More than likely, if there isn't a component problem(like a bad MC) it's probably due to to much free play in the pedal cluster adjustment.

You can adjust the brake pedal height at the cluster to make it easier to heal/toe.

If you adjust it too low, you will have to much "free play" in the pedal before you actuate the master cylinder.



You can have a great handling T-bar 911 without breaking the bank.

The majority of racers don't need/ can't take advantage of adjustable shocks or crazy big T-bars.

My old 79 SC that I raced in E prep and F prep had a pretty basic suspension that was very effective.

23 mm front T-bars(most guys like 24 mm, I prefer a neutral to over steering car)
33 mm rear T-bars

Properly sized front A-arm poly bushings

Smart Racing Front Swaybar

Smart Racing Camber plates/ strut bar

Steering rack spacers

Rear Elephant Poly bronze Spring plate bushings

Elephant quick change spring plates

Smart Racing rear Swaybar

Elephant Von shocks(rebaged Bilsteins)

Front non adjustable strut inserts
Rear rebound adjustable shocks


That was a great handling car, it took me awhile to get my 964 to feel as good as my the 79 did.

Still prefer the steering on the 79... the ABS cars have different geometry(neg. scrub radius),and don't have the same feel.

 

Charlie Bars were made by Wrightwood racing.

Charlie Spira is the owner.

They were a higher quality alternative to the more common Weltmeister sways back in the day.

Pretty sure they are no longer madea nd you can't get parts for them but not 100%.

Might be worth selling them to someone as spares and putting on Smart Racing or Tarett's, if you going to doing a lot of racing. Much easier to get spares for/find someone at the track with parts, if you have a problem.

 

What about the emergency brake? Is it legal to ditch it and the whole assembly that goes with it?

 

It doesn't specifically state that they can be removed, but it has never been a problem.

Probably something that should be clarified in the rule book.

I know lot of cars don't have them, including mine.

 

How do you adjust the charlie bar? My rear bar is black and has two holes. Doesn't look what's in the picture.

 

Cool. E-brake is coming out for sure then when we put legal calipers back on.

 

I adjusted my post, and am looking into it for an "official" answer.

 

Thanks. Let me know what you find out.

 

Carrera brakes on an E class Euro SC? Are you sure? Take a picture and post it so we can confirm.

 

You sure it's not a stock bar with an extra hole drilled in it?

 

That car is a stock 1970 911S with old school BFG R1s, circa 1994... I think it demonstrates the fundamental dynamics of a 911.

I don't think PCA Stock rules allow adjustment of front camber, but I could be wrong.

 

Bingo. That's exactly what my bar looks like. Except with a second hole drilled right next to the first hole. I guess that's one way to make an adjustable sway bar Looks like I need to go bar shopping now. My cheap E class car is starting to add up



The car lives in Orlando (about 2 hours away) so I can't take pics. But I spoke with the shop owner and he confirmed it has Carrera brakes on it. One of the clues was that the rotors that came on the car were shot and he just replaced them with Carrera rotors He is an HSR/SVRA guy and assumed the caliper change was ok because the Carrera rotors last much longer than SC rotors. I whipped out the 2015 rule book and instructed him to order new calipers that were compliant. Sigh....

 

2. Suspension
F. Bolt-in devices (e.g. camber plates) that allow for camber adjustment at the top of the shock are allowed. Machining of the shock tower is not permitted. Shock dust covers may be removed.

 

Car has been painted a few times in it's life. lol
Car is either a euro 1980SC or a 1982SC non sunroof american car with Euro upgraded motor.
Waiting to find out the history...

 

That picture shows the type of rear bar that was on the car when I owned it. I think the mystery is starting to unravel.