porsche0nut

Awesome updates, and great pictures!

That's too bad about the rocker arms.... Is the machine shop going to cover the cost of new ones from Brent? They should.... Which shop was it?

Jonathon Rolstin

Hey Jonathan, thanks.

I am hoping they will otherwise... (well either way...) I will not be returning there.

$30 cash for a good used one, I'm happy, and I test-drove an 05 Cayenne S with my fiance too.

Jonathon Rolstin

Hey guys, I have had some trouble getting exhaust studs out since some of mine were broken originally. 5/6 came out without any trouble... 6 is a disaster.. see the pics.

These came out no problem...



Empty stud hole looks nice...



However this one is still full ...



More progress slowly drilling out free-handed...



Test fitting SSIs to help cheer me up



Going to look good when it's done at least!



FWIW I used a propance torch and a stud extractor at first and had no luck on this one in particular. I kept resurfacing the stud with my angle grinder until I finally ran out of real-estate and decided to go down the drilling path.

Any advice appreciated as usual.

Cheers

Richard930

Hi - just a small observation, but the studs for your sump plate are too far in and it's likely not torqued down enough. I too had a leaky stock sump plate and rather than just put in new gaskets, sprung for the nice billet machined aluminum Mainely plate (which is pretty cool).

Looks great, but the studs they provide are not really long enough. If you install them all the way in they don't really leave enough threads for the nylock nuts to properly torque everything down. So, if the engine is still upside down, I would loosen the nuts and back out the studs, locktite them and then tighten the nuts so it's all good and tight.

I installed the Mainely plate as yours looks last summer, and over the winter had a good half litre of oil leak out. Much easier to deal with now for you than when everything is back in the car and you have to work upside down! I'm sure you don't need to ask how I know!!

Good to see you working on it yourself, these cars are a breeze to work on if you've got the interest and some very basic skills

Jonathon Rolstin

Thanks Richard, I noticed that too, but since I was able to reach the torque value and saw the threads were onto the nylon I didn't think anything of it... I think I will do what you suggested though just to be safe - thanks for the tip!

Richard930

No problem - I did exactly the same including torquing to proper specs.

I've saved tons of time and $$ss learning from others' experience on Rennlist and PP - just doing my part to share the knowledge

pureham

Nice work. Your thread is an inspiration. I'm getting ready to remove my 3.0 also. Are you not going to change the main seal (flywheel side) even though it's not leaking? You know one of those "while you're in there" fixes. I ask beacause that's the reason I'm pullimg my engine, and now that you mention it, it could be the transmission seal not the engine seal. Thanks

porsche0nut

Looks like fun!

Do you have a left hand tap? You could thread the drilled-out hole in the 6th stud and screw in a left-hand screw, and by tightening that screw you are loosening the stud.

We had to do this on our FSAE team to get broken studs out once... it wasn't easy and depends on how much stud material you have to work with.

Question: what are the holes in the bottom of the heat exchangers for (2 on one, 3 on the other)?

I love those SSI's... definitely an upgrade in my future!

porsche0nut

Oh ok good, I was thinking some bigger money was at stake.

How did she like the Cayenne S? Great truck... drives like a sportscar, and probably faster than ours!

theiceman

Well I guess sometimes ignorance is bliss. You are very brave removing studs that weren't broken. You should Never try to remove studs free hand as the risk of destroying the head is huge. You should get a stromski kit that uses a guide and steadily increasing size of guide and drill until you can pick the bits out without ever touching the head. I would stop NOW if you haven't damaged the threads in the head already.

There are in fact 12 studs so I hope all the others are intact. The job you are doing is the highest risk job on the whole car. Be
very carefull

theiceman

Btw jonatbon those holes are so you can put a long hex driver through to either tighten or loosen the nuts on the studs. Otherwise they would be impossible to get to with the exchanger in place

theiceman

If what richard says is true and you want to use the same studs you should measure the thickness of the plate and of the nut and leave this much extended when you locktite in the studs.. Plus a little for the gaskets

Blue needs tools to remove
Red needs heat to remove

I never used red but may consider it on this application

Imo000

There isn't enough materialleft to do this. The screw will expand the remaining stud and make it even harder to remove.

Christien

When I installed my early exhaust on my 3.0L transplant, I snapped two studs. I tried extracting, with both heat and days of soaking in PB blaster, no luck. I ended up tapping them both and using a larger size stud. In the end, it worked fine. But if I'm lucky I'll never have to remove or install an exhaust system again. Hands down my least favourite job I've ever done on my car.

Jonathon Rolstin

Thanks for all of the advice and comments guys. I will NOT be removing any studs that are not already broken. There were 6 broken studs to begin with. 5 came out with a breeze, the 6th (of course) had to be seized in there...

Havn't had a chance to work on it since my last update as I had a huge project due for school today. My exam isn't assigned until this Sunday (48 hour exam) so I have some time until then to get to work on it (plus prep two Formula 1200s for Shannonville Spring Fling in two weeks... yikes).