Oil filter canister bypass disable
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Oil filter canister bypass disable
Anyone know the best way to disable the canister bypass..? And is this a good idea..?
#2
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Get the LN Engineering spin on oil filter adapter and then you don't have to worry about it. And, no, I don't think it would be a good idea in the OE canister type filter. Just my two cents...
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allcool (03-29-2024),
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#3
Rennlist Member
I believe the reason there is a bypass is because the canister isn't designed to withstand the possible pressure if you did.
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allcool (03-29-2024)
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
#5
Rennlist Member
Right now on Sally I have the spin-on filter with LN adaptor ( and also a "sandwitch spacer") because I wanted a place to put extra oil pressure and temperature sensors in the system to hook to AIM Data system...
But I have ran Sally for over a decade with the by-passed OEM canister filter. I popped out the by-pass valve/spring/cup and filled it high temp two part epoxy...
I prefer the cartridge filter due to more filter area and no cutting open a metal can for inspection.....after 1000's of small and large cuts from sharp edged metal in 45 years working in the Automotive world and Racing world I tend to prefer to stay away when fesibible...
Nothing wrong with either one but I do NOT like the OEM by-pass location in the BOTTOM of the canister,period. It is where any metal particles will lay and flow if/when the by-pass opens..
Personally I think a billet aluminum canister with "no by-pass" to fit OEM style cartridge filters would be " IDEAL,", but I don't know "the market" would agree.($$$?)....
But I have ran Sally for over a decade with the by-passed OEM canister filter. I popped out the by-pass valve/spring/cup and filled it high temp two part epoxy...
I prefer the cartridge filter due to more filter area and no cutting open a metal can for inspection.....after 1000's of small and large cuts from sharp edged metal in 45 years working in the Automotive world and Racing world I tend to prefer to stay away when fesibible...
Nothing wrong with either one but I do NOT like the OEM by-pass location in the BOTTOM of the canister,period. It is where any metal particles will lay and flow if/when the by-pass opens..
Personally I think a billet aluminum canister with "no by-pass" to fit OEM style cartridge filters would be " IDEAL,", but I don't know "the market" would agree.($$$?)....
The following users liked this post:
allcool (03-29-2024)
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Right now on Sally I have the spin-on filter with LN adaptor ( and also a "sandwitch spacer") because I wanted a place to put extra oil pressure and temperature sensors in the system to hook to AIM Data system...
But I have ran Sally for over a decade with the by-passed OEM canister filter. I popped out the by-pass valve/spring/cup and filled it high temp two part epoxy...
I prefer the cartridge filter due to more filter area and no cutting open a metal can for inspection.....after 1000's of small and large cuts from sharp edged metal in 45 years working in the Automotive world and Racing world I tend to prefer to stay away when fesibible...
Nothing wrong with either one but I do NOT like the OEM by-pass location in the BOTTOM of the canister,period. It is where any metal particles will lay and flow if/when the by-pass opens..
Personally I think a billet aluminum canister with "no by-pass" to fit OEM style cartridge filters would be " IDEAL,", but I don't know "the market" would agree.($$$?)....
But I have ran Sally for over a decade with the by-passed OEM canister filter. I popped out the by-pass valve/spring/cup and filled it high temp two part epoxy...
I prefer the cartridge filter due to more filter area and no cutting open a metal can for inspection.....after 1000's of small and large cuts from sharp edged metal in 45 years working in the Automotive world and Racing world I tend to prefer to stay away when fesibible...
Nothing wrong with either one but I do NOT like the OEM by-pass location in the BOTTOM of the canister,period. It is where any metal particles will lay and flow if/when the by-pass opens..
Personally I think a billet aluminum canister with "no by-pass" to fit OEM style cartridge filters would be " IDEAL,", but I don't know "the market" would agree.($$$?)....
Exactly what I'll do. Think JB weld is good to use..?
#7
Rennlist Member
Back in the old days when epoxy's were just invented, we used them to strengthen engine block cylinders ( for 6 second Drag Cars) by filling the water jackets around the cylinders with Epoxy.. Devcon A was the go-to Epoxy back then for this purpose..
