What do you think of 928s
09-15-2008, 11:29 PM
#121
Addict
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The 928S4 is full of torque. I can go REALLY QUICK from 40mph to 147mph (4th gear) (and have one gear left over). However, when I shift into 5th it's like I hit a brick wall. This on the Spokane Raceway...where you have to slow down for tight curve so I've not wound it out in 5th.
BTW, several 928s (with some engine mods) have hit 200mph at some of the Nevada Open Road Races...out peforming many more expensive exotics. Cushy car...great performance.
Maintenance on my 968 is about nothing compared to the 928.
H2
09-16-2008, 12:20 AM
#124
Three Wheelin'
09-16-2008, 08:56 AM
#125
Rennlist Member
I own a 1984 928S and a 1987 944. They are different cars with different thoughts. A 928 is more luxury, where the 944 is more racin, and . the costs to purchase and maintain are different. They were not meant to compete, but to compliment each other within the Porsche line. Remember, it is all about the money and how ever Porwche can make it; they do it.
09-16-2008, 03:16 PM
#126
Under the Lift
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So, what happened to the $4K 80K mile 88 S4?
I would do a leakdown test. Easy to do and will tell you if the bores and valves are good. The motors are usually good for just about forever. Mine is still purring nicely at 194K miles with zero mechanical issues, and I can assure you they were not all easy miles.
Most poor running conditions are due to vacuum leaks from old vacuum lines and breather hoses. After that, maybe a bad MAF, O2 sensor or temp sensor. The only real serious engine problem beyond that is thrust bearing failure in automatics, which causes the car to stall once warm and then be hard to start (starter turns slowly against serious engine friction) until it cools off. That ruins the block, but if the car is no such symptoms, it's not likely. Ideally, you'd do a crank endplay check to rule that out.
I would do a leakdown test. Easy to do and will tell you if the bores and valves are good. The motors are usually good for just about forever. Mine is still purring nicely at 194K miles with zero mechanical issues, and I can assure you they were not all easy miles.
Most poor running conditions are due to vacuum leaks from old vacuum lines and breather hoses. After that, maybe a bad MAF, O2 sensor or temp sensor. The only real serious engine problem beyond that is thrust bearing failure in automatics, which causes the car to stall once warm and then be hard to start (starter turns slowly against serious engine friction) until it cools off. That ruins the block, but if the car is no such symptoms, it's not likely. Ideally, you'd do a crank endplay check to rule that out.
09-16-2008, 09:22 PM
#127
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
So, what happened to the $4K 80K mile 88 S4?
I would do a leakdown test. Easy to do and will tell you if the bores and valves are good. The motors are usually good for just about forever. Mine is still purring nicely at 194K miles with zero mechanical issues, and I can assure you they were not all easy miles.
Most poor running conditions are due to vacuum leaks from old vacuum lines and breather hoses. After that, maybe a bad MAF, O2 sensor or temp sensor. The only real serious engine problem beyond that is thrust bearing failure in automatics, which causes the car to stall once warm and then be hard to start (starter turns slowly against serious engine friction) until it cools off. That ruins the block, but if the car is no such symptoms, it's not likely. Ideally, you'd do a crank endplay check to rule that out.
I would do a leakdown test. Easy to do and will tell you if the bores and valves are good. The motors are usually good for just about forever. Mine is still purring nicely at 194K miles with zero mechanical issues, and I can assure you they were not all easy miles.
Most poor running conditions are due to vacuum leaks from old vacuum lines and breather hoses. After that, maybe a bad MAF, O2 sensor or temp sensor. The only real serious engine problem beyond that is thrust bearing failure in automatics, which causes the car to stall once warm and then be hard to start (starter turns slowly against serious engine friction) until it cools off. That ruins the block, but if the car is no such symptoms, it's not likely. Ideally, you'd do a crank endplay check to rule that out.
Take a look at Bill Ball's burnout video and ask yourself how many cars can do that? Admittedly, he's improved the breathing.
H2
