Does your cool shirt inlet pipe dribble into the cooler like this?
#76
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When I talked to Shafer they told me that the alcohol will not kill the fungus that grows inside the system. They were working on a solution and finally found it. I have no idea of the exact products they are using. Bleach will work to kill the fungus but will deteriorate the fitting, tubes, rubber etc. It is OK to flush with but get it all out of the system. I don't remember how much the new solution is but I'm sure a call to Shafer will solve that.
Mike
Mike
#77
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Mike, is it odd that the manufacturer suggested alcohol be used once a month to clean the system but now suggests its proprietary cleaning solution be used every time the Cool Shirt is used?
#78
Nordschleife Master
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When I talked to Shafer they told me that the alcohol will not kill the fungus that grows inside the system. They were working on a solution and finally found it. I have no idea of the exact products they are using. Bleach will work to kill the fungus but will deteriorate the fitting, tubes, rubber etc. It is OK to flush with but get it all out of the system. I don't remember how much the new solution is but I'm sure a call to Shafer will solve that.
Mike
Mike
#80
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The cleaning solution is a new product for Shafer and this will replace the alcohol as Shafer's recommendation. Maybe someone could ask a rep from Shafer to jump in here and address some of these issues.
Mike
Mike
#81
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Just tried out the new pump in my Cool Shirt and, WTF, it is no better than the photo in my first post in this thread. ![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
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https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...27&postcount=1
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...27&postcount=1
#82
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I'm thinking the new clean out fluid is something similiar to what they put into waterbeds to prevent fungus as well.
Also be sure that the lines are not crimped anywhere (check shirt and/or under harness when buckled in) restricting flow, I have found this a few times.
Also be sure that the lines are not crimped anywhere (check shirt and/or under harness when buckled in) restricting flow, I have found this a few times.
#83
NASA Racer
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Mark...mine turned out to have the wiring backwards. Works fine now. The wires got crossed with the quick disconnect. I know you said you checked this, but you might want to rewire it just to be safe.
#86
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Other than the shirt (and maybe the flex lines) itself I agree, source a cooler, a pump, and go from there.
I just wrote to both companies mentioned explaining the current situation and the general design of the system. I'm thinking of trying the Attwood pump but whenever I try and save a few bucks it ends up costing me double....![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
I just wrote to both companies mentioned explaining the current situation and the general design of the system. I'm thinking of trying the Attwood pump but whenever I try and save a few bucks it ends up costing me double....
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Here's my parts list:
8 Qt Cooler $18
360gph WM Bilge Pump $18
25w rheostat $29
RC Battery Connectors $5
Dry Disconnects (4 pairs) $65 (~$8ea) (Need to find a cheaper place for disconnects)
Shirt Hoses
Cooler to Shirt Hoses
Cooler to Shirt Hose Insulation
The disconnects are the most expensive part of the cooler. If anyone knows where to find something compatible cheaper, please let us know.
-Scott
Last edited by sbarton; 09-02-2008 at 04:16 PM.
#87
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DIY Cool Suit Writeup
Here's my parts list:
8 Qt Cooler $18
360gph WM Bilge Pump $18
25w rheostat $29
RC Battery Connectors $5
Dry Disconnects (4 pairs) $65 (~$8ea) (Need to find a cheaper place for disconnects)
Shirt Hoses
Cooler to Shirt Hoses
Cooler to Shirt Hose Insulation
The disconnects are the most expensive part of the cooler. If anyone knows where to find something compatible cheaper, please let us know.
-Scott
Here's my parts list:
8 Qt Cooler $18
360gph WM Bilge Pump $18
25w rheostat $29
RC Battery Connectors $5
Dry Disconnects (4 pairs) $65 (~$8ea) (Need to find a cheaper place for disconnects)
Shirt Hoses
Cooler to Shirt Hoses
Cooler to Shirt Hose Insulation
The disconnects are the most expensive part of the cooler. If anyone knows where to find something compatible cheaper, please let us know.
-Scott
FWIW, the standard retail coolers suffer from a slosh leakage problem. They are not even lightly sealed around the lid, and they dump water when cornering until they are sufficiently emptied to prevent further spillage. The early cool shirt coolers were the same, and everyone had the same problem. A couple of years ago, Cool Shirt came out with coolers that have nicely sealed lids with positive locks. These are the only coolers I know that solve the slosh problem, but I couldn't find a source aside from the Chinese manufacturer who only sells in LCL lots.
#88
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The problem with mine was I has the wires reversed as well and the flow was about like yours. Now that I have it right it is working just as they say it should. I blew air thru the system to check it as well and used a 2nd shirt to make sure that was not the problem.
Mike
Mike
#89
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The problem with mine was I has the wires reversed as well and the flow was about like yours. Now that I have it right it is working just as they say it should. I blew air thru the system to check it as well and used a 2nd shirt to make sure that was not the problem.
Mike
Mike
Signed,
Not A Happy Camper
#90
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Mark did you measure the flow, yours looks like mine. All this talk about flow, I went and bought a bigger pump to try, guess what? flow was the same, with or without the suit. (I have spare plugs). It looks like the limitation is the connections.