"E" and "D" class?
#167
Burning Brakes
I took it out to a DE yesterday to see if we could check a few more things off on the list.
There's some overheating going on at full tilt (running around 225-230), but it is Florida and it's more or less summer here now. We suspect the mesh pattern over the cooler is too "tight" so I guess the next step to put a more open mesh over the cooler, and if that doesn't work then add another cooler. It was every bit of low 90's out.
We had a throttle stick as well. That was fun with the car holding 5k at idle Turns out is was binding on some sheet metal in the transmission tunnel. Cleared that up and lubed the cable, all good.
Back to the brakes. The new pads were already bedded in last weekend, and the rotors are fresh. When the car was delivered the master cylinder was blown and leaking, so we replaced it with whatever was in there originally.
Power off, no pedal pressure whatsoever. Normal with the booster off the way I understand it.
Power on and parked, pedal travels about 3 inches before you meet any significant pedal pressure.
Driving in the paddock, same as parked. Pedals travels about 3 inches or so before engaging any real firmness. When driving it in the paddock, the car was slowing ever so slightly in that first 3 inches, but doesn't begin to stop hard till you get past those 3 inches into hard pressure.
On track, same as above. It's consistent. Stops well and brakes fine. You just have get used to the pedal dropping so much to get pressure and then it works like a normal brake system.
I'm trying to figure out if this is just the way it is... Or if this is something we can make more "normal"?
There's some overheating going on at full tilt (running around 225-230), but it is Florida and it's more or less summer here now. We suspect the mesh pattern over the cooler is too "tight" so I guess the next step to put a more open mesh over the cooler, and if that doesn't work then add another cooler. It was every bit of low 90's out.
We had a throttle stick as well. That was fun with the car holding 5k at idle Turns out is was binding on some sheet metal in the transmission tunnel. Cleared that up and lubed the cable, all good.
Back to the brakes. The new pads were already bedded in last weekend, and the rotors are fresh. When the car was delivered the master cylinder was blown and leaking, so we replaced it with whatever was in there originally.
Power off, no pedal pressure whatsoever. Normal with the booster off the way I understand it.
Power on and parked, pedal travels about 3 inches before you meet any significant pedal pressure.
Driving in the paddock, same as parked. Pedals travels about 3 inches or so before engaging any real firmness. When driving it in the paddock, the car was slowing ever so slightly in that first 3 inches, but doesn't begin to stop hard till you get past those 3 inches into hard pressure.
On track, same as above. It's consistent. Stops well and brakes fine. You just have get used to the pedal dropping so much to get pressure and then it works like a normal brake system.
I'm trying to figure out if this is just the way it is... Or if this is something we can make more "normal"?
#168
Rennlist Member
#169
Rennlist Member
Any idea what headers you put on there? They're not factory but nobody can tell whose they are?
#173
Rennlist Member
#178
Rennlist Member
Buckley published a dyno of his Euro SC motor with his headers making 210. He wanted to show the added hp gained from his really nice stainless header system. Do you have a new Buckley motor with Buckley headers?
#179
Burning Brakes
#180
Burning Brakes