Epoxy has developed a bunch since then ( and gotten less expensive due to demand),
Several Epoxys will perform but my recomendation would be this j-b high temp 550* https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-High-Epoxy-Syringe/dp/B09Q8DQLJ2
EDIT::
Also FWIW ;; There are two by-passes in the oil pressure cicruit that needs to be understood.....
The main oil pressure by-pass that is located in the oil pump housing, it controls the oil pressure to keep the pressure down to a safe minimum..
The second by-pass that is located in the oil filter/canister. It "by-passes the oil filter" ie allows un-filtered oil to flow "around" the oil filter.......It's job is to sence a pressure diffferential across the oil filter, and if the oil filter can not flow enough oil to keep the differential low, it will open and allow unfilter oil to flow "around the oil filter" thereby by-passing the filter.. THIS IS NOT A GOOD THING IMHO .. It is only there encase the oil filter gets so dirty it can't flow enough oil, or the filter itself can not flow enough due to design/material...
And as far as strength goes, I have seen plenty of metal spin-on filters burst ( especially Fram, some are 3x better like WIX) when the main by-pass sticks, but I have never seen one of the plastic canisters burst under pressure...I don't know how much pressure it would take to burst the plastic canister, but it would be a LOT...
Last edited by Porschetech3; 03-30-2024 at 01:23 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Porschetech3:
allcool (03-30-2024),
FunWithPaul (07-12-2024)
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allcool (03-30-2024)
#9
Rennlist Member
Back in the old days when epoxy's were just invented, we used them to strengthen engine block cylinders ( for 6 second Drag Cars) by filling the water jackets around the cylinders with Epoxy.. Devcon A was the go-to Epoxy back then for this purpose..
Epoxy has developed a bunch since then ( and gotten less expensive due to demand),
Several Epoxys will perform but my recomendation would be this j-b high temp 550* https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-High-Epoxy-Syringe/dp/B09Q8DQLJ2
EDIT::
Also FWIW ;; There are two by-passes in the oil pressure cicruit that needs to be understood.....
The main oil pressure by-pass that is located in the oil pump housing, it controls the oil pressure to keep the pressure down to a safe minimum..
The second by-pass that is located in the oil filter/canister. It "by-passes the oil filter" ie allows un-filtered oil to flow "around" the oil filter.......It's job is to sence a pressure diffferential across the oil filter, and if the oil filter can not flow enough oil to keep the differential low, it will open and allow unfilter oil to flow "around the oil filter" thereby by-passing the filter.. THIS IS NOT A GOOD THING IMHO .. It is only there encase the oil filter gets so dirty it can't flow enough oil, or the filter itself can not flow enough due to design/material...
And as far as strength goes, I have seen plenty of metal spin-on filters burst ( especially Fram, some are 3x better like WIX) when the main by-pass sticks, but I have never seen one of the plastic canisters burst under pressure...I don't know how much pressure it would take to burst the plastic canister, but it would be a LOT...
Epoxy has developed a bunch since then ( and gotten less expensive due to demand),
Several Epoxys will perform but my recomendation would be this j-b high temp 550* https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-High-Epoxy-Syringe/dp/B09Q8DQLJ2
EDIT::
Also FWIW ;; There are two by-passes in the oil pressure cicruit that needs to be understood.....
The main oil pressure by-pass that is located in the oil pump housing, it controls the oil pressure to keep the pressure down to a safe minimum..
The second by-pass that is located in the oil filter/canister. It "by-passes the oil filter" ie allows un-filtered oil to flow "around" the oil filter.......It's job is to sence a pressure diffferential across the oil filter, and if the oil filter can not flow enough oil to keep the differential low, it will open and allow unfilter oil to flow "around the oil filter" thereby by-passing the filter.. THIS IS NOT A GOOD THING IMHO .. It is only there encase the oil filter gets so dirty it can't flow enough oil, or the filter itself can not flow enough due to design/material...
And as far as strength goes, I have seen plenty of metal spin-on filters burst ( especially Fram, some are 3x better like WIX) when the main by-pass sticks, but I have never seen one of the plastic canisters burst under pressure...I don't know how much pressure it would take to burst the plastic canister, but it would be a LOT...
I had always just assumed these bypasses were for very cold engines that were rev’d high.
