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+1 on the booster being full of fluid; mine was too, but just used a mightyvac to suck it out.
My brake MC died, but I found a replacement... not keen on switching to 944 MC due to the need to re-plumb the brake system. Did that on the NA racecar, but a lot of extra and unwanted work. I was able to find an NOS MC of the right kind on eBay... it is kind of annoying as they switched those up a few times along the way.
Oh, wait, you have the 4-lug brakes still, looks like. Then a 944 MC will be a lot more work... does not match your brakes...
FWIW, my firewall was not cracked... but yes, it's common, the '79 racecar was cracked (fixed that), as is Karl's... best preventative is to take apart and lube the pedals, but usually by the time we get the cars the damage is already done...
+1 on the booster being full of fluid; mine was too, but just used a mightyvac to suck it out.
My brake MC died, but I found a replacement... not keen on switching to 944 MC due to the need to re-plumb the brake system. Did that on the NA racecar, but a lot of extra and unwanted work. I was able to find an NOS MC of the right kind on eBay... it is kind of annoying as they switched those up a few times along the way.
Oh, wait, you have the 4-lug brakes still, looks like. Then a 944 MC will be a lot more work... does not match your brakes...
FWIW, my firewall was not cracked... but yes, it's common, the '79 racecar was cracked (fixed that), as is Karl's... best preventative is to take apart and lube the pedals, but usually by the time we get the cars the damage is already done...
the plumbing was quite easy. you only have to run one new line to the RF caliper and its done just like it is in the 944, just run along the top of the firewall; and then bend and use a T under the car for the Rear brakes.
AND you get brake bias. because its a stepped MC (and only $20!!)
the Firewall is surprisingly flexy, I welded a reinforcement plate and 90deg truss, made it rock solid. (not to mention the new clutch and brake MC, and ATE Gold, Fluid/bleed)
I just purchased one of these in the same color scheme, with the same pinstriping. It appears as if the pinstriping is from the factory-wouldn't you agree? I am seeing many examples of Imari silver/onyx green 924s with pinstriping going front to rear.
I just took the time to remove the pinstriping from mine, as it wasn't complete. Also it appeared black in color, and I believed it to be aftermarket. Perhaps I was wrong.
Enjoying reading about your 931 revitalization-keep it going!
Still loads to do but the engine bay is temporarily back together which could only mean one thing! Test drive time.
Clutch master, slave and hoses replaced. Brakes flushed and hoses replaced. No cracks in firewall. Clutch works great! Took it out of the garage for the first time in approx 25 years! No hiccups.
The list is still long still but this is a major milestone!
I just purchased one of these in the same color scheme, with the same pinstriping. It appears as if the pinstriping is from the factory-wouldn't you agree? I am seeing many examples of Imari silver/onyx green 924s with pinstriping going front to rear.
I just took the time to remove the pinstriping from mine, as it wasn't complete. Also it appeared black in color, and I believed it to be aftermarket. Perhaps I was wrong.
Enjoying reading about your 931 revitalization-keep it going!
thank you! Yes the pinstripe at the delinineation between the colors is defintely part of the package. I really was attracted to this one by the color scheme
I took the 924 around the block a couple times for a total of about two miles. Observations so far include some high crankcase pressure and a clutch that is likely towards the end of its lifespan.
Haven't pulled the plugs yet or did a compression test but I am hopeful the high pressure is do to the rings needing to bed in since it sat so long. Of course, broken rings are more likely although the car runs very strong.
Not too concerned about either one since pulling the motor was always an eventual move to properly service and detail the engine.
Just a brief update. Been slowly working thru some minor electrical gremlins and getting the car fully sorted. Been logging a few more miles and am very pleased to report that the car is really waking up! As is typical with a recommissioned car, especially a CIS car, every mile seems to get better and better! Transmission shifts great, turbo kicks in nicely.
Reverse lights were stuck on, simple fix replacing the switch on the transmission.
