When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just drove a gt4rs for 100 miles, and had a Speciale, AND an STO...in no planet in any universe would I EVER pick the Speciale over the GT4rs. I think it's the other way around, Im not sure there's a car that beats the 4RS at the end of the day for the road...I feel like it's the new 997 4.0. The suspension is totally relaxed when you want it to be, the engine and trans are pretty much perfect, the induction noise in your ears is out of this world good, and when I'm in it, I feel like Im in a diet 918, just more immediately agile given the weight difference. FWIW, STO is pretty epic, but it's just too stiff to be much fun if you want the car in Corsa which is the only mode that shuts off cylinder deactivation which otherwise drives me nuts. If they had an EGO mode where you could dial the suspension and the engine settings separately, I'd like it a who lot more.
Awesome end user review. What break do you have on the 4rs? I specced mine in steel.... The STO brake to me is absolutely impressive. Senna uses the same brake as I was told.
Awesome end user review. What break do you have on the 4rs? I specced mine in steel.... The STO brake to me is absolutely impressive. Senna uses the same brake as I was told.
I kept the car I drove under 7k RPM as its still under break in, and even at 7k it's an absolute riot 😂. The STO brakes are maybe one of the best things about that car, and yeah, the STO has that on pretty much any other car on the road 😂. Somehow, lamborghini also found a way to make those brakes on the STO dead quiet which was a major added bonus, though the ceramics on the 4rs I drove didnt make any noise either which was so nice...I really dislike a ton of squeal on a road car, even a track focused one. Apparently the steels have a bit of that but Porsche doesnt do a bad system for these cars. The only other thing Ill add about the 4rs is Id agree that addressing the little bit of corner entry push would be good for the car, but that is literally it and really only an issue if youre being a little silly on the road or just yanking the wheel without a little weight shift to the front first (honestly a 911 needs this too aside from the 992 GT3 which is just stupidly hooked up even from the initial input). You'll be beyond thrilled with the thing, the 4RS is as good as it gets.
So, I had an opportunity to bring the GT4RS out to the track this weekend. It did garner a lot of attention. I did not realize how many people know about this model, as the hype has extended beyond Porsche enthusiasts like us.
There were a couple of basic things I will comment on and then tell you about my experiences on track. The center lock wheels where a bit unnevering. Normally, I check my lugs before and after the first session. But with the centerlocks, that is not a simple process. I asked around some of the GT3 owners if they re-torque during the weekend and all of them said "no". So I figured if the lock mechanism was in place the wheel can't go anywhere. But you can't see the center lock as it is under the decorative cap. I guess I will just have to get used to having them torqued before the event, installing the decorative cap, and then trusing them to stay torqued. Perhaps it would have been as simple as taking the caps off and and putting the wrench on it and testing the torque while the car and the wheels are on the ground. Can someone tell me if this is OK, as the instructions say clearly that the wheel must be in the air? Or, if I even have to worry about the center lug ever loosing up?
Because I am still within the Break In period, I decided to be a good boy and run the first day at 5,000 rpms max. Yes, this is slow in the straight, but the car still rolls pretty good. My max speed in the long straight was 107mph. But, my track times were about the same as my 981 Cayman S, so not slow. I did find something very interesting - near the end sessons I will usually top off my fuel to avoid running out track or even getting the distracting "low fuel" warning light. But when i looked at the fuel gauge it was barely off the full mark. And, this was after 4 - 20 minute sessions - where normally it would be about 2/3rds gone. So just to be safe I went and fueled the car after my 5th sesson and was amazed to see I only burned 6.6 gallons all day. Wowser, short shifting makes a HUGE difference in fuel consumption.
Day two I decided to go to 7,000 rpms max. The car really starts to come alive around 6,000 rpms. My top speed at the end of the straight was 137 mph at 7,000 rpms in 7th gear. I ran behind a pair of GT3s on the last session of the day. The first one being a 3.8ltr 991 and the other one being a 4.0 ltr 991.2. Both GT3 drivers were competent and in group 4. My car and the GT3s were all outfitted with Michelin Cup 2s. All 3 cars where white which I'm told made a good show for those watching the group run around the track in close proximity. The GT4RS was able to hang with the GT3s for the first couple of laps. Then, I was able to get past the 3.8 car on lap 3. I tried my best to get past the 4.0ltr but to no avail. Again, I was limited to 7,000 rpms. And, I had to shift 100% manually to achieve this - and I suck as a gear selector.