The following users liked this post:
allcool (03-30-2024)
#10
Race Car
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Right now on Sally I have the spin-on filter with LN adaptor ( and also a "sandwitch spacer") because I wanted a place to put extra oil pressure and temperature sensors in the system to hook to AIM Data system...
But I have ran Sally for over a decade with the by-passed OEM canister filter. I popped out the by-pass valve/spring/cup and filled it high temp two part epoxy...
I prefer the cartridge filter due to more filter area and no cutting open a metal can for inspection.....after 1000's of small and large cuts from sharp edged metal in 45 years working in the Automotive world and Racing world I tend to prefer to stay away when fesibible...
Nothing wrong with either one but I do NOT like the OEM by-pass location in the BOTTOM of the canister,period. It is where any metal particles will lay and flow if/when the by-pass opens..
Personally I think a billet aluminum canister with "no by-pass" to fit OEM style cartridge filters would be " IDEAL,", but I don't know "the market" would agree.($$$?)....
But I have ran Sally for over a decade with the by-passed OEM canister filter. I popped out the by-pass valve/spring/cup and filled it high temp two part epoxy...
I prefer the cartridge filter due to more filter area and no cutting open a metal can for inspection.....after 1000's of small and large cuts from sharp edged metal in 45 years working in the Automotive world and Racing world I tend to prefer to stay away when fesibible...
Nothing wrong with either one but I do NOT like the OEM by-pass location in the BOTTOM of the canister,period. It is where any metal particles will lay and flow if/when the by-pass opens..
Personally I think a billet aluminum canister with "no by-pass" to fit OEM style cartridge filters would be " IDEAL,", but I don't know "the market" would agree.($$$?)....
To me, can't see how the spin on adapters are beneficial, other than a faster oil change at the cost of not being able to easily see the filter pleats and a smaller more easily plugged filter media. Just another place for a possible leak. Unless you need an aux oil pressure port for a imsb solution or a oil pressure gauge/etc.
With the oem oil pump bypass set @5bar, doesn't seem possible for oem canister to burst at 5bar max pressure the OPB allows. Has anyone ever seen one burst,? seems the polyurethane type plastic is stout and maybe more robust than beer can thick spin ons.
The billet canister sounds neat but its mostly bling imo, as the oem one with your bypass delete and your magnets, is identically sufficient imo. The M96 engine isn't my idea of an engine I want to dre$$ up. I'm not one to put lip$tick on a pig and call it Gal Gadot...
jmo
Last edited by allcool; 03-31-2024 at 11:11 AM.
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FunWithPaul (07-11-2024)
#12
Rennlist Member
I learned recently that Porsche recommends you replace your filter housing every two years or something to keep the bypass functioning optimally? This sounds lame, but it's only $30 and comes with a factory filter element installed already.
99610702055 is the part number.
I wouldn't get rid of the bypass on a canister filter, but understand people's reasoning for wanting to.
99610702055 is the part number.
I wouldn't get rid of the bypass on a canister filter, but understand people's reasoning for wanting to.
#13
Rennlist Member
It’s possible that people who aren’t Porsche experts doing oil changes might accidentally throw out the bypass when they do an oil change and not realize it.
#14
Rennlist Member
Exactly !! I have seen it more than once when using "off-brand cartridge filters" . The filters fit too tight and when removing the filters it pops the by-pass out of the canister and is thrown away with the filter...This causes "ALL ThE OIL TO BE UNFILTERED "...This is even worse than having the by-pass in the bottom that opens and allows debris to circulate...
I would surmize that more than a few engines have been ruined by this occurance...." Please pay attention to this !! "
I would surmize that more than a few engines have been ruined by this occurance...." Please pay attention to this !! "
I learned recently that Porsche recommends you replace your filter housing every two years or something to keep the bypass functioning optimally? This sounds lame, but it's only $30 and comes with a factory filter element installed already.
99610702055 is the part number.
I wouldn't get rid of the bypass on a canister filter, but understand people's reasoning for wanting to.
99610702055 is the part number.
I wouldn't get rid of the bypass on a canister filter, but understand people's reasoning for wanting to.
The following 2 users liked this post by Porschetech3:
996-CAB (04-02-2024),
FunWithPaul (07-11-2024)
#15
Advanced
Last edited by URO Support; 07-01-2024 at 08:17 PM.
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