've been thinking of investing in a 3d scanner and scanning in various parts for replication. I think that might be the easiest way to get the dimensions accurate. I don't have a lot of CAD experience, but I have a great deal of experience making parts work together that weren't really meant to
Which brings up another question - can a 3D print file also be used to machine something out of a solid billet?
#287
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
they may already exist and i haven't found them, but id be interested in some male bosch injector (junior timer) plug blanks.
basically, if your female harness plug isn't being used for whatever reason you could plug in a non-conducting male end to keep any dust out and protect the female electrical contacts.
basically, if your female harness plug isn't being used for whatever reason you could plug in a non-conducting male end to keep any dust out and protect the female electrical contacts.
#288
they may already exist and i haven't found them, but id be interested in some male bosch injector (junior timer) plug blanks.
basically, if your female harness plug isn't being used for whatever reason you could plug in a non-conducting male end to keep any dust out and protect the female electrical contacts.
basically, if your female harness plug isn't being used for whatever reason you could plug in a non-conducting male end to keep any dust out and protect the female electrical contacts.
why not just use tape?
The following 2 users liked this post by curtisr:
Dwizle (12-22-2020),
Jay Wellwood (01-20-2020)
#290
Rennlist Member
they may already exist and i haven't found them, but id be interested in some male bosch injector (junior timer) plug blanks.
basically, if your female harness plug isn't being used for whatever reason you could plug in a non-conducting male end to keep any dust out and protect the female electrical contacts.
basically, if your female harness plug isn't being used for whatever reason you could plug in a non-conducting male end to keep any dust out and protect the female electrical contacts.
If I ever have the spare time, I'll see if I can model something that works. In the meantime, you can just buy the male sides (cheap) and fill the ends with RTV or the like.
https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...935-ND/2054000
#294
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
for a 16v conversion?
i imagine it's what you were doing, but Raceboy was able to swap the 16v outer gear onto an early 8v eccentric pulley to do just that.
here's an idea though, what about having a machine shop modify a 16V tensioner pulley by milling the hole into a slot (just like the balance shaft eccentric idler pulley)?
plenty of meat there.
i imagine it's what you were doing, but Raceboy was able to swap the 16v outer gear onto an early 8v eccentric pulley to do just that.
here's an idea though, what about having a machine shop modify a 16V tensioner pulley by milling the hole into a slot (just like the balance shaft eccentric idler pulley)?
plenty of meat there.
#296
Stl files
Hi everyone, could any one send me the stl files from this thread?
polarisemil01@gmail.com
kind regards
Emil
polarisemil01@gmail.com
kind regards
Emil
#297
Rennlist Member
I've been printing face shields for my local hospital but can't keep up with demand. Would anyone be willing to print some? It's an easy print, no support, any plastic, etc. These are going to immediate use by people who seriously need them.... PM me if you can make a few.
The following 2 users liked this post by Tom M'Guinn:
J1NX3D (03-27-2020),
Jay Wellwood (03-28-2020)
#298
Pro
Thread Starter
Someone was asking for the STL files to the ISV and Aux Water-pump rings. I also included the bellhousing plugs - RAR file attached.
Print with Ninjaflex or similar polyurethane. The ISV and WP rings print with an outer support ring, and the easiest way to remove it afterwards is to grip it with pliers and `peel' it off (it will tear perfectly between layers).
The following 3 users liked this post by KVDR:
#299
Rennlist Member
I've had three FDM printers over the last 10 years or so (with the Lulzbot Taz 6 being the best without question). After debating a long time, I finally got an SLA resin printer -- a Form 3 by Formlabs. Just did my first few prints -- a 944 seat latch posted on thingiverse, and a mercedes sun visor clip I designed myself. These are not even printed in the highest resolution and they look like they came out of a mold. Holy Toledo! And they have resins that are good for up to 460F degrees! Suddenly, under-hood parts and intricate things like electrical connectors seem well within reach... !!
The following 3 users liked this post by Tom M'Guinn:
#300
Pro
Thread Starter
I've had three FDM printers over the last 10 years or so (with the Lulzbot Taz 6 being the best without question). After debating a long time, I finally got an SLA resin printer -- a Form 3 by Formlabs. Just did my first few prints -- a 944 seat latch posted on thingiverse, and a mercedes sun visor clip I designed myself. These are not even printed in the highest resolution and they look like they came out of a mold. Holy Toledo! And they have resins that are good for up to 460F degrees! Suddenly, under-hood parts and intricate things like electrical connectors seem well within reach... !!
How do you find working with resin? Fumes, clean-up, curing, etc?