The cool thing with this experience was knowing that while I was limiting the GT4RS to a max of 7,000 rpms, the 991.2 GT3 could not leave me. He tried hard, but the GT4RS could close so much in the braking zones and the sweeping turns. To me, it felt like I was a runner pacing myself, and still able to hang with the race leader while he is going all out. Both the leader and the pacer know what is going to be the outcome. And, that is a very good feeling.
I can hardly wait to let the GT4RS stretch its legs. This things is going to be a lot of fun!
Last edited by matttheboatman; 12-05-2022 at 07:33 PM.
I took my 800 kms RS to the track Monday night (Sydney Motorsport Park). Kept to 5000rpm for first 500kms and then 7000rpm till 800kms. Opened it up fully for the track and +100kms during the evening. Before I went out, I moved the shock tops to full inboard to increase camber to max without shiming etc. (factory position is midway). Set the tires (Cup2s) to 30psi hot after first run. The car was fast out of the box and great power out of mid-speed turns. The gearing is spot on and works well on full auto. Brakes are same as any GT4 and initial bite a bit lacking (pads). Straight line speed was enough to stay with 991.2 GT3RS's (lots of well driven ones there on the night) and at 240kph on the main straight was about 10kms up on my old 718 GT4 PDK and 981 GT4 (4.25L). GT2RSs and 720Ss naturally walked away from me. I've not used Cup 2s for some time and they are not the best R-Spec tyre so lots of time to get with better tyres (I'll probably try AO52s next). Overall findings are the car is still quite soft IMO, front tyres did not roll and wore evenly across the tyre, Rears rolled onto the outside edges and need quite a bit more camber plus roll bars set to hard (I'd set the front one to hard as well). The front probably only needs one shim (plus the tops set inboard) and will be great; the car is not an understeerer but the rear is loose. Tyres plus rear camber will result in a fine package.
We ran a faux "race" at the end of the night. It started lightly raining a couple of laps in and we came second after starting 13 from 15. A lot of guys on CupRs plus a couple on slicks so Cup2 helped me, nonetheless the car is good and predicable in the wet. The car now has just over 1000kms and oil is down to one bar so probably about 0.8 to 1.0L for 1000kms which sounds about correct for a new motor.
If anyone knows SMP the car ran a 1:42.8 which is quite good and lots of room to get to at least the 39s I'd say with good tyres and simple alignment tweaks.
Last edited by Warwick Morris; 12-07-2022 at 03:21 AM.
I took my 800 kms RS to the track Monday night (Sydney Motorsport Park). Kept to 5000rpm for first 500kms and then 7000rpm till 800kms. Opened it up fully for the track and +100kms during the evening. Before I went out, I moved the shock tops to full inboard to increase camber to max without shiming etc. (factory position is midway). Set the tires (Cup2s) to 30psi hot after first run. The car was fast out of the box and great power out of mid-speed turns. The gearing is spot on and works well on full auto. Brakes are same as any GT4 and initial bite a bit lacking (pads). Straight line speed was enough to stay with 991.2 GT3RS's (lots of well driven ones there on the night) and at 240kph on the main straight was about 10kms up on my old 718 GT4 PDK and 981 GT4 (4.25L). GT2RSs and 720Ss naturally walked away from me. I've not used Cup 2s for some time and they are not the best R-Spec tyre so lots of time to get with better tyres (I'll probably try AO52s next). Overall findings are the car is still quite soft IMO, front tyres did not roll and wore evenly across the tyre, Rears rolled onto the outside edges and need quite a bit more camber plus roll bars set to hard (I'd set the front one to hard as well). The front probably only needs one shim (plus the tops set inboard) and will be great; the car is not an understeerer but the rear is loose. Tyres plus rear camber will result in a fine package.
