oh no I think I blew up my engine (no oil pressure)
01-21-2009, 07:47 PM
#121
Race Car
I detect some weirdness going on. Why did you torque the crankshaft bolt to 160 ftlb if you never removed it? If you did remove it, why if not for removing the crankshaft timing gear? Something doesn't sound right here. I normally don't mind helping out but something doesn't sound right here. Nobody goes around and checks torque for something they did not mess with. The 24mm bolt does not need to be touched for a timing belt replacement.
15w50 is something I would use for 80 deg F. Even if it drops below 50 deg F, I would use 10w40 so I think its too thick for where you are at definitely.
15w50 is something I would use for 80 deg F. Even if it drops below 50 deg F, I would use 10w40 so I think its too thick for where you are at definitely.
Last edited by Legoland951; 01-21-2009 at 11:16 PM.
01-21-2009, 08:39 PM
#122
Drifting
Thread Starter
Maybe I wasn't clear. 2 weeks ago I removed the 24mm bolt and removed the balance shaft pulley/ the two vbelt pulleys so that I could put the new timing belt on without kinking it. however I did not remove the crankshaft timing belt gear because I was not replacing oil seals.
I checked the torque on the bolt yesterday because I thought maybe it could have come loose somehow. I usually put blue locktite on that 24 mm bolt but this time I didn't (I know you are not required to put locktite on it).
I checked the torque on the bolt yesterday because I thought maybe it could have come loose somehow. I usually put blue locktite on that 24 mm bolt but this time I didn't (I know you are not required to put locktite on it).
01-21-2009, 08:53 PM
#123
Rennlist Member
When you removed the crankshaft bolt did you get the big cupped washer on the right way when you replaced it? I got mine on backwards and had very low oil pressure until I got it back right. If its on backwards you do not get enough pressure on the oil pump drive gear to spin it properly. Perhaps there was enough friction that you initially got good pressure but now it is slipping???
01-21-2009, 09:00 PM
#124
Nordschleife Master
i am not a geology expert, but i have read a few rand mcnallys in my life. is the part of canada where yummy comes from the part where they speak french?
if so that may be why he doesnt understand the advice.
like i said, i am not a geology expert, so i am not sure where things are, but maybe he has rocks in his head.
yummy listen to lego. he probably has more hands on experience with these things than anyone else.
if so that may be why he doesnt understand the advice.
like i said, i am not a geology expert, so i am not sure where things are, but maybe he has rocks in his head.
yummy listen to lego. he probably has more hands on experience with these things than anyone else.
thanks. I may have wrecked the engine by now anyways running it with zero oil pressure.
I'm hoping someone here can help me out so I don't randomly pull things apart.
I'm wondering if the oprv staying open would prevent oil from getting ot the filter which I observed.
if not then that would eliminate the oprv and I would have to drop the oil pan again to see if the pick up tube is broken.
this is strange though this happened all of a sudden on start up today. I doubt the pickup tube would just break on startup.
I'm hoping someone here can help me out so I don't randomly pull things apart.
I'm wondering if the oprv staying open would prevent oil from getting ot the filter which I observed.
if not then that would eliminate the oprv and I would have to drop the oil pan again to see if the pick up tube is broken.
this is strange though this happened all of a sudden on start up today. I doubt the pickup tube would just break on startup.
Pull the damn valve out already, and turn the cars engine, with plugs removed, and DME Relay pulled(will prevent fuel pump from running)
Why on earth did you start it after I TOLD you not to? You have an oil starvation problem you should not run the engine, even for a second! Please, Please tell me you are NOT an engineering student. Duude! you actually turned the key with the plugs in? AFTER I said..like a couple of times DON'T DO IT? WHY?? If you take the plugs out and crank the starter, pressure comes up in a few secs without trashing your bearings. IS there something seriously wrong with you? Have you lost your Mind? Are you really...really stoned?
edit, deleted process as you figured it out...Read on below...
if no squirt, pull oil pan and check for clogged pickup, if pickup is clear disassemble engine, ship to me, I will dispose of for you (or you could begin to disassemble as your "newish" oil pump went south for the winter)...
if oil squirts out, clean the valve as good as solvents available in Canada will allow you to, replace the O-ring, re-install and drive it like you stole it...
