AO

Auto rotor Guys (and maybe some eatons too)-

How are you counter holding the pulley for loosening and tightening? There is a spot on the pulley for two pins - I assume for this specific task, but I cannot find a tool for it. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

DR

Hi Andrew,

You can make a tool for this (see photos) very easily. Or you can call Kenne Bell and ask for part # SC3140 Pulley wrench for $25.

Hope that helps!

AO

Thanks DR... I was trying to visualize a way to fab this, but a picture is worth a thousand words. BTW, new rad showed up today!

Vlocity

I have had a couple of inquires on my 4 inch air intake set up. There were questions concerning where I relocated the electrical. I am including a couple of additional pictures that may help.

You will also note that my 4 inch connector that runs under the tower brace is now much more rounded than the original which I squished too much during the first attempt. I've got 4 track days on this set up and it is working perfectly.

As an aside....I just received my 8 rib 2.5 inch pulley this morning. IF...I am able to sort out my Accusump install before heading to Mid Ohio on Monday and Tuesday next week, I hope to give it a test and see where the boost pressure settles.

I also received my event confirmation and I was moved into the A run group (usually instructors) and they advised I would not have an instructor.....I'm trying not to take it personally......but I don't think anyone wants to ride with me. LOL

Ken

Tony

Hi Ken
Darien and I just got his fabbed up in similar fashion using using some of your pics as guidence...thanks. Measured hundreds of times...cut once!

We made the hole in the fender oval and kept an oval crossection in the 90' turn....the oval transitions to round just after it passes under the cross brace and jut before the MAF. Doing this allowed the coil to stay in the stock location. We saved the bracket for the jumpstart terminal after it was cut off and will use it in a different location close by. The big oval filter fits perfectly behind the headlight and the wheel liner fits Its looking VERY clean at this point. We are going to add a small shroud just after the headlight to prevent any rain water striking the filter via the gap in the fender and headlight ring. A real big key in this was the "chimeny" on the passenger side timing belt cover.....we cut it down by half an inch and it gave us much more room to get everything under the cross brace without shimming the brace up. We also shortend one fender bolt/fastenter by 1/2 inch ..this allowed the hole to be cut just a bit higher and not have the bolt hit the pipe as it passes through.
Ill get some pics of it when i take my camera up there next time as it will explain it all better. Im pretty convinced that this is THEEEE way to run the filter/intake setup for all the early Andy Keel kits! Bill....you gotta do this one. The filter we have now is almost twice the size of the original one and its fed by fresh, very cool air from the front fender area

Thanks for your pics and input on it Ken!

are you feeeding a 4 inch MAF and throttle also?

Vlocity

Tony & Darien:

I'm glad it is working out for you....I also cut down the timing cover "chimney" I forgot to mention that part. I'm running a 4 inch to 3 3/4 inch rubber reducer right before the Maf. I think that part number is included in my earlier post.

It's probably not a bad idea having an aluminum shield...I figured that with the aero deflection over the front of the car, there probably wouldn't be much infiltration.....that area always looks dry when I've looked.

It would be nice to get some dyno numbers after the install to see if there was any improvement. I certainly believe that there is no "drag" upstream from the blower now.

Thanks for posting.......

Ken

Darien

Well, after studying Ken's design and help from the "man" Tony, I finally got the cold air intake installed.

We went for the oval shape through the fender and it allowed for minimal re-positioning of the harness, coil, hose and I kept the stock horns

I'm not sure what difference it will make, but I mounted the air temp sensor on the tube inside the fender. Up until this point, I've had it laying on top of the intake manifold?

Once the temps get cooler here in Vegas, I'll take her back to the dyno

Thanks Ken and Tony

Here are a few pics before clean-up

Darien

One more...

Darien

Another...

John Speake

Very neat Darien and Tony !

Having the airtemp sensor resting on the intake would not be a good idea if it was making thermal contact. Once the sensor reads above 50degC the igntion is retarded 3 degrees...

EZ-F SharkTuner for 85/86 is working fine, I tried it on my own car at the weekend.

Imo000

Nice work, but I don’t like the look of having the AIT sensor so far upstream from the engine. It can give misleading data when it’s only reading the incoming air temps at the fender. In reality it should read what the engine is actually receiving and that would be as close to the intake manifold as possible. If you are running and intercooler it might be even better to have the sensor in the manifold, after the air is cooled. Am I wrong in this?

By the way, I love the throttle linkage!

AO

Darien-
That's one sweet looking dirt devil! Nice job on the cold air too!

Bill Ball

Ken, Tony & Darien:

Great stuff! I've stared at that area a few times but haven't cut sheet metal.

I'm thinking of keeping all of this 3" since the MAF is no larger than that. I can't see what 4" does except perhaps allow a larger filter. BTW, I've bought some AEM synthetic filters that require no oil. I've got a huge one for the fender area.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
If the intake were REALLY long, a larger diameter through most of the path, even if it necked down along the way, would reduce resistance to air flow.

Darien, what are the dimenions of that oval? Did you guys just compress a round pipe? What size was it before compression? I think the aluminum pipe I have bought for this is 3.5" outer dimension.

Bill Ball

As regard the intake air temp sensor....it is originally mounted into the top of the factory intake manifold, right? Andy just stuck it onto the outiside of the pizza box manifold, presuming the box metal would be the same as the air temp. I can see how it would equalize over time, but transient air temp changes wouldn't be detected. Wouldn't a threaded hole into the interior of the pizza box be the better way to do this?

Darien

Thanks guys... We just took the 4" tube and compressed it to make the right size. I was actually debating over 3.5" vs. 4" tubing, but since Ken had already made it work and gave the order info, I chose the 4".

As for the air temp sensor, before the SC install, it was originally installed into the air cleaner just before the MAF. I chose it's current location for a cleaner look. I too think it may be better off placed somewhere more down stream closer to the opening on the backside of the SC.

The K&N RF 1034 is more than twice as large as the previous I had installed. After reading Ken's write-up from K&N, I chose the same (Your engine requires 877 CFM. That is 146 square inches of surface area. The RF-1034 will flow 975 CFM and has 162 square inches of surface area.)