We ran a faux "race" at the end of the night. It started lightly raining a couple of laps in and we came second after starting 13 from 15. A lot of guys on CupRs plus a couple on slicks so Cup2 helped me, nonetheless the car is good and predicable in the wet. The car now has just over 1000kms and oil is down to one bar so probably about 0.8 to 1.0L for 1000kms which sounds about correct for a new motor.
If anyone knows SMP the car ran a 1:42.8 which is quite good and lots of room to get to at least the 39s I'd say with good tyres and simple alignment tweaks.
Great report Warwick. Regarding the rear sway bar, i read where you said you would adjust to full hard. The Clubsport racers are setting the rear to full loose, (and I know some teams that disconnect them completely). What is your thinking to go full hard? Also on my 981 GT4 I recall adjusting the rear toe (I believe it was toe out) that settled the rear under heavy braking.
My experience so far with my car is the 4RS feels stable during heavy straightline braking with OEM settings. However, it does start to get jumpy and unstable when going over bumps and curbs.
Great report Warwick. Regarding the rear sway bar, i read where you said you would adjust to full hard. The Clubsport racers are setting the rear to full loose, (and I know some teams that disconnect them completely). What is your thinking to go full hard? Also on my 981 GT4 I recall adjusting the rear toe (I believe it was toe out) that settled the rear under heavy braking.
My experience so far with my car is the 4RS feels stable during heavy straightline braking with OEM settings. However, it does start to get jumpy and unstable when going over bumps and curbs.
That would be Toe In on the rear....all 981/718 need adjustment of the rear toe.
On the GT4 (981/718), the understeer was bad so the rear bar would be adjusted to hard but that's a band aid solution.
Real solution is a good alignment with wider rubber up front and a 9" wide wheel.
With the above recipe I never had to adjust the sway bars....now the GT4RS could be different but doubt it would be a lot different.
I went stiff on rear and medium on front sway bars as I found it was under steering. Maybe the clubsport spec cars are different out of the box in how they behave? Or maybe my settings aren’t right.
I also gave some toe in on rear for high speed braking stability. With these minor adjustments I felt a lot more stable.
I went stiff on rear and medium on front sway bars as I found it was under steering. Maybe the clubsport spec cars are different out of the box in how they behave? Or maybe my settings aren’t right.
I also gave some toe in on rear for high speed braking stability. With these minor adjustments I felt a lot more stable.
Your are on the right path...the CSs uses 3/4 way adjustable dampers with more spring and more importantly 18" slicks with the front being wider than the OEM 20".
The wide front tire is a must on this car. PAG should had put a 9" wheel with 255 or 265s up front.
Very keen to see some aftermarket wheels for the 4RS. And what sizes fit.
personally I want those manthey turbofans! Mainly for looks….
Me too....getting a set is high on my list of priorities.
My only worry is that the offset has to be right with a 9" wide so the tire doesn't stick out too much or that fender cutout will get even more sandblasting at the track.
Your are on the right path...the CSs uses 3/4 way adjustable dampers with more spring and more importantly 18" slicks with the front being wider than the OEM 20".
The wide front tire is a must on this car. PAG should had put a 9" wheel with 255 or 265s up front.
A 245 on a 9 wide wheel may help a little bit since it flattens the fitment and inreases the contact patch. IIRC tirerack mentioned that it would increase tire section/track width by about 1/4.
A 245 on a 9 wide wheel may help a little bit since it flattens the fitment and inreases the contact patch. IIRC tirerack mentioned that it would increase tire section/track width by about 1/4.
Correction. I topped the oil up today and 0.4L took it to 2 bars below the top line. This is the recommended level for hi G (track) driving.
Why would that be? Where did you find this information regarding the GT4RS? On the 996 Carreras, one would always keep as much oil in it to avoid starvation and damage to the engines. I know it’s a completely different animal, but why should one not have max oil level driving on tracks with the GT4RS? Makes no sense. And when done with the track driving? Fill it up again? And then suck out 0,4L before the next track event?? Just ridiculous…
12-05-2022, 04:51 AM