01-21-2009, 09:40 PM
#125
Drifting
Thread Starter
OMG I actually fixed it !!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks everyone!!!!!!1
I don't know what fixed it but I took the crankshaft bolt out (it was super tight) and retorqued it.
I removed the pressure relief valve and just put it back in and then I primed my oil pump by pouring oil in the oil filter hole and turning the crankshaft bolt counter clockwise.
I then prayed to jebus and magically it fired up and oil pressure went up to 5 bar 20w50 oil in there and crappy bosche oil filter.
now I'll go and buy some 5w50 synthetic and order another kN oil filter and pray I didn't damage the engine bearings or camshaft by running it with no oil.
the lifters are no longer making tapping sounds and then engine sounds normal......
wonder what it was, not sure if I should order a new oil pressure relief valve.
mine is the old style 3 piece unit so it's just a freakin spring so I don't see how it can fail.
also why would my oil pump just suddenly lose it's prime?
I don't know what fixed it but I took the crankshaft bolt out (it was super tight) and retorqued it.
I removed the pressure relief valve and just put it back in and then I primed my oil pump by pouring oil in the oil filter hole and turning the crankshaft bolt counter clockwise.
I then prayed to jebus and magically it fired up and oil pressure went up to 5 bar 20w50 oil in there and crappy bosche oil filter.
now I'll go and buy some 5w50 synthetic and order another kN oil filter and pray I didn't damage the engine bearings or camshaft by running it with no oil.
the lifters are no longer making tapping sounds and then engine sounds normal......
wonder what it was, not sure if I should order a new oil pressure relief valve.
mine is the old style 3 piece unit so it's just a freakin spring so I don't see how it can fail.
also why would my oil pump just suddenly lose it's prime?
01-21-2009, 09:46 PM
#126
Nordschleife Master
OMG I actually fixed it !!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks everyone!!!!!!1
I don't know what fixed it but I took the crankshaft bolt out (it was super tight) and retorqued it.
I removed the pressure relief valve and just put it back in and then I primed my oil pump by pouring oil in the oil filter hole and turning the crankshaft bolt counter clockwise.
I then prayed to jebus and magically it fired up and oil pressure went up to 5 bar 20w50 oil in there and crappy bosche oil filter.
now I'll go and buy some 5w50 synthetic and order another kN oil filter and pray I didn't damage the engine bearings or camshaft by running it with no oil.
the lifters are no longer making tapping sounds and then engine sounds normal......
wonder what it was, not sure if I should order a new oil pressure relief valve.
mine is the old style 3 piece unit so it's just a freakin spring so I don't see how it can fail.
also why would my oil pump just suddenly lose it's prime?
I don't know what fixed it but I took the crankshaft bolt out (it was super tight) and retorqued it.
I removed the pressure relief valve and just put it back in and then I primed my oil pump by pouring oil in the oil filter hole and turning the crankshaft bolt counter clockwise.
I then prayed to jebus and magically it fired up and oil pressure went up to 5 bar 20w50 oil in there and crappy bosche oil filter.
now I'll go and buy some 5w50 synthetic and order another kN oil filter and pray I didn't damage the engine bearings or camshaft by running it with no oil.
the lifters are no longer making tapping sounds and then engine sounds normal......
wonder what it was, not sure if I should order a new oil pressure relief valve.
mine is the old style 3 piece unit so it's just a freakin spring so I don't see how it can fail.
also why would my oil pump just suddenly lose it's prime?
01-21-2009, 11:04 PM
#130
Drifting
Thread Starter
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm going for a drive right now but something seems strange so the problem may return
I started the car it was at 5 bar then after 1 minute it dropped to 2.5 bar then 2 bar then I reved it then it went back to 5 bar and stayed there for 5 minutes then I shut it off.
so looks like the OPRV may be sticking...... looks like I will have to pay 400 bucks for a new one, the new style one.
