Selling my 944 S or trade 52,000 miles!
#33
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DME's for our cars come up here every now and then for ~$100. If I had one I'd lend it to you for debug. Someone must.
You might add the ICM to your list of ignition components to check. I can loan you one of those if you like.
Please don't part it. They are not making any more of those. Once you get it going you'll be glad you kept it.
You might add the ICM to your list of ignition components to check. I can loan you one of those if you like.
Please don't part it. They are not making any more of those. Once you get it going you'll be glad you kept it.
#35
Rennlist Member
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Also, you may want to edit your thread title or at least the first post so this thread doesn't get deleted.
You have a car with 52,000 miles, you're very lucky, you should really try and keep it and sell it, I'm sure you will get $7,000 for it working. You won't make $7,000 parting it.
Good luck.
#36
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Used 16V DME - tested/90 day warranty - $325 - dcautomotive
http://dcauto.gotdns.com/illustration/index/203490748
Don't get a new one from Germany.![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I bought one when mine went bad. You won't find a better price (unless it's from a car being parted on Rennlist)
If you don't get tach bounce, have verified the speed / ref sensors are good and plugged in correctly, a new DME would be my next step.
Everybody on here has been in your position before, ready to dump the car just to be over it, but we're here to tell you to stick with it. You WILL get it working. It may take some time and money, but you will. And when you do, it WILL be worth it.
http://dcauto.gotdns.com/illustration/index/203490748
Don't get a new one from Germany.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I bought one when mine went bad. You won't find a better price (unless it's from a car being parted on Rennlist)
If you don't get tach bounce, have verified the speed / ref sensors are good and plugged in correctly, a new DME would be my next step.
Everybody on here has been in your position before, ready to dump the car just to be over it, but we're here to tell you to stick with it. You WILL get it working. It may take some time and money, but you will. And when you do, it WILL be worth it.
![burnout](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/burnout.gif)
#38
Race Director
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Red Follow these guys advice. Walk away from it for a week, if you have to, and cool down. It is a lovely car and you will only regret selling it.
I sent some PM's out to people I know in PA to see if they can be of some help or at least resource a good shop.
Honestly, it sounds like a $300 problem...just the sensors. I , as well as several here, have gone through the exact same thing. However, taking advice from the board I had mine identified and fixed in a day.
Get lit for a week to settle your nerves, if need be. Otherwise, relax and let these good people help you
I sent some PM's out to people I know in PA to see if they can be of some help or at least resource a good shop.
Honestly, it sounds like a $300 problem...just the sensors. I , as well as several here, have gone through the exact same thing. However, taking advice from the board I had mine identified and fixed in a day.
Get lit for a week to settle your nerves, if need be. Otherwise, relax and let these good people help you
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#42
Rennlist Member
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Speed and reference sensors on the rear of the engine.
Mine had a good bit of oil on them when I changed the clutch in my turbo, and my RMS (rear main seal) leaked like a sieve.
Tom
Mine had a good bit of oil on them when I changed the clutch in my turbo, and my RMS (rear main seal) leaked like a sieve.
Tom
#43
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Doesn't the S model have the extra ignition module like the S2? If that has failed, you will get a no start condition also.
It is on the wheel well just under the expansion tank.
It is on the wheel well just under the expansion tank.