Porschetech3

@URO Support Thank you for manufacturing this !! Do you have a Retail link you can post to order this ? I searched the part number but it just pulls up the factory display and specs..

I want to buy one !! I may want to "modify" it for my use , like disabling the by-pass and may even add some ports for oil pressure and oil temp ect ...This is much better than starting with the "sandwich adapter" that places the very small filter way too low/close to the ground...

allcool

Thanks, nice unit.

Where do you get them...? How much $. I must be missing something,,, no buy now button on the uro link.

URO Support

This item was just announced a few weeks ago, so as of now only Rock Auto is listing it. It'll soon be available from a multitude of retailers, please search for "URO Parts 99610702055PRM" periodically. We're looking forward to your feedback!

Porschetech3

@URO Support I just ordered it from link you posted !!

I will certainly give feedback on it ...Thank you for supporting our 996 cars !!!

BTW : Great price too ! ​​​​​​​

allcool

Ditto. Great ideas, I need an oil port....

Just ordered 1 on rock auto.
Last month bought the oem plastic 1 on Pelican with filter for $30. So a nice aluminum 1 for 8$ more seems like a bargain.

Porschetech3

Yeah, I had to buy the LN Spin-on Adapter, then buy the Sandwich Adapter ( to put the oil pressure, oil temp, ect) then buy the shortest Spin-on Filter, and with all that it hangs pretty low and costs $$$.

I'm hoping this Aluminum housing is thick enough to easily drill and tap the extra ports straight into it...

allcool

Not familiar with 7031 aluminum, hoping if its not thick enough to support a threaded fitting, can just weld on a bung..?

Porschetech3

Expert welders can weld anything ....I have taken unknown aluminum materials to welders before and they don't bat an eye, they just look at it , grab the stuff they need and weld it ...lol

I remember back in the 70's taking a Turbo exhaust housing ( made of high nickle nodular iron ) and a gray cast iron exhaust manifold I had cut the flanges off both and port matched them and fitted them, then took it to Ken Carrol Welding , He used a special alloy rod and welded them together. I raced it for years and it is still together ...lol

I have no problem throwing some coin to a welder, Lord knows we need more craftsmen these days and they need to make a respectable living. I would be nice if the housing is thick enough to drill and tap straight into though..

It will need to be index/matched to the engine though...the rotating/threaded connection can end up at of 360* position so it will need to be index/matched to the case..

junior23

I was thinking of doing the same the other day. How do you find the data readings from this spot, and does the sandwich adapter make the filter hang alot lower? Thanks!

Porschetech3

The oil pressure reading is about 15-20 psi "higher" than the reading of the pressure at the port on the head , but pressure drops are just as instantaneous at either place...

The oil temperature reading at this location is "lower" than the reading from the factory temp sensor in the Sump, but is " higher" than a oil temp reading at the port in the head ...These different temperature readings represent the cooling effect of the oil in the Sump and also the cooling effect of the oil after it has been through the heat exchanger...

Yes, with the spin-on adapter and the sandwitch adapter, the filter will hang lower than is desired...

allcool

Yes, port needs to be indexed for sure.

Do you think a port in the filter housing used with an accusump would back feed thru the pump when pump momentarily losses its head/prime..? Or would pump act like a check valve sort of..? would accusump back feed head of pump enough to quicken the pumps ability to regain its head pressure faster..?

Porschetech3

Accusump doesn't feedback to the pump, the pump does its thing, the by-pass valve/spring does its thing, and the Accusump does its thing...

The Accusump reacts to pressure, just like the by-pass valve/spring . They both are just springs, one is an air spring, one is a metal spring , they both react to a loss in pressure ( or to an increase in pressure)..

Oil is a non-compressible fluid ( so it transfers pressure like a solid rod/shaft), but it flows like a liquid. When the oil pump starts picking up and pumping "air" the pressure starts to fall and both springs in the by-pass and in the Accusump start to react at the same time...

Placing the Accusump fitting at the oil filter housing will work fine as is where Accusump recommends. .. The Hartech oil pump by-pass housing that has the Accusump fitting welded in is a nice piece for I think $75? , but it is no better than placing the Accusump connection at the oil filter housing. They are both in direct fluid communication to the oil pressure coming out of the oil pump..

The only problem I have with Accusump is that it is "re-active", meaning it re-acts to "air" that has been made it up and through the oil pump.....It is much better to not have the air get to the oil pump to start with, because that AIR does not just dissapear..it will get pumped through the bearings, but the Accusump will keep the "presure up" .and add some oil so that there is not a "long dry spell" in the lubrication flow.

I bought one of the first Accusumps ever made back 40 years ago...Some people are just now finding out about them, especially over the pond, but the guy who originally invented it used to go around and sell them out of his truck at race tracks before he got bought out by a bigger company..

In fact I bought a new small 1 quart model just to test with, it is very small and easy to package in a 996 engine compartment ..but it is still just a clever "band-aid" in my opinion , but band-aids ARE useful...lol

allcool

Got mine, seems to be 1/4" thick. Think thats enough to support a tapped fitting...?

FunWithPaul

Thanks for making that.
I got one from RockAuto.

Can you suggest the manufacturer make a version WITHOUT a bypass?

I drilled out the rivet, and looked at the spring and plastic filter seat, but haven't figured out the "clogged filter" bypass mechanism.
I was hoping to do as the guys here are inquiring about (to keep my IMS chunks in the filter, no matter what!)

Paul

FunWithPaul

Forgive my horrible art skills...

After taking my new UroPart housing apart...
this is my understanding of the oil canister system.

The dark grey is the engine

red and yellow is the filter

thin black is the housing

thick black is the seat that the filter fits onto

the thin grey is the spring under the seat.

From my rudimentary engineering education, in the event of a clogged filter (causing a higher pressure in the outer section of the canister, as dirty oil is on the outside)
I would guess the filter could only be pushed DOWN, separating at the top from engine the oil return sleeve, allowing unfiltered oil to bypass the filter paper
(the blue arrow)

Replacing the spring with a rigid cylinder (of the same dimensions) would turn this into a no-bypass canister.

What do you think?

EDIT:
My assumption was wrong!

I will leave the pic here with red X's over the incorrect parts (so you can see my wonderful artwork), but it is NOT how the bypass works