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Time to deal with that #1 plug,...........

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Old 12-30-2009, 10:44 PM
  #31  
Ed Hughes
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That sucks.

Rusnak, you may be right, but if I had to wrestle out a broken plug stub, dropping the engine as the first step would be what I'd do. Just like dealing with oil leaks on top, you end up screwing around in contortions trying to work around stuff, when dropping it is fairly simple.
Old 12-30-2009, 10:46 PM
  #32  
rusnak
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Very true. But they want to charge Doyle $250 to drop the motor. And another $250 to put it back. I hope that includes new oil, and they ought to give him a free toaster or something with it.
Old 12-30-2009, 10:57 PM
  #33  
Ed Hughes
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I'd still say that is money well spent and the ONLY way to attempt this, in light of the situation.
Old 12-30-2009, 11:06 PM
  #34  
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I think they are planning but not saying yet, to do an engine teardown. If they are going to spend the money to take the engine out, then they probably should take the camhousing and head off, and do the work on the bench.
Old 12-30-2009, 11:16 PM
  #35  
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ok I found what I was looking for....Here's a cutaway of a spark plug. If the metal hex broke off, and the insulator comes out clean, then the thread portion might come out with an easy out. The #1 cylinder is pretty easy to get to, which is all I was saying about leaving the engine in (but take valve cover off).

Last edited by rusnak; 03-05-2010 at 12:06 AM.
Old 12-30-2009, 11:20 PM
  #36  
Ed Hughes
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Not to belabor this, but since you get limited chance at wrestling the nub out, your odds are greatly improved if you have straight on access and visibility of the hole. As I stated before, removing the engine is the logical first choice and may help himavoid the cost of teardown.
Old 12-31-2009, 12:00 AM
  #37  
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I totally feel for you on this one. When I did my plugs I went through multiple wrenches trying to get the plugs in without them keeping the wrench.

I remember being on the phone with Peter Z. just sobbing (me, not Peter) thinking I had just destroyed my baby. He assured me I was way over reacting and I just needed to find the factory wrench. Of course, as promised the factory wrench well hidden inside the trunk worked like a charm. I went from bawling to overjoyed in no time.

So, hang in there.
Old 12-31-2009, 12:04 AM
  #38  
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Here's a pic of the spark plug with the valve cover removed. It's way down there, so any thought of a pipe wrench or vise grip is out.

Maybe we can brainstorm on this since no one is going to work tomorrow anyway?

Last edited by rusnak; 03-05-2010 at 12:06 AM.
Old 12-31-2009, 12:07 AM
  #39  
Ed Hughes
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I think we need to see what is left to work with. If there is any hex left, the impact hammer would be my vote. See if the first couple of kicks do it. The other way would be to hog out some of the guts and do an easy out, again with an impact gun.
Old 12-31-2009, 12:48 AM
  #40  
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well here is my humble 2 cents .. if the plug broke with breaker bar and correct socket wrench then there is no way in hell the piece left in is coming out with an easy out. I think the head has to come off now and send it to a machine shop . if you continue to bugger around you could make things worse and render the head useless. Even if you use a chaser now to clean up the threads there would still be crap in the combustion chamber .. so I think takin it off will be the way to go
Getting to a point so you can work on it effectively could actually be the most cost effective aproach.
Old 12-31-2009, 06:01 AM
  #41  
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You guys are scaring the sheeit out of me !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Am slated to meet with James this A.M. to discuss things....I wouldn't attempt ANYTHING, at this point, without the engine on the ground....no way.

Hopefully I can get some pics for you guys........

I'm so frikin' bummed. I appreciate all of your insight, comments, humor, support, etc.

Keep me straight, please. Will update you all later today.

AAAAAAAARRRRRGGGGHHHHHHHH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited by dshepp806; 01-01-2010 at 10:09 AM. Reason: spelling
Old 12-31-2009, 08:17 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
I think we need to see what is left to work with. If there is any hex left, the impact hammer would be my vote. See if the first couple of kicks do it. The other way would be to hog out some of the guts and do an easy out, again with an impact gun.
I think that's the plan (impact). , just as you stated, Ed (At least, the original plan).

..I'm dying to get out there this AM to see what's actually left. Yesterday's phone call CERTAINLY contained no mention of a "teardown", going forward....hopefully, THAT'S a positive note.

We shall see.

Thanks to all.

Best,
Old 12-31-2009, 08:18 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by rusnak
I think they are planning but not saying yet, to do an engine teardown. If they are going to spend the money to take the engine out, then they probably should take the camhousing and head off, and do the work on the bench.
(((((gulp)))))))))
Old 12-31-2009, 09:21 AM
  #44  
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Don't give up hope.

This person had a similar problem

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...park-plug.html

Used an easy-out on the plug half

John
Old 12-31-2009, 10:57 AM
  #45  
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Well I am not trying to scare anyone by any means .. just trying to give some options and a few scenarios.
The difference in Johns thread is that it was a plug in their with regular torque that exploded that could be removed. This plug is jammed in their with a possible cross thread. A robust easy out MIGHT get it out but if you bust off a hardened steel easy out in their you just made the machinists job harder. The good news is that if you did in fact do that the head itself is small and portable to work on .. not like you busted it off in an engine block or seomething.
For what it's worth I admire you for doing the right thing. You could have just left it in there but you decided to fix it .. good for you ..


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