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So i just noticed the attachment point for the rear tow hook is under the license plate. On track i like to have front and rear tow hooks pre-installed just in case. Taking the plate on and off not a good solution as it will inevitably be driven off track for lunch or otherwise time constrained. Was thinking does anyone make a flip up license plate holder that would look good?
You may have to make it yourself. A trip to a hardware store or home building supply store can provide small hinges for small cabinet doors that can screw to the top of white rectangle in your photo. The plate attaches to a hinge on the left and right sides. Once attached the bottom of the plate flips up to install the tow hook and a bunge cord is used to keep the plate from flapping up and down while on the track. When driving on the street a screw thru the plate into the plastic tow hook cover will fix it tight.
In your photo and other photos I've seen of the rectangle that the plate attaches to I do not see any grommets to screw two bolts into to hold the plate firm. Is this rectangle in the rear fascia similar to the place in the front fascia which has dimples molded indicating where to drill holes to attach the front brackt to hold the front plate, or in the case of the rear plate do holes get drilled into molded dimples in the rectangle to hold the plate since there are no grommets with threads?
Last edited by very green R; 11-12-2022 at 04:14 PM.
You may have to make it yourself. A trip to a hardware store or home building supply store can provide small hinges for small cabinet doors that can screw to the top of white rectangle in your photo. The plate attaches to a hinge on the left and right sides. Once attached the bottom of the plate flips up to install the tow hook and a bunge cord is used to keep the plate from flapping up and down while on the track. When driving on the street a screw thru the plate into the plastic tow hook cover will fix it tight.
In your photo and other photos I've seen of the rectangle that the plate attaches to I do not see any grommets to screw two bolts into to hold the plate firm. Is this rectangle in the rear fascia similar to the place in the front fascia which has dimples molded indicating where to drill holes to attach the front brackt to hold the front plate, or in the case of the rear plate do holes get drilled into molded dimples in the rectangle to hold the plate since there are no grommets with threads?
Yes. The only discrenable difference I found was the non-WP car seamed to be less loud in the cabin.
Your difference matches what AP said in the Top Gear video, something to the effect the WP sounded a little better but it was also a little louder.
Did the WP vs non WP have a difference in brakes PCCB vs iron, or in wheels Magnesium vs aluminum? If yes what was the difference and did you notice any difference in: Steering feel or response, acceleration, braking, or ride?
Thank you
You may have to make it yourself. A trip to a hardware store or home building supply store can provide small hinges for small cabinet doors that can screw to the top of white rectangle in your photo. The plate attaches to a hinge on the left and right sides. Once attached the bottom of the plate flips up to install the tow hook and a bunge cord is used to keep the plate from flapping up and down while on the track. When driving on the street a screw thru the plate into the plastic tow hook cover will fix it tight.
In your photo and other photos I've seen of the rectangle that the plate attaches to I do not see any grommets to screw two bolts into to hold the plate firm. Is this rectangle in the rear fascia similar to the place in the front fascia which has dimples molded indicating where to drill holes to attach the front brackt to hold the front plate, or in the case of the rear plate do holes get drilled into molded dimples in the rectangle to hold the plate since there are no grommets with threads?
Picked up the 4RS yesterday because I can't get it PPF'd until next week. Didn't want it just sitting in the dealer lot for a week. Put 20 miles on it yesterday. 2,000 miles of break in is going to be very difficult. So far the biggest surprise is just how different it sounds than my GT3. They sound like completely different cars. The intake noise even at low RPMs is just amazing. Many people said the car was too loud. I thought it would be overbearing at all RPM ranges. It actually sounds quieter than my GT3 I think with sport exhaust off and just cruising at low RPMs. Easy to have a conversation with someone or hear the radio. I also don't think it feels any firmer than my GT3 on normal roads. People kept talking about how bumpy it was. My friend said he thought the GT3 felt firmer. I know that's not the case, but it doesn't feel any harder. So far I'm in love, and I guess I'm definitely keeping both.
Not according to the manual, IIRC 932 miles might have been for the GT3.
Yes, but given that the 992 GT3 and GT4 RS share the same engine, it's reasonable to wonder if this is simply a typo in the GT4 RS manual. GT3 is 932 miles under 7,000 rpm. 4k rpm for this engine seems absurd to me.
Yes, but given that the 992 GT3 and GT4 RS share the same engine, it's reasonable to wonder if this is simply a typo in the GT4 RS manual.
We can debate the premise that it is a typo, but unless Porsche comes out with a revision to the GT4 RS manual, what was pictured is the 'factory recommendation' for the GT4 RS. And perhaps new information has prompted Porsche to revise/increase the recommended break in distance?
People have their own ideas and will do what they want right down to no break in at all, one reason I loath to buy a used car, as unpopular as my comments on this may be I choose to follow the factory recommendations.
We can debate the premise that it is a typo, but unless Porsche comes out with a revision to the GT4 RS manual, what was pictured is the 'factory recommendation' for the GT4 RS. And perhaps new information has prompted Porsche to revise/increase the recommended break in distance?
People have their own ideas and will do what they want right down to no break in at all, one reason I loath to buy a used car, as unpopular as my comments on this may be I choose to follow the factory recommendations.
Isn't it interesting how lawyers on different continents, in different countries, etc write the manual.
The factory is in Germany but people's attitudes and expectations are reflected by their upbringing and experiences.
We can debate the premise that it is a typo, but unless Porsche comes out with a revision to the GT4 RS manual, what was pictured is the 'factory recommendation' for the GT4 RS. And perhaps new information has prompted Porsche to revise/increase the recommended break in distance?
I think we'll know when/if the dashboard message about break-in disappears at 932 miles (rather than double that).
Also, if there had been some additional information learned that prompted a more conservative break-in for this engine, then I would have expected it to be reflected for the 992 GT3 for the new 2023 Model Year (and it hasn't been).
11-12-2022, 04:12 PM
