Yummybud924

yeah 20w50 was like honey at 1 degree.

anyways I switched to 5w50 which should be the best I guess for both cold viscocity and high temp.

anyways oil was not my problem, read my other thread. the sleeve that the oprv goes into the housing has come loose (suppose to be loctited in there) and that is the source of my problem.

Yummybud924

so anyways my oil cooler housing has to come out first before I figure out how to fix the loose sleeve.

problem is I doubt you can buy a new sleeve and i'm not sure where i can get the special drive tool to replace it....

951and944S

You use the alignment tool to drive it too.

Paragon has it, somewhere around $20-30.

You'll want the early one, there are two versions.

T

951and944S

By the way, if you can hang a high watt bulb right next to the engine block to warm the area and freeze the sleeve, it'll tap in with very light pressure.

Probably the same reason it moved....extreme temps lately.

Aluminum block and steel sleeve expand and contract at different rates due to the difference in density.

T

Yummybud924

hmm if I tape it in it'll probably just come loose again with teh engine expanding. the instructions (someone here posted it) say to use loctite 238 I think so looks like I have no choice but to remove the oil cooler.

Jfrahm

I'm not quite sure you are on the right track... I would think a stuck OPRV can cause no/low oil pressure but with it out I would still expect oil to shoot out when cranked. You might have OPRV problems but they might not be all your problems.

I'd be concerned about the oil pump drive, perhaps an incorrectly installed cone washer on the crank snout or a pooched drive from trying to pump the thick, cold oil.

-Joel.

Tom R.

if your car is stock, i think it is safe for you not to worry about it blowing up. i think you need to stop worrying so much.

when i buy tires i study the reviews, then i study the ratings on tire rack, then i study the price. then i end up buying something more expensive than what i need and wondering why i wasted my money. the tires on my bmw can go 150 miles an hour. i drive 7 miles to the train at 45. see what i mean. same with your oil filter dilemma.

KuHL 951

You might be right on other possible problems but his OPRV sleeve (bushing in Porsche speak) isn't seated at all and slides freely a full 1/2" from the block towards the housing. On cold start I imagine that the sleeve and piston are sliding together as one unit and opening up the base area of the sleeve. Wouldn't this condition effectively redirect oil to the pick-up resulting in no oil pressure? The tube is sealed at the base to regulate excessive pressure; without a sealed tube for the OPRV how could he build pressure at all?

Yummybud924

well I pushed the sleeve back in and today I started it again after sitting all day and it builds pressure now going to 5 bar when I start it up.

I"m too scared to drive it with the sleeve not glued in though.

pissing me off. I was suppose to go out tonight and I'm staying home trying to start taking it apart.

I'm going out with this girl tomorrow instead and I now have to ask her to picke me up lol.

RED87944S

porsche

Yummybud924

Yeah I drive a porsche but it's on jackstands half the year lol.

this girl has been in my 944 before though, I used to pick her up in the mornings and drive her to school but I bet she has no idea what kind of car I drive she probably thinks its some 80s mazda or nissan.

she doesn't know much about cars...... I remember when I told her my car was rear wheel drive and not good in the snow and she asked me what the difference between front wheel drive and rear wheel drive was, uh.

Mike C.

Don't let her read your threads on this forum....

944 guy

:lol:
This topic is a hoot. It's VERY easy to SEE if the piston of the OPRV is good: pull it out and just LOOK at the skirt. If it's smooth, there's no problem. If it's scored longitudinally and you don't feel anything it's OK. If it's scored longitudinally and your fingernail catches the scoring when you run it along the circumference, you're screwed.
The sleeve doesn't come out of the block by itself, if the piston looks good, the valve is good.
Second: I'm astounded that you don't even know that the oilpressure variations you're getting are NORMAL. Cold oil is harder to pump around, so the pump supplies more pressure (since a gear pump is a displacement pump, you get whatever pressure is needed to supply the determined flow). As the oil heats up, it gets thinner and pumps easier. Result is lower pressure at idle: 2 - 2.5 bar is absolutely normal at idle and 5 is normal at elevated rpm's (3-4 and higher).
The reason your oil pressure reading doesn't drop to 2 immediately after you blip the throttle I'm guessing (and I'm going out on a limb here, but judging by your posts I doubt Im incorrect) you have a knock-off oilpressure sensor. I cheaped out too and it's a piece of crap. It can only tell me if I do, or do not have pressure. I know everything else is good because after my rebuild I still used the old one for a few days (I removed it because I had to localize a leak, upon which one of the 22 year old contacts snapped off).
The original porsche unit follows the actual pressure without delay. This cheap POS takes a minute to drop if I let it idle for a while. Next time (maybe before it breaks or when I ahve some spare cash) I'm getting an OEM unit. Sometimes you do get what you pay for.
You oughtta take some shopclasses!

951and944S

Erm...., the sleeves do move by themselves, there's a Porsche bulletin on it.

There is also the issue of unlike metals in play, block is aluminum, sleeve is steel, they'll expand and contract at differing rates due to density and climatic differences can definitely play a role there.

Last thing, metal bits from wear, plastic from a pan baffle, gasket material, errant loctite or silicone as a sealant, can accumulate in the area where the valve seats when compressed by the spring, compromising the land position for the valve at rest.

T