I don't see how the 3 piece valve with just a piston and spring can go bad it's just a small piston and spring. it is possible that my oil cooler housing needs to be properly alligned even though I never removed it??
anyways thanks.
anyone know if I should just get a shop to allign the cooler housing for me and see if that fixes the sticking? (I assume it's sticking because when I reved it it got stuck at 5 bar).
I can't see how the 3 piece relief valve goes bad only the spring can get weak I guess.
I'm going for a drive right now but something seems strange so the problem may return
I started the car it was at 5 bar then after 1 minute it dropped to 2.5 bar then 2 bar then I reved it then it went back to 5 bar and stayed there for 5 minutes then I shut it off.
so looks like the OPRV may be sticking...... looks like I will have to pay 400 bucks for a new one, the new style one.
I don't see how the 3 piece valve with just a piston and spring can go bad it's just a small piston and spring. it is possible that my oil cooler housing needs to be properly alligned even though I never removed it??
anyways thanks.
anyone know if I should just get a shop to allign the cooler housing for me and see if that fixes the sticking? (I assume it's sticking because when I reved it it got stuck at 5 bar).
I can't see how the 3 piece relief valve goes bad only the spring can get weak I guess.
01-21-2009, 11:14 PM
#131
Race Car
Sigh, at least he did what was recommended. The last advice I gave him was to slide the coupler out of the tranny input shaft before removing bellhousing bolts and was ignored. At least it turned out better this time.
01-21-2009, 11:43 PM
#132
Geaux Tigers!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Good deal. Here's to hoping that the problem doesn't return. You are definitly a persisitant little fricker aren't you? I say that in a positive way.
Out of curiosity which way did you orient the crankshaft washer and how was it before?
Out of curiosity which way did you orient the crankshaft washer and how was it before?
01-22-2009, 12:34 AM
#133
Race Car
Take that multi piece OPRV out and toss it in the garbage.
There's a reason it's no longer available.
If you look at the oil schematic, the pump output is regulated by the valve which dumps overpressure "relief" back into the intake tract of the pump suction side.
Any deformity of the valve bore/sleeve in the block, a piece of trash/debris that can hold the two piece type spool valve from fully seating in the rest position (engine not running) opens the suction side circuit to an air intake leak lessening the ability for the pump to prime from the sump.
Think about it as you trying to suck a soda through a straw with a crack in it.
The valve that will interchange directly with your series engine block is the first design one piece valve with the o'ring towards the end (tip).
This type valve relies on an o'ring seal to the OPRV bore/sleeve and not the fit of a free floating spool valve that has 20 years of metal - metal wear and tear.
Change the valve.
T
There's a reason it's no longer available.
If you look at the oil schematic, the pump output is regulated by the valve which dumps overpressure "relief" back into the intake tract of the pump suction side.
Any deformity of the valve bore/sleeve in the block, a piece of trash/debris that can hold the two piece type spool valve from fully seating in the rest position (engine not running) opens the suction side circuit to an air intake leak lessening the ability for the pump to prime from the sump.
Think about it as you trying to suck a soda through a straw with a crack in it.
The valve that will interchange directly with your series engine block is the first design one piece valve with the o'ring towards the end (tip).
This type valve relies on an o'ring seal to the OPRV bore/sleeve and not the fit of a free floating spool valve that has 20 years of metal - metal wear and tear.
Change the valve.
T
01-22-2009, 12:48 AM
#134
Drifting
Thread Starter
damn a new one is going be 400 bucks with shipping and convert to canadian dollars. Better than a new engine though lol. but still freakin expensive I already owe a lot of money from my clutch / torque tube failure.
bad idea to get a used new style valve?
hopefully it won't fail again until i can replace it...
bad idea to get a used new style valve?
hopefully it won't fail again until i can replace it...