Slakker

Took my recently purchased '99 C2 to an HPDE at Hallet raceway yesterday. Has to be the single funnest thing I have ever done. I'm hooked. And I came away loving my car even more. I was running on a relatively new set of pilot super sports, with new EBC Red Stuff pads and fresh Motul600. The rotors appear to be OEM with no cracks but the rear rotors are 1.5mm under spec while the fronts are a couple mm over spec.

The day was 7 -15 minute sessions but by session 5, my rotors were heating up after a couple of laps and giving horrible vibration. I had to cut sessions 5 and 6 short and then just skipped session 7.

Will simply replacing the rotors with Sebco slotted rotors solve this issue or should I be looking at a two piece rotor of some sort? Brake fade was not an issue yesterday. Thanks for any suggestions.

ELange0322

I got a serious rotor / braking vibration in the rear of my '03 C2 at the beginning of last year after just having the rotors replaced. Didn't start until my 3rd or 4th track day. Turned out that the slotted rotor I got as a replacement was slightly smaller in the inside of the rotor than the cross drilled rotors I took off, and the parking brake was rubbing. No idea when I only felt that when I was under braking (and wasn't just me...I had a pro coach with me too). At first had thought that I warped the rotor too. Not saying this is your problem, but something else to be considered. Good luck finding and resolving your vibration and great to hear that you are tracking and loving it. Best thing I've ever done (hope my wife and kids don't read this...)

Frank 993 C4S

If you're just starting out, stick with OEM rotors and pads and upgraded brake fluid. OEM rotors and pads do remarkably well on the track and don't compromise street driving. What was the condition of your pads? If you are tracking, don't let them wear beyond 50% before replacing them.

If you have drilled rotors, blow out the holes frequently as they tend to clog. If your restrictors are below minimum, replace them.

It's a slippery slope - there is tons of money to be spent on tracking your car as you gain experience.

Slakker

New EBC Red Stuff pads broken in and bedded per their instructions. Could they have added to the problem?

Yes, the slope is slippery and I'm sledding down it with a great big smile!

Frank 993 C4S

No idea - pad thickness % left at the end?

Slakker

70% (12 out of 17mm)

Philip944

I had a similar issue with stock rotors and pfc08's. Despite proper bedding you can still develop uneven pad deposits that can lead to vibration. I have no experience with your pads but i've run into a similar issue and the timing seems to be similar. Mine got worse as the day went on as well.

Slakker

How'd you solve it?

Coochas

My old Boxster had a pad deposition problem the first time I used PFC. It had wicked vibration. I cured it by simply doing repetitive hard stops. I never had the problem again and continued to use the same pads for years.

Philip944

I know it sounds crazy but my mechanic put the rotors on a lathe and removed the deposits. He seems to be a bit of a Macgyver of mechanics. It worked.

I've also read somewhere to buy lower end highly abrasive pads and street drive them for a bit to remove the deposits then install your track pads and rebed. I believe they referred to some type of Hawk pads for use in this method.

After that one event I've never had any further problems even with running OEM rotors for three seasons. Using Sebro slotted up front now and they seem to hold up great and I don't have to clean out the cross drilled holes.

noturavgm

Only track experience I've had with EBC was driving around at 9pm with my buddy trying to scrounge replacement pads for his '11 Mustang after his EBCs bit the dust... There are so many other good options out there. PFC, CL, Hawk, Carbotech, etc etc.

If you are new to the track you are probably braking too light for too long and putting excessive heat into the system. Probably exceeding MOT for the EBCs you have installed. Once you get some non-homogeneous pad transfer, things just get worse as the high spot hits the pads more and more.

New rotors, maybe better pads, bed the crap out of them before hitting the track.

JayG

IIRC, the rotors have a total of 2 mm thickness between new and worn out
Unless I misunderstand what you wrote, at 1.5 mm wear, they are basically toast and how can you be thicker than new???

EBC Red is a high performance street pad. Try EBC Yellow for a streetable track pad. They do dust more than the Red's, but have a higher heat range and will last longer on the track. I just did a 3 day track weekend using YellowStuff and they performed great, no fade and minimal wear

For rotors, look at the Meyle rotors. You can find them on ebay for around $85 a pair for the front and $75 a pair for the rear. You don't need to spend hundreds of $$$ for rotors

Slakker

Yes, rears are toast and front are like new. Good info on the yellows and rotors. Thanks.

noturavgm

More good options other than EBC. Read up. The Yellowstuff took exactly 3500 street miles and 3 track days, not events...days, on my friends Mustang before they were toast. We couldn't believe it.

Also recommend Centric (Stoptech parent company) blanks on RockAuto.

mark kibort

you can have a warping that actually happens only at the track when the lugs are tighten by the monkeys at the shop..if the torque is not even, it can warp the rotor. i had this happen once. retorqued, got the brakes hot again and the problem was gone.
ive had good experience with EBC, but they are a bitch to bed right. a lot of hard 100 to 60mph slow downs. then, they were great. street and track. (aston martin)