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I found a set made by Knipex that I ordered. Inexpensive and I bought the clamps to go with them as well. Found it all on Amazon. These should really come in handy!
Started this morning putting the fuel system back in place along with some other odds and ends. Don't judge the lack of detailing yet. Got her running for the first time in 25 years.
This video depicts the third start actually. The first couple times required me to manually manipulate the throttle and the fuel meter. A couple minor adjustments and it starts on its hold and holds a nice idle (albeit a little high). Smoked badly at first but quickly cleared up. There is no exhaust cat back in this video.
Great oil pressure and great throttle response. Quite shocked actually at how close the set up is "out of the box". I will break out the gauges after some more run time and get things done adjusted.
Sounds great!!! You've done an awesome job thus far and I can't imagine your anticipation of driving the car when it's roadworthy! And for a lack of detailing, the engine e bay looks really good!! Any idea why the car was parked and how long before you got it?
After repairing the necessary systems, its amazing how well they run after sitting for so long!! My 85 was sitting for 12 years before I bought it. I went through the fuel and ignition systems, checked the belts for condition and tension, and replaced the starter and my 944 coughed to life and even held a good idle. Lifters were noisy for a few minutes but they primed back up and were fine.
Sounds great!!! You've done an awesome job thus far and I can't imagine your anticipation of driving the car when it's roadworthy! And for a lack of detailing, the engine e bay looks really good!! Any idea why the car was parked and how long before you got it?
After repairing the necessary systems, its amazing how well they run after sitting for so long!! My 85 was sitting for 12 years before I bought it. I went through the fuel and ignition systems, checked the belts for condition and tension, and replaced the starter and my 944 coughed to life and even held a good idle. Lifters were noisy for a few minutes but they primed back up and were fine.
thank you! I would be much further along if not for a 928 project and a new kitchen.
I have done some research on ownership. This is a one owner car before me. Original owner lived in Virginia, and moved to TN in 1998. The battery was dated 1997 and the tires seem to be dated in the late eighties. The car seems to have never been registered or inspected after that point. It was covered and stored indoors. The owner died in the spring of 2021 and the family donated it.
They included some parts and a Haynes manual along with the car cover inside the car when donated. I did find one receipt for a turbo rebuild in 1995.
The clutch hydraulics are shot. It COULD BE the reason why it was parked for so long but honestly I don't know. The last known address I have for the deceased owner was on the market over the summer.
It has good history honestly. Likely well cared for and loved. The owner kept it until his passing, likely not wanting to part with the car as he cared for it. Perhaps he was unable to find anyone in his area willing to service and repair the car and decided to park it when the clutch hydraulics started to fail.
How's the interior? Does the car have any unique options?
So it's been awhile. Sold my 928 and it now the 931 has my undivided attention. I was not happy with my cold and warm pressures as both were very high. If you recall, everything was flushed and replaced so in theory, the fuel system was clean. Even so, I suspected a blockage in the WUR.
I rememoved, disassembled and cleaned the WUR for the fourth time and reinstalled with NO springs or PIN. I do this frequently to narrow down the cause of high cold pressure. With no guts, the pressure dropped to 18 psi so I can safely assume the WUR is finally clear.
Reinstalled the pin and springs and retested. Warm pressure was fine at 55psi but cold was still a bit high at 38 psi. Ambient temp was around 50 degrees in the garage.
On a 924 NA and on the 928, you can make adjustments to the WUR while it's installed and on the gauges. Not so easy with the 931 due to the fuel line plumbing configuration. I have also never been one to modify the WUR for adjustability although I admit it's a great solution. In this case, I fashioned a crude "expander" from a turnbuckle. I set this between the firewall and the WUR pin and tightened it up. Moving slowly, I bought the cold pressure down to 31.
Crude expander for adjusting WUR pin Expander installed
Crude but worked like a charm. There is plenty of tweaks remaining, but the car starts well both cold and instantly when warm (takes a couple attempts cold currently). Going to move on to the clutch and brakes for now.
Much more precise than the old method of tapping with a hammer!!
Agreed! I used to use a c clamp but the turbo doesn't have the clearance to get in there. My attempts with a hammer always backfire on me and again, space is so limited. This worked surprisingly well
In my case, I did the adjustable WUR mod on our racecar, which is an NA; I just unbolted the WUR from the manifold so I could lay it on top of the engine for adjustment while watching the gauges... for sure easily accessible, and yet also not really a shape you can drive much in...
Crude expander for adjusting WUR pin Expander installed
Crude but worked like a charm. There is plenty of tweaks remaining, but the car starts well both cold and instantly when warm (takes a couple attempts cold currently). Going to move on to the clutch and brakes for now.
Guy, is that expander pressing against the firewall? I'm not familiar with the 924 Turbo engine bay so it's hard for me to tell. If so, any concerns of it flexing or moving when the car isn't stationary?
Also, where in Bucks County are you located? I'm in Yardley.
In my case, I did the adjustable WUR mod on our racecar, which is an NA; I just unbolted the WUR from the manifold so I could lay it on top of the engine for adjustment while watching the gauges... for sure easily accessible, and yet also not really a shape you can drive much in...
Yep. The NA allows you to move the WUR quite a bit for testing and adjusting The turbo engine, not so much.
Originally Posted by JRP944
Guy, is that expander pressing against the firewall? I'm not familiar with the 924 Turbo engine bay so it's hard for me to tell. If so, any concerns of it flexing or moving when the car isn't stationary?
Also, where in Bucks County are you located? I'm in Yardley.
JRP
The expander is just for adjusting the cold pressure and it used as a tool. It is removed after adjustment. It was placed between the firewall and the WUR to make the adjustment. There would never be a reason to leave it in place or drive the like this. In fact, the engine isn't running for the adjustment, just jumpered the fuel pump. I am in Richboro, PA but spend some time in the Yardley Boro area.
you dont have to put the WUR back in its stock position, there is enough length of hose you can put it just in front of the throttle, makes life A LOT easier.
Also if you are going to be messing with the clutch, you may as well put a new MC in, and while you're at it check the Fire wall there is a good chance its cracked.....So while your fixing that, youll have to remove the Brake booster (mine was full of fluid!) and at that point you'll have to replace the Brake MC...... And if you want you can replace it with a 944 MC......(.But if you're cheap, an 83 Mercedes 190 MC is that same (except its steel) However youll have to reroute the brake lines from X cross to H cross....)
Have fun!!!
you dont have to put the WUR back in its stock position, there is enough length of hose you can put it just in front of the throttle, makes life A LOT easier.
Also if you are going to be messing with the clutch, you may as well put a new MC in, and while you're at it check the Fire wall there is a good chance its cracked.....So while your fixing that, youll have to remove the Brake booster (mine was full of fluid!) and at that point you'll have to replace the Brake MC...... And if you want you can replace it with a 944 MC......(.But if you're cheap, an 83 Mercedes 190 MC is that same (except its steel) However youll have to reroute the brake lines from X cross to H cross....)
Have fun!!!
Appreciate that. Unfortunately due to the T line for the frequency valve on an 80, it's not possible to pull lines through and place the WUR up front. Well. Not easily at least. Not so much a problem with NA cars.
Thanks for the MB tip on the master. I usually use Karps to rebuild my master and booster but may try a different route.
04-03-2022, 10:10 AM
