allcool

Believe your understanding of the bypass mechanism is correct.

But.... The spring compresses slightly when installing the filter to keep a slight pressure on filter for a tight leak free seal on top. So not sure if replacing it with a solid piece would be wise.

Mike Murphy

Interesting. I would have thought that the bypass spring itself includes a valve that lets in oil from the bottom of the canister through to the inside.

If oil bypass happens at the top, that’s better because any heavier debris at the bottom might stay there at the bottom.

Porschetech3

No, thats not how the by-pass works..The filter doesn't move, when the filter is stopped up or the flow through the filter is not sufficient to keep the by-pass closed, the poppet valve in the bottom will raise up and allow the oil to come up from the bottom into the center of the filter thereby by-passing the filter media..

No need to drill the rivet out. Just take a long stout hook and reach down under the plastic valve and pop it out of its holder......

You then just turn it upside down and fill the "cup" with high temp epoxy to eliminate the by-pass..

Note:: yes indeed you could machine a solid puck of aluminum instead of filling the cup with epoxy ..

I just got mine also and it is very impressive for $36 bucks. It appears to be Sand Cast Aluminum with nice machining and very robust , there is over a pound of Aluminum in it..( yes I weighed it on mailing scales)..

Yes I think it is plenty thick enough to drill and tap any fitting you want into it...( but you MUST index/match it to the case first and mark the clock position)

tommelton

Don't forget it still has to spin off...hopefully there is room for the fitting to stay in the housing and spin around - otherwise you will be removing the fitting with every oil change. And if doing that - you can likely expect quick wear and tear on the threads.

-Tom

URO Support

Definitely let a potential welder know that these are 7031 aluminum. https://www.thefabricator.com/thewel...minum-castings

FunWithPaul

Thank you Skip!

I had it all wrong.

I thought the black plastic seat moved on the spring... NOPE!

Here is what I think I just figured out (please correct me if I am wrong)

The black plastic seat is connected to the bottom of the canister.
The metal disc/cup/poppet is riveted to the U-shaped metal bracket, but outside of the black plastic seat.
The poppet is pressed upwards from under the black plastic seat by the oil pressure.
The spring is resisting that motion (the spring is resting against the underside of the black seat)

If the oil pressure exceeds the spring force, the poppet moves upward, allowing the oil (and anything else) from the bottom of the canister into the clean oil circuit.

Here are some pics, I hope they will help it make sense.


Looking inside the canister with the bypass device removed




The black plastic seat that clips into those curved areas in the canister
(sorry it is a little out of focus, you will see the detail better later)






Here is the plastic seat and bypass device disassembled





The poppet (the silver cup) gets riveted to the metal U-bracket,
then there is about 5mm of spring travel, and the poppet can move upwards.




Here it is assembled in a plastic canister








To make a non-bypass canister, I am going to fill the lower edges of the plastic seat with epoxy, and then insert a metal disc (slightly smaller than the cup you see here) to prevent the epoxy from fracturing and entering the clean oil circuit.





Use a 1 3/16" socket to reinstall the plastic seat.





Here you can see the detail of the plastic seat (that clips into the curved brackets molded/machined into the bottom of the canister.
Give it a firm tap.




I suppose this would be easy to do with an original plastic canister too.

I hope this helps you,

What do you think?

Paul

FunWithPaul

The problem with drilling into it, is that your feed line will be getting dirty oil... (the only clean oil is inside the paper filter...)

FunWithPaul

Hey @Europarts

If you can just make a version with a solid (no hole) seat, and eliminate the bypass device, this would be a non-bypass filter canister!

Porschetech3

@URO Support thank for confirming the alloy of the aluminum !!

@FunWithPaul Yes , Now you have it right...

Here is some pics with captions on the "un-by-passed" version..


weight 1LB 0.40 oz

made a quick hook tool to pop the by-pass valve out from 1/4" x 1/8" stainless steel strip I had laying on the work table

by-pass "cup" filled with epoxy rated to 500*F

complete by-pass valve

by-pass valve side view

sealed by-pass valve re-installed in Aluminum housing... I put a little epoxy on the bosses to make sure by-pass valve doesn't get removed when removing the filter

I had to "drive" the by-pass valve back into the retainer, it was a tight fit and no worries that it will EVER come out again !!

Iv'e noticed since working with a lot of different epoxies that the longer the handling and full cure time the higher the temperature rating..." quick cure" epoxies don't have the higher temperature ratings of the 4-6 hour handling time with 24 hour full cure times epoxies ...

Porschetech3

Are you worried that using that oil will damage a pressure/temp sensor ? Any oil leaving there going to a vital/$$$ part will get filtered...( If the by-pass is disabled)

Also FWIW : the Hartech Accusump System uses the "pre-filter" oil for the Accusump System ...

LeonardMot

I don't think it would be a good idea in the OE canister type filter. Just my two cents...

Porschetech3

@LeonardMot That's a lazy negative thought . I disliked the location of the by-pass valve in the OE plastic housing so much I have I disabled it on Sally over two decades ago ...All the LN spin-on adapters/filters are non-by-pass...IF the by-pass were located in the TOP of the canister I wouldn't bother...

I like the thick Aluminum Housing because with a little work it makes a nice package and place to add some Sensors to motor pressure/temp and even add an Accusump if desired ...