Mirror and Rear Wiper switch both required disassembly and cleaning
Replaced both MC switches in an effort to cure the center console BRAKE warning being on all the time (I believe the module itself may need a new thyrister, I have one on order to attempt a repair)
Going to log more miles and get her out on some main roads in the coming weeks. So far so good!
You’re methodically doing what the Brits call “sorting”. Great progress. IMO the electrical components on that generation of VAG vehicles was not superb; a relief therefore when they can be resuscitated with cleaning an/or the flow of electrons, i.e., use.
Ahhh, let them mock you! That’s where the men get separated from the wannabe boys: it takes real understanding to work through all these little gremlins and yield a fully functional car. The way 924/44 window switches create what I’d call “reverse causality” when they act up is an example that caused me to do some learning.
I would not have had the knowledge or skill to repair that warning module, very clever.
Ahhh, let them mock you! That’s where the men get separated from the wannabe boys: it takes real understanding to work through all these little gremlins and yield a fully functional car. The way 924/44 window switches create what I’d call “reverse causality” when they act up is an example that caused me to do some learning.
I would not have had the knowledge or skill to repair that warning module, very clever.
best, John
thanks, John!
had a one in twenty no start. No crank, replaced the ignition switch and all is well!
Also managed to get out for a 15 mile round trip on Sunday morning. Everything was near flawless EXCEPT the sloppy shifter. I guess shifter coupling and bushings is in order which means I probably should do the clutch while I have the tube out. Damn!
Still loads to do but the engine bay is temporarily back together which could only mean one thing! Test drive time.
Clutch master, slave and hoses replaced. Brakes flushed and hoses replaced. No cracks in firewall. Clutch works great! Took it out of the garage for the first time in approx 25 years! No hiccups.
The list is still long still but this is a major milestone!
Th fix of using a stout bolt to replace the worn pin fastening the gear shirt to the tube is a good one; I probably saw that on 924.org. I was also able to create my own arm (atop the transaxle) using rod ends to replacing the factory item with its mushy bearings. In neither case was I blazing new trails, merely replicating what others had done before, but the next results were good with minimal
cost. Mine also came with a completely fubar’d clutch, rubber center having failed. But if yours is OK, that would be $600-$800 to not have to spend. That said, R&R the torque tube is a pig in my experience.
Th fix of using a stout bolt to replace the worn pin fastening the gear shirt to the tube is a good one; I probably saw that on 924.org. I was also able to create my own arm (atop the transaxle) using rod ends to replacing the factory item with its mushy bearings. In neither case was I blazing new trails, merely replicating what others had done before, but the next results were good with minimal
cost. Mine also came with a completely fubar’d clutch, rubber center having failed. But if yours is OK, that would be $600-$800 to not have to spend. That said, R&R the torque tube is a pig in my experience.
John
Thank you both!!!
I just don't get the time I used to have to work on these projects, maybe had 2 hrs over the past 10 days. I already did the CV axles so removal was easy the second time around. I did some measurements at the clutch arm at it seems to have a good bit of life left and I am a little reluctant to do all the R and R of the turbo plumbing at this stage. I am going to limit my work, for the time being to replacing the coupler and ball cup on the shift linkage.
While I didn't get pics yet, The ball cup is completely disintegrated and the coupler has ZERO bushings remaining, its amazing I was able to find a gear at all. The 928 has a very similar coupler arrangement albeit much easier to access.
Now lets talk about access. WTF was Porsche thinking? The top bolts on the snailshell are ridiculous. I have a crazy variety of snap on extensions, universals, and short/long bits etc. and while I was able to get on it, that last bolt is not breaking free. Going to drop the rear suspension to get me access to the linkage. I will probably break that upper bolt free as well just to assist "the next guy" which with my luck, will be me
You guys know I am fairly obsessive in having stock appearance and replacement parts. Managed to pick up a replacement exhaust from Auto Zone of all places for under 250 dollars delivered. Its for a 944 TURBO but as previously reported, it is a direct replacement using the original clamp method of retention. Ignore the exhaust tip length as a PO extended the stock one at some point.
03-17-2023, 09:48 AM
