9m 1972 911S repair & restoration - back to original or not?
07-08-2013, 08:47 PM
#214
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All but the aluminium engine lid, the panels are finally in colour. Sorry about the wait, had a minor gas burner fault with the booth last week which prevented us from painting.
We're hoping to start the engine build work again soon, but that all depends on the arrival of a new set of 2.4S pistons & cylinders as everything else is pretty much good to go.
Next in the line will be the gearbox, provided we can find one! Unfortunately Dave seems to think that he used the gearbox in another rally car project so at the moment we don't have one, hence does anyone know of a good 1972 2.4S magnesium case gearbox for sale? Any leads via email please to the usual address....
We're hoping to start the engine build work again soon, but that all depends on the arrival of a new set of 2.4S pistons & cylinders as everything else is pretty much good to go.
Next in the line will be the gearbox, provided we can find one! Unfortunately Dave seems to think that he used the gearbox in another rally car project so at the moment we don't have one, hence does anyone know of a good 1972 2.4S magnesium case gearbox for sale? Any leads via email please to the usual address....
07-09-2013, 09:46 AM
#216
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As long as we can, in general. Paint continues to dry for some months after application and bake, so the longer you can leave it the more stable it becomes and the possibility of shrinkage is diminished. The downside is that the lacquer gets harder, so does the 1200/1500/2000 grit wet flatting process. With a project car like this we would also leave the polishing until the body is fully assembled and sealed, otherwise you risk polish compound getting into all the places where it is difficult to clean out, whereas on a regular job with a fast turnaround we would polish whist the shell is still fully masked and then build the car immediately afterwards.
07-24-2013, 12:51 PM
#217
Three Wheelin'
As long as we can, in general. Paint continues to dry for some months after application and bake, so the longer you can leave it the more stable it becomes and the possibility of shrinkage is diminished. The downside is that the lacquer gets harder, so does the 1200/1500/2000 grit wet flatting process. With a project car like this we would also leave the polishing until the body is fully assembled and sealed, otherwise you risk polish compound getting into all the places where it is difficult to clean out, whereas on a regular job with a fast turnaround we would polish whist the shell is still fully masked and then build the car immediately afterwards.
08-27-2013, 03:38 PM
#218
Three Wheelin'
As long as we can, in general. Paint continues to dry for some months after application and bake, so the longer you can leave it the more stable it becomes and the possibility of shrinkage is diminished. The downside is that the lacquer gets harder, so does the 1200/1500/2000 grit wet flatting process. With a project car like this we would also leave the polishing until the body is fully assembled and sealed, otherwise you risk polish compound getting into all the places where it is difficult to clean out, whereas on a regular job with a fast turnaround we would polish whist the shell is still fully masked and then build the car immediately afterwards.
08-29-2013, 07:10 PM
#219
Racer
I talked to 9M today, nothing much has happened in past two months, something to do with holidays I think. Dont worry though, it all will come together in September ( 2013 ! ).
09-30-2013, 08:51 AM
#220
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Sorry for the radio silence guys, we've all been stuck into other projects whilst waiting for parts.
The engine is coming on, new Mahle pistons & cylinders, new S cams and a new set of rockers:
The engine is coming on, new Mahle pistons & cylinders, new S cams and a new set of rockers:
09-30-2013, 09:17 AM
#221
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Body wise, the shell has been de-masked and cleaned ready to start the re-assembly, although to be fair that's probably a little premature because we still have a lot of prep work to do on the components which have all been dragged back out of their storage hidey-holes.
The alloy engine lid required a little trimming and welding to make fit perfect, welding now done so we will now make a start on preparing the old steel front bumper and new GRP rear unit and paint everything at the same time.
The alloy engine lid required a little trimming and welding to make fit perfect, welding now done so we will now make a start on preparing the old steel front bumper and new GRP rear unit and paint everything at the same time.
10-30-2013, 06:29 PM
#224
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We need to get the shell rolling before we can start the build for real, hence a lot more love is now going into the suspension and running gear:
The eagle eyed might spot an immediate problem with the right hand track rod assembly.
The eagle eyed might spot an immediate problem with the right hand track rod assembly.