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Here's my creation for the Spyder. I really dislike the tow hook look. It is aesthetically just horrible IMO. I am actually going to run plateless for most of the time. For times when I do want or need a plate (state inspections, long trips, etc) I constructed this piece using the OEM mounting plate.
1. Sand the back of the OEM plate mount with medium to course grit sandpaper
2. Wash thoroughly with detergent to remove surface oils and allow to fully dry
3. Attach metal L brackets using heavy duty automotive mounting tape. You will have to bend the brackets to a slight obtuse angle (maybe 5-10 degrees)
4. Re-inforce with Gorilla Tape. You will be surprised how strong the combo of the mounting tape and Gorilla tape is.
5. Attach some sort of pad to prevent the stock mounting points from scuffing the bumper. I used velcro
You can now attach the mount by screwing into the underside of the bumper. 2 screws are fine even though you have four holes. One nice thing about using the OEM mount is that it fits the contours of the car and is centered so it doesn't look as hideous. It stays on quite firmly as there is just a small amount of tension between the plate mount and the front bumper face
P.S. After I test mounted as shown in these pics, I actually increased the bend in the L brackets a few degrees so they sit more flush with the underside of the bumper. Not necessary for sturdiness, but I am just OCD that way.
Here's my creation for the Spyder. I really dislike the tow hook look. It is aesthetically just horrible IMO. I am actually going to run plateless for most of the time. For times when I do want or need a plate (state inspections, long trips, etc) I constructed this piece using the OEM mounting plate.
1. Sand the back of the OEM plate mount with medium to course grit sandpaper
2. Wash thoroughly with detergent to remove surface oils and allow to fully dry
3. Attach metal L brackets using heavy duty automotive mounting tape. You will have to bend the brackets to a slight obtuse angle (maybe 5-10 degrees)
4. Re-inforce with Gorilla Tape. You will be surprised how strong the combo of the mounting tape and Gorilla tape is.
5. Attach some sort of pad to prevent the stock mounting points from scuffing the bumper. I used velcro
You can now attach the mount by screwing into the underside of the bumper. 2 screws are fine even though you have four holes. One nice thing about using the OEM mount is that it fits the contours of the car and is centered so it doesn't look as hideous. It stays on quite firmly as there is just a small amount of tension between the plate mount and the front bumper face
... deleted photos...
P.S. After I test mounted as shown in these pics, I actually increased the bend in the L brackets a few degrees so they sit more flush with the underside of the bumper. Not necessary for sturdiness, but I am just OCD that way.
I'm surprised you didn't try the suggestion to use 3M trim tape & T-nuts with no drilling needed. It has worked great for me for over 2 years now. I haven't tried to remove the T-nuts but I see no reason to disrupt what's working well.
See post #41, snipped here: "I'd suggest looking at the very 1st entry of "The Dreaded Front License Plate" thread found here: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/the...3/post-2089643. This is what I did and 2 years later there are no problems and no holes in my bumper either."
Where in NH are you? We're west coast, on the Connecticut.
The USMILL finally came (no, I don't have the car yet).
Fitted a silicone protector at the back to hold the bracket and the plates and a clear cover on top.
Reason, "in case" if someone backs onto the plate, the silicone gives a little cushion. Also I got the quick release; I cut a rectangle shape on the silicone for the QR bracket (see photo).
The silicone covers the clips so the clips won't fall off (see photo).
The only issue I can predict is the weight, the bracket is "heavy" (even the light version). The tow screw is left tighten, I used the hole on the left and the bracket weight is to the right; the weight of the bracket might loosen the tow screw. Anyone have experience with this? And did you use the last left hole for mounting?
Do the Velcro or 3M method; I will do it for you! Free, I am serious. Just don't drill please!
Originally Posted by CaymanMatt
I'm surprised you didn't try the suggestion to use 3M trim tape & T-nuts with no drilling needed. It has worked great for me for over 2 years now. I haven't tried to remove the T-nuts but I see no reason to disrupt what's working well.
I wanted a solution whereby I could fully and easily remove the plate and have the bumper be completely clean. The are only 3 ways to do this:
1. Remove the whole front bumper and attach magnets behind the bumper and then onto the plate mount. Very labor intensive, and I am not sure how secure this would be at speed.
2. Use a tow hook mount
3. Create/buy a center mount the attaches from the underside of the bumper. As I had posted earlier in this thread, with my 981 GTS, I could simply use the OEM mount since it had a flat shelf that you could then use to attach from the underside. For this application, I used the L brackets for fabrication. Works perfectly. The plate can be mounted and unmounted, at will, in about a minute. It is center mounted and there are no visible holes, velcro, tape, pins, etc when the plate is off.
I wanted a solution whereby I could fully and easily remove the plate and have the bumper be completely clean. The are only 3 ways to do this:
1. Remove the whole front bumper and attach magnets behind the bumper and then onto the plate mount. Very labor intensive, and I am not sure how secure this would be at speed.
2. Use a tow hook mount
3. Create/buy a center mount the attaches from the underside of the bumper. As I had posted earlier in this thread, with my 981 GTS, I could simply use the OEM mount since it had a flat shelf that you could then use to attach from the underside. For this application, I used the L brackets for fabrication. Works perfectly. The plate can be mounted and unmounted, at will, in about a minute. It is center mounted and there are no visible holes, velcro, tape, pins, etc when the plate is off.
I understand. Sorry I missed that before. Since it's NH I didn't even think you'd want to take the plate off.
I guess for me the next best method is the rare-earth magnet method that has been used by some. No holes, and nothing attached to the front of the bumper. That to me is the ideal from the aesthetic perspective but requires removal of the bumper to attach.
Your attachment looks good but I worry that the weight of the plate & plate carrier will over time and bumps cause the threads to deform, with the end result being the screws torn out of the bumper. I'm just a pessimist at heart & I hope that doesn't happen!