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I know it was discussed early on, but has anyone made progress with a 5-lug conversion? My TYD image has me wondering.
The only progress I made was to discuss it earlier in this thread. I got completely discouraged and believe it would be cheaper to carry an aluminum jack, jack stand, Optimal Paste, and special torque wrench for my mountain drives. I will actually just carry a tire plug kit as usual and hope for the best, or hire a flat bed truck to take me to a Porsche dealer if I get a flat on mountain road driving. Your situation on tracking the car and swapping tires is different. Keep JMartpr 's post in mind on the unique track width increase with the GT4RS..
To read more see posts 5599 to 5618.
In 5618 you will see 12 year old prices. Calling Suncoast and seeing if they have a conversion kit with today's prices may help you decide.
From post 5618:
Originally Posted by TXshaggy
It was done on a 997 GT3
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...ispreloading=1 As shown in the quoted link above it is a part swap out but still takes 3 to 4 hours of labor per corner, plus add a 4 wheel alignment when all done. From post #91 in the above link here is the parts list for a 997 and 2011 pricing as a Rennlist special buy from Suncoast: Post #91 I just arranged a RENNLIST Group Buy with SUNCOAST for those interested in doing the 5 lug conversion.
You will need two of each of the following ......plus bolts or studs/nuts:
One thing to consider is that extra track the 4RS has front and rear is probanbly the result of the center lock hubs.....so if that's the case you have to consider custom wheels with non stock offsets to compensate, if you want to keep the geometry OEM.
Studs instead of wheel bolts and 5mm spacer takes care of the geometry issues if you converted to 5 lug.
...carry an aluminum jack, jack stand, Optimal Paste, and special torque wrench for my mountain drives. I will actually just carry a tire plug kit as usual....
Similar to what i do with my other Porsches, but some thoughts:
The stock 996 Turbo lightweight aluminum scissor jack is perfect for a lightweight take-along jack... You can often find them on eBay, or Pelican Parts if you get desperate and don't mind paying up...
No real need for a jack stand for emergency roadside tire repairs.
No real need to bring the optimal paste either... Yes, I'll lube the CL hubs whenever I'm servicing them in the shop, but honestly I've never taken one off when there wasn't already enough paste on there to just redistribute it a bit with my finger. More than adequate for an emergency roadside/trackside repair and can be redone when back home.
A 3:1 torque multiplier is much more compact than the huge precision torque wrench and will easily fit in my frunk tool bag along with a standard 1/2" torque wrench.
For tire plugs, I love the Dynaplug system. WAY better than the huge plugs used on most other systems, and doesn't require you to first bore out the offending hole much bigger before plugging it.... Perfect for the nail or screw holes that you might occasionally pick up. I can usually fix one of those without even dismounting the tire.
All of these items live in my zippered tool bag in my frunk, along with a 12V air compressor and tool roll.
The only progress I made was to discuss it earlier in this thread. I got completely discouraged and believe it would be cheaper to carry an aluminum jack, jack stand, Optimal Paste, and special torque wrench for my mountain drives. I will actually just carry a tire plug kit as usual and hope for the best, or hire a flat bed truck to take me to a Porsche dealer if I get a flat on mountain road driving. Your situation on tracking the car and swapping tires is different. Keep JMartpr 's post in mind on the unique track width increase with the GT4RS..
To read more see posts 5599 to 5618.
In 5618 you will see 12 year old prices. Calling Suncoast and seeing if they have a conversion kit with today's prices may help you decide.
From post 5618:
Originally Posted by TXshaggy
It was done on a 997 GT3
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...ispreloading=1 As shown in the quoted link above it is a part swap out but still takes 3 to 4 hours of labor per corner, plus add a 4 wheel alignment when all done. From post #91 in the above link here is the parts list for a 997 and 2011 pricing as a Rennlist special buy from Suncoast: Post #91 I just arranged a RENNLIST Group Buy with SUNCOAST for those interested in doing the 5 lug conversion.
You will need two of each of the following ......plus bolts or studs/nuts:
On the listed parts above, this saves you over $400 off MSRP pricing and over $55 off the current Suncoast pricing.
Call Ric Knab at SUNCOAST at 877-923-1700.
Its great that someone figured this out in 2011. Thank you TX Shaggy for replying to my post with this valuable info.
I tried to cross reference some number for the 718 but the parts sites seem to cross up the front and rear hub assemblies giving the same part number for both.
Anyway, here is a representation of one axle, so of course you would multiply this total by plus labour (at a minimum).
I tried to cross reference some number for the 718 but the parts sites seem to cross up the front and rear hub assemblies giving the same part number for both.
Anyway, here is a representation of one axle, so of course you would multiply this total by plus labour (at a minimum).
Yep, so I was at my shop today and they said that the 4RS and casual GT4, wheel hub and bearing are interchangeable and should just bolt right up. So that seems to be the way.
They are doing one soon.
One of our GT4RS customers sent in a picture of the tool in use. Great color!
That car and garage looks familiar!!!!
The Renntorq is great and I'm now considering changing tires at the track instead of doing it at home before the event.....this open up to possibility of again using track tires like R7s or DHs
Also, it's very easy to use and required little effort.....no going back to breaker bar and the large torque wrench.
Yep, so I was at my shop today and they said that the 4RS and casual GT4, wheel hub and bearing are interchangeable and should just bolt right up. So that seems to be the way.
They are doing one soon.
It would be greatly appreciated for the users of this forum if you could follow up with your shop after they do the conversion and confirm that it is this simple, or was something else required?
I know a four wheel alignment would be required but that is no big deal. Plus spacers and 5 longer bolts for each wheel.
Similar to what i do with my other Porsches, but some thoughts:
The stock 996 Turbo lightweight aluminum scissor jack is perfect for a lightweight take-along jack... You can often find them on eBay, or Pelican Parts if you get desperate and don't mind paying up...
No real need for a jack stand for emergency roadside tire repairs.
No real need to bring the optimal paste either... Yes, I'll lube the CL hubs whenever I'm servicing them in the shop, but honestly I've never taken one off when there wasn't already enough paste on there to just redistribute it a bit with my finger. More than adequate for an emergency roadside/trackside repair and can be redone when back home.
A 3:1 torque multiplier is much more compact than the huge precision torque wrench and will easily fit in my frunk tool bag along with a standard 1/2" torque wrench.
For tire plugs, I love the Dynaplug system. WAY better than the huge plugs used on most other systems, and doesn't require you to first bore out the offending hole much bigger before plugging it.... Perfect for the nail or screw holes that you might occasionally pick up. I can usually fix one of those without even dismounting the tire.
All of these items live in my zippered tool bag in my frunk, along with a 12V air compressor and tool roll.
Great info Thanks.
Was not aware of the 3 :1 torque multiplier tool (so about 150 ft-lb of torque needed). But even with the Renn Torq multiplier tool with greater multiplication (95 ft-lb) it should be safer to use a jack stand, especially if the wheel is coming off to get a new tire for example. The Rennstand Safe Jack allows the jack to lift at the factory point and the vertical stands get installed front and rear of the center piece that fits into the factory lift point.
It would be greatly appreciated for the users of this forum if you could follow up with your shop after they do the conversion and confirm that it is this simple, or was something else required?
I know a four wheel alignment would be required but that is no big deal. Plus spacers and 5 longer bolts for each wheel.
02-08-2023, 08:44 PM
