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For the front, the straightest bumper candidate is painted (black) and has a small but distinct dent just inboard of the left end.
Before fitting, I had to remove the dent so the top cap would sit properly. After some work with the press and hammers, I got it to 90%--good enough for checking the bumper fit.
My other problem was the "skinny" front dogbone, that a PO had cut to 1/3 of original thickness to adjust for the crappy repair on the right front fender.
I did not have a spare, so I made an auxiliary dog bone spacer.
Here's the bumper on the car, with the frunk lid propped in place.
Fit on the left.
And on the right--the "bad" side.
I had one round of fit adjustment, making the holes in the front panel a bit wider so the bumper could shift left, but lots more to do.
More bumper work today. I refit the rear, and made the height better. In the front I redid the profile of the recess on the fender to better accommodate the corner of the top cap.
Back to work on bumper-related work, mostly on the front right fender corner. After the grinding I did yesterday to get the proper recess, the metal got thin and started to crack. That led to another round of welding and grinding. Here's a shot of my son getting it done.
And a close up as the upper recess gets rebuilt.
After 2 more rounds of welding and grinding, the final form is set.
We also started to prepare for transport to the paint shop. I wanted some tie-down points that do not touch paint (looking forward to bringing the car home someday). Here's the solution:
For the front, the square tubes connect across the front torsion bar bolt holes.
The big task today was targeted rust treatment. I decided to use Corroseal, after comparing results to Osopho on some rusty 914 bits. The Corroseal did a better job in creating a black coating.
With my son's help, we started with the trunk lid rear edge, pouring in about a cup of Corroseal, and then tilting the lid in different directions to get complete coverage inside the rear internal rib. We then propped the lid up to drain and dry.
Next we did both doors, again pouring in some Corroseal and coating the bottom internal seam--hoping it will penetrate and fix any rust.
Last, I injected Corroseal into the jack point covers, including the second drain holes I added.