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Mark - you realize that your early apex is exactly the opposite of what every driving school teaches? Early apexing leads to running out of road at the exit. In addition since the car has to turn in sooner, there is less time for safe braking in a straight line.
When do I early apex? When we have our traditional "no brakes race" during instructor practice, if I realize I am too hot into the corner, I will turn in early, counter steer and slide the car to scrub off speed. Hardly the fast way into a corner but better than being dsq'd for using my brakes. It is not what I would want to teach a novice.
The no brakes race is an exercise on Instructor Training Day - the idea is to lap as quickly as possible without ever using your brakes. Drivers are highly competitive. It reminds us all how well our cars can corner when unaffected by braking forces, anticipation of the terrain and upcoming turns. A great exercise!
Now go back to self promotion and your phony resume' .
Dave.. have a little respect here. you are not a racer, yet you are on a racing forum.. This is a Porsche racing discussion board. you don't race.... you don't even own a Porsche... just give it a rest would you !!?
Originally Posted by mark kibort
and that's where I come in Dave..
your contradictions about techniques during a brake failure, allowing shufflesteering, or now to shift a car into and out of a turn. not to mention your complete lack of mechanical /physics knowledge can get someone killed.... and is not the fast way or safest way around the track. most all of us , as racers know this, but for some reason, you think your lack of experience in those critical areas can advise new and seasoned racers to the contrary.
so, If you read my advice.. understand it.... you will see that it's all about being safer and being more in control at all times on the track... regardless of circumstance!
and this is the point ive been trying to make with him for years... at least with the "other coach" there is a level of respect and opinion.
Up yours, cupcake.
This has gone far enough.
Respect is EARNED, son.
You, on the other hand, have spent the past few weeks crapping up EVERY thread here.
You have repeatedly and smugly derided folks here like Matt Muller and others who are MULTIPLE race and championship winners and track record holders. You have repeatedly and condescendingly derided and questioned the decades of experience and expertise of people here MUCH more knowledgeable than you...people like Krause and Olsen and me who have been making 100% of their nice livings entirely from motorsports. Your job history, on the other hand...
You deride and attack and demean ANYONE here who disagrees with you, even though you're repeatedly and convincingly proved wrong in every thread you have crapped up. Thankfully, Peter's clients (many National Champions and record holders) and my clients (who at last count include a dozen and a half PCA National Champions, as well as dozens of track record holders) are smart enough to realize the folly of your words.
You want to be "respected"? Trying showing some to others, instead of being a low-rent antagonistic douchebag.
I am done with you. Like for hundreds of other people here, you are now on Ignore for me.
All this nonsense isn't real. Mark is trolling and having a seriously good laugh at our expense. Look at the context more broadly. In the last month he has stated:
1) you don't need to use a torque wrench for your lug nuts for a racecar
2) bump stops have no impact on roll couple
3) 2nd gear is faster than 3rd gear in a 3rd gear turn
4) beginners should be taught how to early apex because it is safer
This stuff isn't just a little off target. He's intentionally trying to test just how ludicrously inaccurate he can get and still get an emotional reaction.
Wikipedia: a troll is a person who sows discord on the Internet by starting arguments or upsetting people, by posting inflammatory, extraneous, or off-topic messages in an online community (such as a newsgroup, forum, chat room, or blog) with the deliberate intent of provoking readers into an emotional response or of otherwise disrupting normal on-topic discussion, often for their own amusement.
I think the word Kirbot will make it to the dictionary next year. I've found many uses for the word already - as a verb, adjective, and in conjuction with things I would not approve. AND to disrespect such respected individuals in the driving community. A shame. Kirboted.
So, for the track, I see 95ft/lbs is recommended for lug nuts...
Is that level safe for the aluminum nuts also?
My lug nuts, which were the alloy one, fused to my wheel studs over the winter. I was pretty surprised. We had a lot of rain in the fall, and corrosion occurred. Getting them off was a chore, as an impact wrench barely did it.
So, now per some other threads, I have antiseize on there...
Any torque adjustment needed, as they are now "wet" not dry?
So, for the track, I see 95ft/lbs is recommended for lug nuts...
Is that level safe for the aluminum nuts also?
My lug nuts, which were the alloy one, fused to my wheel studs over the winter. I was pretty surprised. We had a lot of rain in the fall, and corrosion occurred. Getting them off was a chore, as an impact wrench barely did it.
So, now per some other threads, I have antiseize on there...
Any torque adjustment needed, as they are now "wet" not dry?
Bo
Most of the porsche lugnuts are aluminum. 95lb-ft is the recomended torque level. the "fused" problem is real , and can be for steel on steel studs or aluminum on steel studs. it's not recommended to run any antisieze on the threads. I hand tighten and hand loosen, as i feel over many cycles its easier on the threads . sometimes a light coating of wheel bearing grease (usually just the amount that seems to be present over a wheel bearing lube job on the studs) is enough to ward off rust. (just wiping the studs clean is enough to leave enough there to lubricate and protect) most of the sticking is generally the wheel bearing nut and its surface pressing on the wheel. dissimilar metals can corrode and cause higher breaking torque force requirements. sometimes more than you would think. 200lb-ft +
frequent changing of the wheels on race /DE days will solve most issues.
04-27-2016, 01:35 PM
